Add me to the list of Gen IV broken rear control arms

[tattooed]

Took my 2010 ACR in to the dealer today to check out a problem with a clicking noise in the rear. Also asked them to check the e-brake, check the brake pads, and look for anything else, because it's still on the original 3/36 and I'm getting ready to sell it.

Turns out one of my control arms is broken! Guess I'm lucky it didn't spin me out into the path of an oncoming truck at 75mph.

Also, the e-brake was 95% worn and has to be replaced. I was getting the car thoroughly inspected and ready for sale, and now I can't drive it, can't sell it, and parts are not in stock.

Car info, background:
I'm the original owner
NEVER tracked
NEVER wrecked
NEVER curbed
NO donuts
NO drifting
NEVER been over a speed bump faster than 5mph
Bone stock, including wheels and tires (new Cups recently installed)
11,400 miles
Still on the original 3/36 factory warranty


Anybody happen to know if there's a backorder on Gen IV rear control arms?

Will they be replacing the parts with the exact same control arm, or does Dodge have an updated, stronger design?

Would it be unreasonable for me to insist that they replace both left and right rear control arms?

[01sapphirebob]

Didn't know there was an issue with the control arms. I have heard about an issue with the tow links in the rear. Sorry that happened. Hopefully they can source parts for you. YOu may have to give somone like Jon B a call and see if he has any control arms.

[tattooed]

AC/DC: I didn't get that info, but I'll ask.

[Back In Black]

Would love to see a picture.

[tattooed]

Maybe the service writer or tech meant to say the knuckle. He told me it was a broken control arm though. I'll call tomorrow for clarification.

01sapphirebob, you're an old timer, so I assume you're very familiar with the NHTSA rear suspension knuckle investigation. Statistically, looks the like the # of failures is so small/insignificant that a recall is not warranted. So, guess I can't really complain about it ... just bad luck and bad timing. I had a nightmare sourcing steering parts for my SRT-10 RAM, and these are both very low production vehicles, so I can't really complain (too much) about the parts availability either. Chrysler offered to put me in a rental until it was fixed, but I have other cars to drive, so I declined the rental (to help do my part to keep repair costs down and be a good customer).

Thanks for the idea about Jon B.

[01sapphirebob]

Maybe the service writer or tech meant to say the knuckle. He told me it was a broken control arm though. I'll call tomorrow for clarification.

01sapphirebob, you're an old timer, so I assume you're very familiar with the NHTSA rear suspension knuckle investigation. Statistically, looks the like the # of failures is so small/insignificant that a recall is not warranted. So, guess I can't really complain about it ... just bad luck and bad timing. I had a nightmare sourcing steering parts for my SRT-10 RAM, and these are both very low production vehicles, so I can't really complain (too much) about the parts availability either. Chrysler offered to put me in a rental until it was fixed, but I have other cars to drive, so I declined the rental (to help do my part to keep repair costs down and be a good customer).

Thanks for the idea about Jon B.

I think thats what I was thinking of.

[XSnake]

I'm guessing you are talking about a toe link support failure. Only failures I've ever heard of are were from vehicles with accident history or that were heavily tracked. Would love to see pics.

[tattooed]

I'll try to get some pics, but can't promise anything.

[steve911]

Snakeoyl/ Viper Parts USA has it all in stock no matter what part of the suspension you are looking for.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Took my 2010 ACR in to the dealer today


Car info, background:
I'm the original owner
NEVER tracked
NEVER wrecked
NEVER curbed
NO donuts
NO drifting
NEVER been over a speed bump faster than 5mph
Bone stock, including wheels and tires (new Cups recently installed)
11,400 miles
Still on the original 3/36 factory warranty.

Like my doctor says, 'if you don't exercise its gonna turn to flab'....Your problem appears to be atrophy of the control arms from a sedentary life..

Kidding of course.


No "improvement" on A-Arms.
No back-orders, lots exist.
And under warranty; 'Not Broke Don't Fix' is the rule, unless a TSB exixts (it doesn't)

That said, I have NEVER heard of a G3-4 upright or A-arm failure unless "Exercised Hard" or some damage-history. Even a hard curb hit.

Suffix to that: $289 of preventative maintenance on any-all Gen 3-4-5 SRTs will likely PREVENT what could be catastrophic.

Suffix to that: Handling bonus at rear by stiffening everything..... Gen 2 available at $229 unless the recall WAS performed.

[C.J]

... Suffix to that: Handling bonus at rear by stiffening everything..... Gen 2 available at $229 unless the recall WAS performed.

JonB, are you referring to the anti toe-in brackets? Which recall? Thx.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

JonB, are you referring to the anti toe-in brackets? Which recall? Thx.

