Gen V Oil and Filter Change Procedure - Tips for DIY

[Doug Nash]

Hi this my first post. Took delivery of my GenV at VIR two weeks ago. Allowed DMS - Dodge Motorsports and NARRA to use as the pace car for the weekend. Jon B from PartsRack is the pace car driver for these events. Anyway, 100 miles to the track (from NC); 140 miles on the track (equates to roughly 1,400 street miles) plus the hot weather idling plus a 400 + miles drive home (Cincinnati) and in three days the car had 640 documented miles plus the extra motor use at the track.

I did the oil change in my garage in about 60 minutes. Much of this is waiting for complete oil drainage. Can't imagine why anyone would pay upwards of $300 to have done. After a one time cost of ramps ($70. for great progressive step up style) and a 11+ quart oil drain pan ($8 at AutoZone) the remaining cost was $15. for the oil filer ( SRT # / Mopar # Mo-041) and 11 quarts of Mobil 1 0W/40 Euroblend (Autozone $62 total. 2 - 5 quarts and a single). So the cost after the first one is about $78 plus knowing you've done it yourself and done it right.
Here were my steps:
1. Warm car - oil by driving for a short distance. Drive car onto - ramps *careful about where you are if in your garage. The hood is way up there when fully open; garage door motors, etc could be in the way. I was close and lucky when I looked up!
2. Chalk both rear wheels. Car in forward gear and e brake on.
3. Center pan under engine and remove drain bolt (13MM) from drivers side. Be sure red o-ring gasket is on the drain bolt - not stuck to pan or in the oil!
4. Allow to drain until completely stopped. I went to pass side and jacked up (without being under car) at the lift point to help all the oil drain. 20 minutes or so and it was completely drained. I let car back down on ramp so completely secure again.
5. Check drain bolt (any fragments on magnetic end, etc. Clean off, ensure o ring is on correctly up to head of bolt and thread back into pan. Hand tighten until
tight. Then tighten to 20 ft pounds of torque. * Stay away from big 1/2" rachets. You only need a 3/8". This is all aluminum and you don't want to over
torque.
6. Move to front-center of Viper. Directly in front of pan you will see the filter. Plenty of room for a standard filter wrench. Remove and allow to drain. BE SURE
the old gasket is not on the engine filter housing.
7. Open new filter. I Sharpie two marks; a 'line' and a 'X' at 180 apart on the filter bottom to do this correctly. This filter goes straight up so you can pre-fill/prime. Also can mark the install date and mileage.
with new oil before spinning on. Also run oil on the gasket (don't pour - rub on with fingers). Wipe off the housing ensuring it is clean and shiny then hand turn
on the new filter. When you feel it contact the housing, you have 1 full turn to go. Note where your Sharpie marks are (otherwise the filter is all white and you
will not be able to judge one full turn). You can with one hand, then both get about 3/4 of the turn needed. Then carefully put on your wrench and smoothly
turn to the one full turn mark.
8. Fill the engine (driver's side oil fill) using the 2 - 5 quart jugs. Put car in neutral and start. Oil pressure should come up in 2-3 seconds on dash display. Check
drain plug and oil filter for any problems - leaks. All should look good so back her down the ramps to level location and turn off. Allow oil to settle then begin
checking. I did not think mine would take the full 11 because at 10 it was on the lower end of the safe mark. After repeatedly checking the amount need from
the bottom end of the Safe mark to the top is about 1 quart. * As noted by some others, I put a light score mark on the back side of the dip stick
corresponding to the stamp[ed marks on the other side. Much easier to see.
9. If your service was showing due, reset the dash using the ignition / gas pedal procedure in the DVD or manual.
!0. Please take your old oil to the store for recycling. Do not pitch in the garbage.
That's it. You've saved +$200 towards other mods and you're a true car guy! And your Viper will think you're a bad...!

[01sapphirebob]

$300???

What dealership is trying to chage that? SHould be between $120-$140 at most.

[swexlin]

$300???

What dealership is trying to chage that? SHould be between $120-$140 at most.

