1996 hub bearings front

[bluesrt]

does anybody know what application they used for a front hub bearing, meaning what platform did they use it off of? so I don't have to pay the viper part number tax? thanks

[bluesrt]

I think I remember dodge Dakota now, modify nut in spline to new one, anybody verify this?

[Luisv]

The Moog (Federal Mogul) part numbers differ for the 1996 Dakota and Viper. The hub assemblies are also different. However, I can tell you that the prices are the same for the part on the Dakota and Viper. Both show as $129 (on a few sites like RockAuto) for the hub assembly. There does not seem to be a Viper tax if you go with the Moog part.

The fact that there are different numbers would seem fine to me. I would not think they would be the same. Main reason I would say that is that the wheel widths are significantly different between the truck and Viper. Also, I don't know if there is a Metric vs. SAE difference. Given that, I would likely tell you to go with the full hub assembly as they swap out with four bolts. Front and rear is the same deal and it would be an easier repair/replacement.

This is what I show for the 1996 Viper:

http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part...E%20VIPER&vin=

[Blue96GTS]

I replaced both front hubs in the last year on my 96. First hub had a runout problem causing me fits/shudders. Second hub (replaced several months later) was replaced due to paranoia, although it seemed fine. First hub was procured via my local Dodge dude, and was a bit pricey $$$. Second hub was acquired from JonB for A LOT LESS MONEY than the first. Not sure if the price is still the same, but I believe I paid JonB about $275/unit plus a small fee for shipping. These hubs were the official MOPAR part for my vehicle. Not sure of the Rock Auto hubs have everything included - bearing, studs, etc... I do track the car, which seems to be hard on parts, especially the hubs/bearings. I'm now sleeping better at night, knowing my wheels won't come flying off.

Hub assemblies are extremely easy to change out. As Luis points out, only 4 bolts holding the whole assembly together (after removing rotors/calipers). Certainly easier than re-packing wheel bearings. Don't forget to find/reuse the metal gasket which is hiding behind all of the gunk built up in your existing hub assembly. Torque to specs, measure hub runout, re-install rotors/calipers, retest runout at rotors (to ensure they are not warped), and drive fast to test your labor.

[XSnake]

Timken makes the OEM hubs. You can buy their replacements for a lot less but they will come without the center spline bolt. You will have to get it off your old one and install onto the new one. There is a trick to do this but it can be done. This is what I did when I replaced mine on my GTS when I had it.

[bluesrt]

ok thanks guys

[Dajerseyviper]

What do you do for 2001 and 2002 cars with the ABS sensor?