Yes. The Gen 2: 998-999 frame gusset recalls 1996.5~2000

[Bmw2nv2000]

Dang hard to believe its a lower arm. They are super beefy. Uppers are a little on the thin side and ive seen uppers have slight bend but that was previous damaged cars.

[tattooed]

JonB, thanks for answers to all of my questions, and for the insights on failure history and fix. VERY much appreciated!

[MtnBiker]

As they say in the alley, this thread ain't worth shit without pictures!

[ACRucrazy]

Why are you selling?!

[Dan Cragin]

I agree with Jon B. I have not seen any failures like this that were not related to use or an impact. Get some more info and pictures.

Dan

[tattooed]

Why are you selling?!

Personal reason. PM'd you.

[v10addiction]

The e-brakes pads wear out when the car is tracked or heavily cornered, and is normal.

We remove the pads on the cars we track, to avoid the wear and prevent the e-brake from being welded to the rotor when they are hot parked.

Cracked control arms are very rare.

In the ACR-x cars, we have 99% stock parts and they call for the replacement of the control arms every 250 hours.
Since they are near impossible get, we remove them and have the magnafluxed for cracks.

Not one has needed replacing.

In a wreck with a side hit so hard it shattered the brake rotor, the control arm was not only un-cracked, it was not even bent.

I would insist on seeing the crack and have the control magnafluxed by a third party.
There are many lines on the control arms that resemble cracks but are the casting marks.

More likely you have a bearing issue which sounds like a pop or crack when you go from parked to backing up or from backing up to forward, due to bearing clearance.
This is more pronounced in cars with race alignments and may occur during turning or changing ride height over speed bumps or driveways.

Viper hubs take a terrible beating with the lateral G load and the wide tires.
We replace all four hubs every 9000-12000 miles on the street cars and every 2000 miles on the ACR-X's.

You can get the original Timken hubs at autopartswarehouse.com for around $180 each and cheaper hubs for under $100 each.
We have used both without issue.


You can get used parts from JohnB at Partsrack.com or X2 Builders http://www.x2builders.com/.

A never raced, never wrecked car should not have a broken control arm.
Not sure who the dealer is, but I would do some real research on this one first.

It sounds like your going to the dentist for a root canal you don't need.

Good luck.

[EZ 2B Green]

The e-brakes pads wear out when the car is tracked or heavily cornered, and is normal.

We remove the pads on the cars we track, to avoid the wear and prevent the e-brake from being welded to the rotor when they are hot parked.

Cracked control arms are very rare.

In the ACR-x cars, we have 99% stock parts and they call for the replacement of the control arms every 250 hours.
Since they are near impossible get, we remove them and have the magnafluxed for cracks.

Not one has needed replacing.

In a wreck with a side hit so hard it shattered the brake rotor, the control arm was not only un-cracked, it was not even bent.

I would insist on seeing the crack and have the control magnafluxed by a third party.
There are many lines on the control arms that resemble cracks but are the casting marks.

More likely you have a bearing issue which sounds like a pop or crack when you go from parked to backing up or from backing up to forward, due to bearing clearance.
This is more pronounced in cars with race alignments and may occur during turning or changing ride height over speed bumps or driveways.

Viper hubs take a terrible beating with the lateral G load and the wide tires.
We replace all four hubs every 9000-12000 miles on the street cars and every 2000 miles on the ACR-X's.

You can get the original Timken hubs at autopartswarehouse.com for around $180 each and cheaper hubs for under $100 each.
We have used both without issue.


You can get used parts from JohnB at Partsrack.com or X2 Builders http://www.x2builders.com/.

A never raced, never wrecked car should not have a broken control arm.
Not sure who the dealer is, but I would do some real research on this one first.

It sounds like your going to the dentist for a root canal you don't need.

Good luck.

V10Addiction,

How do you get these hubs (Timken) for under $200? Autopartswarehouse lists the rears @ $259 and the fronts @ $208.

[SA Heat]

"There are many lines on the control arms that resemble cracks but are the casting marks."

I noticed this too when I was poking around cleaning.

[v10addiction]

Sign up for an account and they will send you coupons almost daily.
I have gotten 25% off deals.

The hubs go up and down, but I bought 8 hubs two months ago for $188 each.

There are also other companies that wholesale the Timken parts online. just get the part numbers and look around.

Orielly's can get them for you as well.

[tattooed]

Update: got in touch with the service writer today and he clarified that it was the knuckle ... after I asked if it was the control arm or knuckle. He got it wrong the first time, so not sure what to believe.

v10addiction: Thank you very much for the advice, and 411 on e-brakes, control arms, bearings, hubs. Fascinating info that will hopefully help somebody else too down the road.

[bluesrt]

another thing not to do, a lot of people smak those knuckles with hammers to remove the tie rod instead of using the proper tool to remove/ don't do that

[Heysie]

Rockauto have them listed for $ 151.79 and $ 188.79