Yep, about $130.00, what mine charges. But, this is an excellent writeup, thank you!

[Rapidrezults]

Great writeup! This will be very useful to many.

Thanks.

[BeBeep]

Thank you for the "How To".

[ViperPete]

Nice Job, very detailed!

[LmeaViper]

$300???

What dealership is trying to chage that? SHould be between $120-$140 at most.

Just did mine.....it was $23X Cdn. So I went to the US with the wife and bought enough Pennzoil for 2 changes on my own. Then I am going to Mobil 1.

[GTR>Viper]

Oil level after dealer oil change (after sitting overnight)
oil level after dealer change.jpg

I drove it 125+ miles back from the dealer like this. I didn't realize it was possible to fuck up an oil change. Just wanted to share this to let people know to check their level before leaving the dealership.. or better yet, do it yourself like I will be from now on.

I already drained the excess, but i wanted to know if i need to change the oil again. Could the potential foaming damage the oil?

[ViperJon]

There can only be one reason for these high readings we are seeing like in the other "oil" thread. There has to be a 1/2 quart or more left in the motor and not draining out, then people are dumping 11 quarts in and it's overfilled. I just changed mine and let the car drain on level ground for more than an hour (no way dealers are doing that) then put 11 quarts in and it was very high....up to the "S" in safe. I sucked a 1/2 quart out and now it sits just above the safe zone. In both my TA and ACR I cannot get 11 quarts in, always 10-1/2 or slightly more.

[swexlin]

Oil level after dealer oil change (after sitting overnight)
oil level after dealer change.jpg

I drove it 125+ miles back from the dealer like this. I didn't realize it was possible to fuck up an oil change. Just wanted to share this to let people know to check their level before leaving the dealership.. or better yet, do it yourself like I will be from now on.

I already drained the excess, but i wanted to know if i need to change the oil again. Could the potential foaming damage the oil?

You are fine, and will not need to drain. A little over fill will not hurt, better this than the alternative. Besides, that's a cold reading, so hot, you'll be in the safe zone. Your dealer did not "fuck it up".

[ACR PWR]

There can only be one reason for these high readings we are seeing like in the other "oil" thread. There has to be a 1/2 quart or more left in the motor and not draining out, then people are dumping 11 quarts in and it's overfilled. I just changed mine and let the car drain on level ground for more than an hour (no way dealers are doing that) then put 11 quarts in and it was very high....up to the "S" in safe. I sucked a 1/2 quart out and now it sits just above the safe zone. In both my TA and ACR I cannot get 11 quarts in, always 10-1/2 or slightly more.

Nice information Jon,

I just took delivery of my 2016 ACR and I prefer to do all my own fluid changes.
These little tricks help. I watch that I don't overfill now..

[wrh3]

Oil level after dealer oil change (after sitting overnight)
oil level after dealer change.jpg

I drove it 125+ miles back from the dealer like this. I didn't realize it was possible to fuck up an oil change. Just wanted to share this to let people know to check their level before leaving the dealership.. or better yet, do it yourself like I will be from now on.

I already drained the excess, but i wanted to know if i need to change the oil again. Could the potential foaming damage the oil?

This is how mine came from the dealer after the R28/29 service, I knew as soon as I started the car the that the oil pressure was off a bit (HIGH) and after checking level I used a topsider to extract 1-2 quarts before the reading was correct. When I do my own oil changes I allow the oil to drain (car level front/back and right/left) for about an hour..... and then tilt the car to the drivers side a bit (level front to back on each side) and let the oil drain for another hour or longer. When I put 11 quarts in, my cold reading in a level garage is at the top of the safe hash marks, reading lowest side of dipstick- I duplicated the hash marks on the other side).

I think it takes a while to get most of the oil out of the engine, oil cooler, and oil lines and that the dealer does not allow time to let it drain out completely. Then they add 11 quarts. One more reason I do maintenance myself

My reading using prescribed hot method/cold differs maybe 1-2 mm. I think overfilling is as bad as underfilling since the oil gets aerated, same net effect is reduced lubrication.

