Intake heat shield installed - impressions

[ViperTony]

My '13 has the nipple but no drain tube attached. I ended up using a drain tube from my GenII air box. Fits nicely.

[RAY W]

Strange, my 13 SRT and 14 TA both have it. Can you post a pic of the bottom of yours? It sounds like it was a mid year 14 change maybe?

Can't really take a picture unless it is off the car. I ordered the part anyway to see if I can silicone it in. A friends 2015 doesn't have the nipple either. Probably used up the left overs on the early 14's.

[RAY W]

Well now I am at a total loss. Another friend sent me a picture of his 2015 with the nipple. Can't tell from the picture but he says it is molded in, not glued. So I guess I'll be creating something for my car.

[LmeaViper]

There isn't a nipple on the 2014-15 air box. Just about a 1/2"-3/4" diameter hole. Part #05038304AA is good for 2008-2013.

My 2013 GTS had an opening in the bottom of the tube...no nipple. However, I am not sure a nipple would fit in my shield?

[timberwolf]

Here is the drain tube being discussed. I wonder if this is something they eliminated for 2014+? It seems like at least a few people did not have one installed on their cars. It can be found online for less than $10.

05038304AA TUBE. Drain



Attachment 11526

Have you considered using an automotive rubber seal on the edge of the shield to form a tighter seal with the hood to further prevent hot air induction? I was thinking of testing that out

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Have you considered using an automotive rubber seal on the edge of the shield to form a tighter seal with the hood to further prevent hot air induction? I was thinking of testing that out

The shield does not seal against the hood as it must accommodate several hoods. I'm not certain if that would help or hurt at the end of the day but worth testing.

[bogdan]

Installed my shield last night. Awesome product!!!

The drain plugs at the bottom of the airbox seem to be random. My 2013 did not have one.

[Steve M]

Installed my shield last night. Awesome product!!!

The drain plugs at the bottom of the airbox seem to be random. My 2013 did not have one.

Man that is odd...wonder why that is?

[bogdan]

Man that is odd...wonder why that is?

Maybe it's one of those things on the production line that two people are supposed to take care of... and one person thinks the other installed it.

[Steve M]

I'll have to look at mine more closely, but the impression I got after a quick glance was that this piece is molded in to the lower section. I could see someone maybe leaving off the rubber boot thingie, but missing entirely would suggest an issue with the molding process. I could be mistaken though...maybe it is a separate piece. I'll have to take another look at the one on my Gen 4.

[ViperGeorge]

I've reached out to SRT for an explanation. I'll let you know if they respond.

[ViperTony]

I'll have to look at mine more closely, but the impression I got after a quick glance was that this piece is molded in to the lower section. I could see someone maybe leaving off the rubber boot thingie, but missing entirely would suggest an issue with the molding process. I could be mistaken though...maybe it is a separate piece. I'll have to take another look at the one on my Gen 4.

If there's no hole in the airbox for water to escape then my concern would be that water accumulates and leads to a hydrolock condition.

[ViperGeorge]

The nipple thing is supposed to be on the bottom of the air box. It is intended to keep water from entering the box from below. Side benefit it also keeps some hot air from entering the box. I should have the parts today and plan on trying to install them this weekend.

[AM.MSCL]

Great product and just some items I observed during my installation of the heat shield last night on my 2014 Gen V GTS.
I do not have red locking tabs for the wire connectors to the MAF sensors that the directions mention.
1 of the factory thumb screws did not want to easily go back in but finally did get it to thread.
Instructions mention using the rub-guard for Gen IVs; I used it because I have 2 tubes with the heat shield sitting on top of them. 1 is Coolant line and the other I believe is vacuum that are under the Throttle Body inlet tubes.

For the factory air box drain that everyone is discussing; I do have the drain molded into the air box but I do not have the little plastic thing like the picture shows (earlier posted in the thread).

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I was able to install the 1/8" Dynaliner yesterday. Although there are many adhesive back insulation products out there I chose Dynaliner for a few reasons:

- closed cell (no water absorption)
- designed for automotive environment (resists oil, chemicals, durable)
- 1/8" thickness (allows installation on most surfaces of the shield without interfering with fit)
- dark gray color (blends in nicely with the shield color)
- claims to have the highest heat blocking properties of any single layer synthetic foam

Installation was simple, and all in it took about an hour to cut everything out, test fit, adhere, and install on the car. I simply laid the shield over the foam and did some tracing to get a rough shape, and refined the shape before adhering.

I ended up doing the entire inside of the main shield, entire bottom of the main shield and bottom of the tube shield. I wanted to keep the black appearance on the most visible surfaces. In hind sight I should have installed the foam on the inside of the tube shield but did not do so at the time. I used almost the entire 32" x 54" sheet (purchased on eBay for $43).

The test results were encouraging, however, I didn't have time do remove the shield and do a back-to-back:

Ambient Temp: 81 degrees F
DSE Heat Shield with Dynaliner foam installed
3k RPM constant runs: IAT = ~91 degrees F or 10 degrees over ambient
3 minute heat soak: IAT = ~107F or 26 degrees over ambient


Compared to my previous run (66 ambient) this improved the delta running IAT by 4 degrees and soak IAT by 17 degrees

Not bad for $43 and an hour of time. The results could possibly be improved by adding a second layer along the outside bottom of the shield, along the outside of the sides, and along the inside of the tube shield. Note, the first run was even better (6 and 23 degrees over ambient) but I think things got thoroughly heat soaked after the first cycle of running / soaking. Also, the fans were definitely on when idling but the temps weren't climbing at a rate previously seen.

This also has the added bonus of cushioning the contact points between the shield and the car.


