How many of you guys have simply ordered the software, loaded it and ran it as it came in the mail, as opposed to going to the dyno and having Torrie adjust?
How many of you guys have simply ordered the software, loaded it and ran it as it came in the mail, as opposed to going to the dyno and having Torrie adjust?
I recently purchased the hp tuner and tune from Torrie, he went into my lap top from Florida , built the custom tune and I simply plugged into my car saved the stock file and loaded the custom tune into the car, he never adjusted on the dyno, I gained 30 to the wheels
If you don't use a dyno (or can be done on the street street) to tune HPT to your specific car, you are using a generic "one tune fits all" calibration. This is exactly what you get when you use the Arrow PCM but w/o the improved throttle response and a less sensitive knock control currently available on the Arrow PCM only. You can turn the knock sensor completely off with HPT but that is somewhat dangerous IMO
The advantage to using HPT is that you can tune and adjust the calibration to your specific car.
Last edited by TooBlue; 08-05-2015 at 08:50 AM.
Torrie was awesome. Answered emails instantly !
Its sucks the viper does not come with built in wide band. I did e-tune and it woke the car up. My butt dyno says it picked up about 30HP.
It is easy to install a wb. The bung is an option on Balengers.
For those that dyno tune, the typical tail pipe sniffer that dyno shops use read at least 1/2 point lean, that is on a G5. If the dyno is a dyno jet and they use a dyno jet brand wb system, the variance could be more than 1/2 point.
Last edited by Jack B; 08-05-2015 at 12:21 PM.
You do not have to remove the tune to pass inspection, correct?
Jack, I can't remember...are you using an LM-2 or LC-2 (or other)? How did you route the cables to get them into the cabin?
Depends on how it was tuned...as long as all of the emissions codes are left in place like they are in the stock calibration, you'll be able to pass a plug-in emissions test. I've left all of my trouble codes and emissions monitors in place since my car is otherwise stock.
I'd still go with the arrow controller. It's bullet proof, you can run whatever exhaust you want and it can be "updated" if you run the heads, cams or even supercharger setup.
Don't trust "tuners".
Using the LC2, I have a logger in the car, so I converted the LC2 output to 0-5 and brought in the cable under the door seal on the drivers side.
TooBlue
Just curious can't the HPT also be turn down or "sensitive knock control" turn down? in term of commanding how much timing is pulled 0 to what ever degrees you wish when knock is detected? It's the same sensor use whether you us the Arrow PCM or the HP tuner. Just wondering out loud.
Yea, don't trust tuners!!!I'd still go with the arrow controller. It's bullet proof, you can run whatever exhaust you want and it can be "updated" if you run the heads, cams or even supercharger setup.
Don't trust "tuners".
No, there is no sensitivity turn down other than adjusting how much timing is removed when a knock event occurs.Just curious can't the HPT also be turn down or "sensitive knock control" turn down? in term of commanding how much timing is pulled 0 to what ever degrees you wish when knock is detected? It's the same sensor use whether you us the Arrow PCM or the HP tuner. Just wondering out loud.
Steve, I'm not Jack but I put a small hole and grommet in the firewall behind the glovebox when I need to route cables into the engine bay. You can have someone tap on the area from the engine side and you can crawl in there (upside down) and hear/feel exactly where they are tapping and drill from there. Also, if you need to route cables/wires on the drivers side, then there is already a nice grommet where the factory harness comes through. You can piggy back through that relatively easily.Jack, I can't remember...are you using an LM-2 or LC-2 (or other)? How did you route the cables to get them into the cabin?
Last edited by EdwardETraylorIII; 08-06-2015 at 09:45 AM.
No, Sir. Not at all.Does one side (passenger vs. driver) tend to run leaner than the other? On my old car (LS1 Camaro), the driver's side tended to run lean, so that's where I had the wideband. Just curious.
If I remember correctly, you can either turn the knock control completely off or on. You weren't able to adjust the level of knock control at the time we tuned my car with HPT. We did disable the knock control on the dyno and ran the car to about 5000 RPMs. It made a definitive power improvement.
Being a track car and running at a consistently higher RPMs, I was afraid to leave the knock control completely disabled.
I'm not sure which version you were using at the time, but even the early stuff has a table that will allow you to specify how much timing can be pulled, and from where (in terms of airmass vs. RPM) - the stock table allowed KR to pull up to 9° across the board. I changed mine to only be able to pull up to 5° under WOT conditions. Sounds like there are some other tables in development that will likely make their way into production builds soon enough.
Thanks for the correction. We were experimenting with it while dyno tuning with Torrie. We didn't want to mess with Torrie's calibrations too much until I drove the car. I put the car back on the rollers and experimented with turning the knock sensor off. There was a definite improvement without the false knock detection. This was done when the Viper HPT beta was very new and there wasn't a lot of info.
I haven't messed with HPT since. Mainly because there basically wasn't any difference in power output between the Arrow PCM and HPT. I have been running the Arrow ECU mainly because of the much better throttle response. When HPT updates a few items like throttle response, I will go back to HPT because a custom tune would obviously be better than a one tune fits all ECU.
BTW... Thanks STEVEM for letting us know how your various experiments with HPT is working out for you. Your R/D and knowledge of the software is helping us all. Like you have said many times, HPT is just a tool to customize your car to a drivers personal driving habits.
Last edited by TooBlue; 08-07-2015 at 08:16 AM.
There's been a steep learning curve, and I've had to start over with a clean slate at least once already because I modified too many things at one time without fully understanding what the effects were. I've since adopted a strategy of adjusting only one thing at a time and not moving on until I've verified that it did what I wanted it to. It is an extremely time intensive way of doing business, but it has really helped me understand what does what. Once I get some time, I plan to post my thoughts and findings on the HPT Forum under the Dodge section so people can learn from my mistakes and see what I've done.
I also know there's still some development work being done behind the scenes for this platform...I'm not exactly sure what they're working on at the moment, but hopefully they can find a way around the throttle response issues since that seems to be the #1 driver for people stepping away from HPTuners. The software has a lot of potential...the beta release they did back earlier this year unlocked quite a few additional parameters. There are days when I wish I had a dyno in my garage to really figure out what gives you the biggest bang for the buck (especially with the exhaust cam lobe adjustments), so if you find a spare one laying around somewhere, feel free to send it my way.
I have a bunch of custom calibrations that I use on the customer level for tuning the gen4/5 depending on modifications. If someone wants remote dyno tuning that can also be scheduled as well but costs are additional. Link to our HPTuerns systems starting at $999 :
http://www.unleashedtuning.com/programmers-tuning/
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