[Purple Haze]

Thanks Doug great data for a novice like me...I'll be doing my first change soon...

[stradman]

Just wondering the OP said that he puts the car up on ramps. I presume those are the front wheels right? He then jacks up the pass side after the initial drain, whilst on the ramps to get some more oil out? Maybe I'm not understanding correctly.

[curt922]

I haven't been able to find ramps that I can drive the Gen V on for anywhere near the price mentioned above so I used a floor jack. I got my first oil change done myself with jack stands and a floor jack (3 ton, low profile jack for $99 at Harbor Freight) in about 2 hours including the draining time of about an hour and 15 minutes.

[ForTehNguyen]

Race Ramps work for vipers but are a tad pricey

[river rat]

I haven't been able to find ramps that I can drive the Gen V on for anywhere near the price mentioned above so I used a floor jack. I got my first oil change done myself with jack stands and a floor jack (3 ton, low profile jack for $99 at Harbor Freight) in about 2 hours including the draining time of about an hour and 15 minutes.

I built a set of ramps using 2x10 lumber for about 50$

[supersnake]

Good write up but you forgot one thing, Should have taken a oil sample and sent in to be analyzed. Can't be to carefull

[bmwtmx]

Just changed my oil today but I have the hydraulic Quick Jack in my garage. I have to say they are the best thing you can buy to work on any car and they aren't crazy expensive. Jack up the car in 2 minutes by pressing a button, locks into place, do your work, and lower it. No dragging jacks and jack stands around unless you need them.

Oh, and I solved the nasty vibration my car was suffering from which I thought was inside the dash. Turns out every single Torx T40 bolt holding the belly pan under the transmission were loose and 1 was missing. Went to the dealer and bought the last 2 they had just in case for a ridiculous $16 (thats $8 per bolt!). Drove the car for 70 miles on a beautiful day and all is good again.

I didn't take a picture of the Viper on the lift but here is a link of what it looks like:

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pop.../QuickJack.jpg

[serpent]

This is how mine came from the dealer after the R28/29 service, I knew as soon as I started the car the that the oil pressure was off a bit (HIGH) and after checking level I used a topsider to extract 1-2 quarts before the reading was correct. When I do my own oil changes I allow the oil to drain (car level front/back and right/left) for about an hour..... and then tilt the car to the drivers side a bit (level front to back on each side) and let the oil drain for another hour or longer. When I put 11 quarts in, my cold reading in a level garage is at the top of the safe hash marks, reading lowest side of dipstick- I duplicated the hash marks on the other side).

I think it takes a while to get most of the oil out of the engine, oil cooler, and oil lines and that the dealer does not allow time to let it drain out completely. Then they add 11 quarts. One more reason I do maintenance myself

My reading using prescribed hot method/cold differs maybe 1-2 mm. I think overfilling is as bad as underfilling since the oil gets aerated, same net effect is reduced lubrication.

I've done i think 4 oil changes and using a regular ramp or even a lift takes forever to empty the oil out. I have to use two jacks and lift the car higher on the passenger side to empty the oil faster. I tried just lifting the front and after letting it drip for about 3 hours I knew there was still a lot of oil. Just know that when you empty the oil, expect to empty out AT LEAST 10 qts of oil, you put in 11 right?

By jacking up the passenger side the drip became a higher flow. Basically it emptied about another qt just from doing this method. If i left the front jacked for 24 hours maybe I would have got all the oil out.

[SRT BILL]

I've done i think 4 oil changes and using a regular ramp or even a lift takes forever to empty the oil out. I have to use two jacks and lift the car higher on the passenger side to empty the oil faster. I tried just lifting the front and after letting it drip for about 3 hours I knew there was still a lot of oil. Just know that when you empty the oil, expect to empty out AT LEAST 10 qts of oil, you put in 11 right?

By jacking up the passenger side the drip became a higher flow. Basically it emptied about another qt just from doing this method. If i left the front jacked for 24 hours maybe I would have got all the oil out.