IMG_6719.jpgIMG_6720.jpgIMG_6721.jpgIMG_6722.jpgIMG_6725.jpg

[AM.MSCL]

Saturday night drove about 1 hour to meet friends for dinner; this was the 1st real drive with the heat shield installed.
Went from Austin, TX towards San Antonio, TX and got time to watch the IAT along with some other data; I have no idea of number without the heat shield installed.
All temperatures are what the Viper stated.
Outside temp 90 degrees there is high humidity this time of year in the Texas Hill Country but I have no recorded #.
Driving 80-85 MPH in 6th gear (no cruise control)
Oil Temp was 196 degrees
Coolant Temp was 189 degrees
IAT was 98 with flat road and no fluctuation in throttle
IAT was 100 with a incline and a little increase in throttle
IAT would drop to 96 upon acceleration to get back to 80 after having to slow down to 65-70 when coming up on traffic.
IAT went to 106 when sitting at a stop light but once moving again dropped quickly to 98.

Just thought some folks might like to know this info.
Ray

[ViperTony]

I finally had an opportunity to see what the shield is doing for me since having it installed. I attended an auto cross this past weekend. 90 degrees, humid and no shade. Though I could not really check the IATs while on the auto-cross (gotta watch where I'm going ) I checked them before, after and at idle. Normally, while lined up at the grid or lined up to get on the auto course in hot temps, my IAT temps would climb to 147 degrees. This weekend I saw no higher than 125 degrees while idling. Coming off of the track my IATs were in the 107-109 range which is a vast improvement of about 125-129 pre-shield. On the drive home on the highway my IATs were in the 90's which is a noticeable improvement for me. Airflow is key but this shield definitely helps.

[ACRucrazy]

I have used dynaliner in the past for other projects. I could see it helping here.
Hoodliner may not be a bad idea on the bottom of the heat shield. I still have a roll of that around.

[ViperGeorge]

I received the nipples for my two cars on Friday. Put them on this weekend. The nipple slides over the molded drain hole in the air box. The nipples have a molded in spring clamp which you can use hog ring pliers on to secure it to the outlet of the airbox. No need for glue or silicone. Also no need for any drain hose of any kind, the nipple ends in a flat section that has a slit to let water out. They fit with the shield with no problem. Nipples were $6.50 (mopardealerparts.com). They are supposed to come with the car to prevent water from being sucked into the 3/4" hole at the bottom of the air box.

[ViperGeorge]

I was able to install the 1/8" Dynaliner yesterday. Although there are many adhesive back insulation products out there I chose Dynaliner for a few reasons:

- closed cell (no water absorption)
- designed for automotive environment (resists oil, chemicals, durable)
- 1/8" thickness (allows installation on most surfaces of the shield without interfering with fit)
- dark gray color (blends in nicely with the shield color)
- claims to have the highest heat blocking properties of any single layer synthetic foam

Installation was simple, and all in it took about an hour to cut everything out, test fit, adhere, and install on the car. I simply laid the shield over the foam and did some tracing to get a rough shape, and refined the shape before adhering.

I ended up doing the entire inside of the main shield, entire bottom of the main shield and bottom of the tube shield. I wanted to keep the black appearance on the most visible surfaces. In hind sight I should have installed the foam on the inside of the tube shield but did not do so at the time. I used almost the entire 32" x 54" sheet (purchased on eBay for $43).

The test results were encouraging, however, I didn't have time do remove the shield and do a back-to-back:

Ambient Temp: 81 degrees F
DSE Heat Shield with Dynaliner foam installed
3k RPM constant runs: IAT = ~91 degrees F or 10 degrees over ambient
3 minute heat soak: IAT = ~107F or 26 degrees over ambient


Compared to my previous run (66 ambient) this improved the delta running IAT by 4 degrees and soak IAT by 17 degrees

Not bad for $43 and an hour of time. The results could possibly be improved by adding a second layer along the outside bottom of the shield, along the outside of the sides, and along the inside of the tube shield. Note, the first run was even better (6 and 23 degrees over ambient) but I think things got thoroughly heat soaked after the first cycle of running / soaking. Also, the fans were definitely on when idling but the temps weren't climbing at a rate previously seen.

This also has the added bonus of cushioning the contact points between the shield and the car.


IMG_6719.jpgIMG_6720.jpgIMG_6721.jpgIMG_6722.jpgIMG_6725.jpg

I insulated my shield with some silver reflective heat shield stuff but haven't tested it yet. Doug, did you remember to leave the drain holes open in the bottom of the shield? I almost forgot to do this.

[SRT BILL]

Does anyone think the dynaliner 1/4" will work or are we better off using the 1/8" stuff??

[Steve M]

Does anyone think the dynaliner 1/4" will work or are we better off using the 1/8" stuff??

It might work better, but I don't know if there'd be enough clearance to use that product...it is a pretty snug fit on mine.

[ViperGeorge]

Does anyone think the dynaliner 1/4" will work or are we better off using the 1/8" stuff??

If applied to the outside of the shield it would probably interfere with putting the rubber grommet thing back in. It is already tough to get this thing seated properly.

[SRT BILL]

Looks like Doug installed Dynaliner on the inside of unit, I'm getting ready to do my own install of Doug's shield and like the idea of the added insulation and the possible benefits. Just curious if the 1/4" stuff might work.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I used 1/8". That thickness allows installation on many of the sections without fit interference. The tolerances for install are tight.

You could probably increase the thickness on most of the outer bottom and sides without trouble but anywhere there is contact with the car, airbox, or between shields you'll want 1/8" thickness or no added insulation. See my photos, certain areas were purposefully left clean (such as the drain holes).