I totally agree, I also believe it's about 50hp lost or so.
Because of the hot summer we live in, I have not enjoyed my viper much for the last two months due to the IAT always high, it's crazy hot in here.
Luckily though, I have bought the heat shield and received it, and what a piece ! you can see the commitment and efforts given to a simple part just to be perfect. I've been really busy not to install it but I will come back once it's done. Thanks again guys for the great part you supply.
Does the PCM also take timing out if the coolant temps rise? With the shielding my IATs are fine on the track - 8-9 degrees over ambient, but my coolant temps are too high - 243 degrees.
Yes it does...at 243°, it would be pulling between 6-7° of timing.
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Steve, do you know what temp the stock thermostat opens/closes? It seems that it is around a 190deg. If that is the case, we are often dealing with 1-2 degrees of timing being pulled from this on top of IAT's. Maybe a slightly cooler stat would be a good investment with reprogrammed fans.
I'd guess around 187° or so, but I don't know for sure. My car regularly stays down in the low to mid 180s just cruising around, getting up to 190 or so sitting in traffic. What I don't know is if the ECT and IAT timing tables add together, or if they are a one or the other type of deal - as in, if it is pulling 3 degrees of timing for IATs and your ECTs are creeping up to the point that it would pull 2 degrees, does it pull 5 or 3? I'd have to do some testing to figure that one out...wouldn't be too hard to figure out though.
I actually looked at a lot of thumb screw options (thumb screws were a late add on after pricing was set). At the end of the day the best option for weight, cost, and looks was an anodized aluminum part. The screws more are visible on the Gen IV. Then came the realization that the Gen V has a different length screw. I'll just say I have enough of both to last a while. Anyway, the screws cost about the same as if you ordered a stainless steel one from McMaster but are lighter and look less obvious.
The shields are not anodized first they are just sand blasted and ceramic coated.
In my testing I haven't noticed coolant or oil temp move at all but I can only speak for my car. The design goal was a tight fit around the airbox to reduce the possibility of any side effects.
Even though it will be cooling down in the coming months, I'm thinking I need to go ahead and order one. Is this ordered through your site? Do you have enough on hand to fill an extra order?
Trust me when I say cool weather doesn't make much of a difference...if the radiator fans turn on at any point, that airbox gets blasted and the IATs go up to unacceptable levels. Even with 50° weather back in the spring, I was still seeing IATs in the 80s, which is enough for the IAT timing table to start pulling timing.
Exactly. Even if timing wasn't being pulled you'd have much cooler air in turn generating more power.
For those that missed the testing in February... even at 20 degrees F with snow on the ground IAT without the shield was 86 degrees, more than enough to pull timing at idle.
Feb 2015 Heat Shield Test Results (Deg F).jpgIMG_6025.jpgIMG_6027.jpgIMG_6017.jpg
I tested last night the shield with the Dynamatt insulation and the drain hole plug.
A/C ON, 86 deg. Ambient.
At a traffic light, IAT went as high as 105F (19 deg. over ambient)
Cruising on the hwy at 80 mph, IAT 96F (10 deg. over Ambient)
3rd and 4th gear pull, IAT 93F (7 deg. over ambient)
A/C OFF., 83F ambient temps _ test was done couple hours later.
Cruising at 80 mph , IAT 91F (8 deg over Ambient)
3rd and 4th gear pull, IAT went to 87F, and towards the end of 4th Gear I saw 86F (3-4 deg. over ambient)
A/C off sure makes a couple of deg. difference vs. having it on. Fans not blasting the Air box does keep it cooler.
Arent any of you concerned with the engine hydrolocking if you completely blockoff the drain nipple?
why not just extend it with silicone tubing and route to the bottom of the engine bay?
I wouldn't recommend completely blocking the drain nipple in case of being caught in surprise storms but if you never drive when there is rain and the blockage is removable as needed I don't think there would be an issue.
Extending the drain to the bottom of the engine bay is an interesting idea, would have to look at possible routing paths.
I did open a small 1/8" hole on the bottom of the plug I used to block the opening so it will drain in case it gets water.
Last edited by v10tt; 08-05-2015 at 09:54 AM.
Not unlike any other modification in the engine bay, its very easy to ensure that the tubing doesnt go anywhere near anything hazardous. Im quite surprised that no ones thought of this
If anyone is having issues with the recently sent GenV thumb screws PM or email me. Some were machined out of tolerance apparently and will not thread in. It should be obvious as they won't go in more than a few turns by hand. I've just gone through my inventory and a small percentage are this way. I'll get replacements out as soon as I can, just send the old ones back with the return label. Thanks
Surprise, surprise!
In the mail today, I received two thumb screws and a drain cover for the airbox drain. Was not expecting them at all. Doug, you are amazing, and a class act!
I got the heat shield in the mail today. Not even two full business days after ordering it. Doug, whatever you make next, as long as I need it you can take my money!
I put about 30 miles on it tonight; in this area the outside temp was about 74°F. I left the AC on the entire time. For reference my airbox is covered completely in reflect-a-gold from DEI, with an extra layer on the bottom.
The combination of the foil and heat shield solved the heatsoaked issue completely. It took about 10 miles in traffic to get the IAT to register above 80°F. After 30 minutes it would creep up to 91°F at traffic lights, but drop down into the mid-80's under throttle. When giving it anything above ~50% throttle the temps would drop to the low 80's, thus eliminating any timing adjustments.
The parts look OEM, and are worth every penny. Installation took about 5 minutes with a flat head screwdriver and an Allen key.
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