Agreed, the only way to get most of the oil out is to jack the passenger side. I don't think the oil cooler ever get drained on the viper. On one of my other vehicles the oil cooler has a drain and that allows about an additional 8-12 oz to be removed.

[Viper_oman]

Hi this my first post. Took delivery of my GenV at VIR two weeks ago. Allowed DMS - Dodge Motorsports and NARRA to use as the pace car for the weekend. Jon B from PartsRack is the pace car driver for these events. Anyway, 100 miles to the track (from NC); 140 miles on the track (equates to roughly 1,400 street miles) plus the hot weather idling plus a 400 + miles drive home (Cincinnati) and in three days the car had 640 documented miles plus the extra motor use at the track.

I did the oil change in my garage in about 60 minutes. Much of this is waiting for complete oil drainage. Can't imagine why anyone would pay upwards of $300 to have done. After a one time cost of ramps ($70. for great progressive step up style) and a 11+ quart oil drain pan ($8 at AutoZone) the remaining cost was $15. for the oil filer ( SRT # / Mopar # Mo-041) and 11 quarts of Mobil 1 0W/40 Euroblend (Autozone $62 total. 2 - 5 quarts and a single). So the cost after the first one is about $78 plus knowing you've done it yourself and done it right.
Here were my steps:
1. Warm car - oil by driving for a short distance. Drive car onto - ramps *careful about where you are if in your garage. The hood is way up there when fully open; garage door motors, etc could be in the way. I was close and lucky when I looked up!
2. Chalk both rear wheels. Car in forward gear and e brake on.
3. Center pan under engine and remove drain bolt (13MM) from drivers side. Be sure red o-ring gasket is on the drain bolt - not stuck to pan or in the oil!
4. Allow to drain until completely stopped. I went to pass side and jacked up (without being under car) at the lift point to help all the oil drain. 20 minutes or so and it was completely drained. I let car back down on ramp so completely secure again.
5. Check drain bolt (any fragments on magnetic end, etc. Clean off, ensure o ring is on correctly up to head of bolt and thread back into pan. Hand tighten until
tight. Then tighten to 20 ft pounds of torque. * Stay away from big 1/2" rachets. You only need a 3/8". This is all aluminum and you don't want to over
torque.
6. Move to front-center of Viper. Directly in front of pan you will see the filter. Plenty of room for a standard filter wrench. Remove and allow to drain. BE SURE
the old gasket is not on the engine filter housing.
7. Open new filter. I Sharpie two marks; a 'line' and a 'X' at 180 apart on the filter bottom to do this correctly. This filter goes straight up so you can pre-fill/prime. Also can mark the install date and mileage.
with new oil before spinning on. Also run oil on the gasket (don't pour - rub on with fingers). Wipe off the housing ensuring it is clean and shiny then hand turn
on the new filter. When you feel it contact the housing, you have 1 full turn to go. Note where your Sharpie marks are (otherwise the filter is all white and you
will not be able to judge one full turn). You can with one hand, then both get about 3/4 of the turn needed. Then carefully put on your wrench and smoothly
turn to the one full turn mark.
8. Fill the engine (driver's side oil fill) using the 2 - 5 quart jugs. Put car in neutral and start. Oil pressure should come up in 2-3 seconds on dash display. Check
drain plug and oil filter for any problems - leaks. All should look good so back her down the ramps to level location and turn off. Allow oil to settle then begin
checking. I did not think mine would take the full 11 because at 10 it was on the lower end of the safe mark. After repeatedly checking the amount need from
the bottom end of the Safe mark to the top is about 1 quart. * As noted by some others, I put a light score mark on the back side of the dip stick
corresponding to the stamp[ed marks on the other side. Much easier to see.
9. If your service was showing due, reset the dash using the ignition / gas pedal procedure in the DVD or manual.
!0. Please take your old oil to the store for recycling. Do not pitch in the garbage.
That's it. You've saved +$200 towards other mods and you're a true car guy! And your Viper will think you're a bad...!

Thank you, Great write up!!