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  1. #1
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    Lug nut torque spec

    Can't believe I haven't looked this up before i need it but taking off the wheels on my '15 TA2.0 today for a few mods. What are the torque specs when I reinstall the wheels?

    Always took my Gen4 ACR to 90 Ft-lbs

    not it sure if this translates to GenV or not.

    Thanks for the info.

  2. #2
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    We've always torque ours 100 lbs.

  3. #3
    From 2015 Service Manual:

    INSTALLATION

    WARNING:
    Installing wheels without good metal-to-metal contact with the mounting surface could cause loosening of the wheel mounting (lug) nuts. This could adversely affect the safety and handling of the vehicle.

    1.Clean the wheel mounting surfaces, removing any build-up of corrosion. It is important to have good metal-to-metal contact between the wheel and vehicle.

    2.Position the tire and wheel assembly on the wheel mounting studs using the hub pilot as a guide. Place and hold the wheel flush up against the mounting surface.

    NOTE: Never use oil or grease on studs or wheel mounting (lug) nuts.

    NOTE: Always use the original (OEM) style wheel mounting (lug) nuts. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design.

    3.Install all six wheel mounting (lug) nuts (1). Do not tighten at this time.

    4.Lower the vehicle.

    5.Tighten the wheel mounting (lug) nuts as follows:

    a.Progressively tighten all wheel mounting (lug) nuts in a star pattern to half the specified torque of 73 N·m (54 ft. lbs.).

    b.Complete the tightening sequence of the wheel mounting (lug) nuts in a star pattern to a final torque of 145 N·m (107 ft. lbs.).

  4. #4
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    92 ft lbs i believe is the spec.

  5. #5
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    I use 100.

  6. #6
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    Spec is 90 street, 100 track.

  7. #7
    I too have heard the 90 street / 100 track... but my source was simply service manual based:

    From the various generation service manuals this is what I find...
    2013-2015 - 54ftlbs mount - 107 ftlbs final
    2008-2010 - 50ftlbs mount - 100 ftlbs final
    2003-2006 - 90ftlbs with a note to progressively tighten to achieve
    1996-2002 - 90ftlbs with a note to progressively tighten to achieve

    Each generation has progressively more power, and better braking, and stickier tires FWIW... and this is what the dealer will do if not directed otherwise.
    Last edited by roadrunner; 07-11-2015 at 12:22 PM.

  8. #8
    If you take your wheels off regularly then 90 is all your really need and you are checking them more often, if you set it and forget it then 100 is piece of mind IMO. One thing, the more you increase the ft/lbs the more you can stretch the stud and eventually all track car studs should be replaced. I also avoid tightening the wheels while the hub and stud are hot at the track, do it when its cool.

  9. #9
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    I've always done mine to 90 ft-lbs.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadrunner View Post
    From 2015 Service Manual:

    INSTALLATION

    WARNING:
    Installing wheels without good metal-to-metal contact with the mounting surface could cause loosening of the wheel mounting (lug) nuts. This could adversely affect the safety and handling of the vehicle.

    1.Clean the wheel mounting surfaces, removing any build-up of corrosion. It is important to have good metal-to-metal contact between the wheel and vehicle.

    2.Position the tire and wheel assembly on the wheel mounting studs using the hub pilot as a guide. Place and hold the wheel flush up against the mounting surface.

    NOTE: Never use oil or grease on studs or wheel mounting (lug) nuts.

    NOTE: Always use the original (OEM) style wheel mounting (lug) nuts. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design.

    3.Install all six wheel mounting (lug) nuts (1). Do not tighten at this time.

    4.Lower the vehicle.

    5.Tighten the wheel mounting (lug) nuts as follows:

    a.Progressively tighten all wheel mounting (lug) nuts in a star pattern to half the specified torque of 73 N·m (54 ft. lbs.).

    b.Complete the tightening sequence of the wheel mounting (lug) nuts in a star pattern to a final torque of 145 N·m (107 ft. lbs.).
    great info, thanks for sharing

  11. #11
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    My manual says 100.

  12. #12
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    Don't you find it confusing that they say:

    A. Do not tighten.

    B. Lower the car.

    C. Now you torque them??

    Quote Originally Posted by roadrunner View Post
    From 2015 Service Manual:

    INSTALLATION

    WARNING:
    Installing wheels without good metal-to-metal contact with the mounting surface could cause loosening of the wheel mounting (lug) nuts. This could adversely affect the safety and handling of the vehicle.

    1.Clean the wheel mounting surfaces, removing any build-up of corrosion. It is important to have good metal-to-metal contact between the wheel and vehicle.

    2.Position the tire and wheel assembly on the wheel mounting studs using the hub pilot as a guide. Place and hold the wheel flush up against the mounting surface.

    NOTE: Never use oil or grease on studs or wheel mounting (lug) nuts.

    NOTE: Always use the original (OEM) style wheel mounting (lug) nuts. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design.

    3.Install all six wheel mounting (lug) nuts (1). Do not tighten at this time.

    4.Lower the vehicle.

    5.Tighten the wheel mounting (lug) nuts as follows:

    a.Progressively tighten all wheel mounting (lug) nuts in a star pattern to half the specified torque of 73 N·m (54 ft. lbs.).

    b.Complete the tightening sequence of the wheel mounting (lug) nuts in a star pattern to a final torque of 145 N·m (107 ft. lbs.).

  13. #13
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    Thanks everyone, ton of info and all really good. My ACR I always torqued to 90 but my wheels were off all the time. Interesting about the service manual for the 5th Gen taking it to 107. I'll start with 100 and check them after a heat cycle cool down. I'll also check my manual and see if a TA has any special torque requirements since it is the larger heavier rotors and bigger pads.

  14. #14
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    Exactly. 100 for the track....take your torque wrench and check them while cool. You should be doing this anyway when "racing" the car. Like Mark said, 90 should be just fine as well as long as you are maintaining it and not setting it and forgetting it.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadrunner View Post
    From 2015 Service Manual:

    INSTALLATION

    WARNING:
    Installing wheels without good metal-to-metal contact with the mounting surface could cause loosening of the wheel mounting (lug) nuts. This could adversely affect the safety and handling of the vehicle.

    1.Clean the wheel mounting surfaces, removing any build-up of corrosion. It is important to have good metal-to-metal contact between the wheel and vehicle.

    2.Position the tire and wheel assembly on the wheel mounting studs using the hub pilot as a guide. Place and hold the wheel flush up against the mounting surface.

    NOTE: Never use oil or grease on studs or wheel mounting (lug) nuts.

    NOTE: Always use the original (OEM) style wheel mounting (lug) nuts. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design.

    3.Install all six wheel mounting (lug) nuts (1). Do not tighten at this time.

    4.Lower the vehicle.

    5.Tighten the wheel mounting (lug) nuts as follows:

    a.Progressively tighten all wheel mounting (lug) nuts in a star pattern to half the specified torque of 73 N·m (54 ft. lbs.).

    b.Complete the tightening sequence of the wheel mounting (lug) nuts in a star pattern to a final torque of 145 N·m (107 ft. lbs.).
    ^^^This is what I read out of my TA 2.0 manual, with the final torque spec at 107 ft. lbs.^^^

  16. #16
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    Appreciate it Viperepiv. I'll click 'em to 107 in the morning.


 

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