Group Buy: DSE-VP-HS-001 – Gen IV and V Airbox Intake Heat Shield

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Installed mine today. Great quality. I put double stick foam on the front and back of mine to help with the shield rubbing on the radiator fan shroud and metal cross brace in the back. Some thin plastic washers for the DSE bolts wouldn't be a bad idea too IMO.

Good ideas for extra protection for the car and shield. FYI the DSE bolts are radiused on the back edge to prevent (or reduce the chance) of them marring the plastic of the airbox.

[TexasTonka]

Got mine in on Saturday but haven't been home to install! Patiently waiting until I can fly home.

[FrgMstr]

Got mine. Will likely not be able to get out to install until later next week.

[slowhatch]

Mines installed, great piece.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

All have been recoated and shipped unless you just ordered yours last week (sorry, 98intrigue I'm out of bubble wrap but will get yours sent later this week). Good to start seeing these show up on cars across the world! I need to install mine this week when I get a chance.

[Voice of Reason]

I just got mine installed on my '14 and will be taking it for a drive soon. A couple quick observations from the install:

- It was a snug fit getting the tabs to slide in around the radiator. Nothing terrible but if others are struggling there just a little know that you're not alone.
- The two DSE labeled screws are not long enough, I had to reuse the plastic hand turn screws. I suspect the Gen IV has shorter screws, in the pics of others it looks like the Gen V has a small spacer that raises our intake up 1/2-3/4". This wasn't an issue, the plastic screws still work, I just couldn't use the cool DSE ones.
- Finish of the piece is very good. It looks completely in place when installed, non Viper guys won't even think it wasn't stock.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Interesting. The screws are quite a bit too long for the Gen IV. Any photos of this? How long are the OEM screws? What about flipping the OEM clip nuts upside down to reduce the thread length required?

Can you elaborate on the tight fit around the radiator?

Thanks
Doug

I just got mine installed on my '14 and will be taking it for a drive soon. A couple quick observations from the install:

- It was a snug fit getting the tabs to slide in around the radiator. Nothing terrible but if others are struggling there just a little know that you're not alone.
- The two DSE labeled screws are not long enough, I had to reuse the plastic hand turn screws. I suspect the Gen IV has shorter screws, in the pics of others it looks like the Gen V has a small spacer that raises our intake up 1/2-3/4". This wasn't an issue, the plastic screws still work, I just couldn't use the cool DSE ones.
- Finish of the piece is very good. It looks completely in place when installed, non Viper guys won't even think it wasn't stock.

[98intrigue]

All have been recoated and shipped unless you just ordered yours last week (sorry, 98intrigue I'm out of bubble wrap but will get yours sent later this week). Good to start seeing these show up on cars across the world! I need to install mine this week when I get a chance.

Thanks for the info, Doug. I'm still about 3 weeks away until I lay eyes on my Gen V anyways.

[Voice of Reason]

Interesting. The screws are quite a bit too long for the Gen IV. Any photos of this? How long are the OEM screws? What about flipping the OEM clip nuts upside down to reduce the thread length required?

Can you elaborate on the tight fit around the radiator?

Thanks
Doug

I think flipping the clip nuts over would interfere with the spacer. I'll PM you my phone number, I took a pic of how the intake is raised by the spacer. And I measured the length of the screws, the Gen V plastic screw is exactly 1/2" longer.

The tight fit wasn't due to any sheet metal issues, it was that the clip nut fits right down into the hole in the tab and getting that lined up with the top tabs that go over the radiator took some pushing.

[XSnake]

I think I remember moving my clips on the prototype.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

It seems that the easiest solution to the Gen V thumb screws is probably to get longer ones made. For those who have a Gen V, let me know your level of interest for the anodized "DSE" thumb screws and I'll look into making a longer version for exchange. In the meantime the OEM screws can still be used to secure the shield. Apologies to Gen V owners for this oversight!

Doug

[Voice of Reason]

It doesn't bother me at all using the original plastic ones. They don't interfere with air flow and you can't see them with the hood open unless you're leaning WAY over the engine. Gen IVs they're visible because your hood opens the wrong way (hehe) so I get why they're good there. But for us Gen V guys I say don't worry about it.

[TexasTonka]

It seems that the easiest solution to the Gen V thumb screws is probably to get longer ones made. For those who have a Gen V, let me know your level of interest for the anodized "DSE" thumb screws and I'll look into making a longer version for exchange. In the meantime the OEM screws can still be used to secure the shield. Apologies to Gen V owners for this oversight!

Doug

I would certainly be interested. Although I wasn't originally expecting this final touch, I think it is a really cool detail to the piece. The OEM will work 100%, but I'd be very interested in the logo DSE thumb screws to complete the install and finish off the look.

[XSnake]

It seems that the easiest solution to the Gen V thumb screws is probably to get longer ones made. For those who have a Gen V, let me know your level of interest for the anodized "DSE" thumb screws and I'll look into making a longer version for exchange. In the meantime the OEM screws can still be used to secure the shield. Apologies to Gen V owners for this oversight!

Doug

What about the screws from the prototype? Why move away from those?

[SSGNRDZ_28]

What about the screws from the prototype? Why move away from those?

The Gen V screws are 0.5" longer than the Gen IV. Even those you had wouldn't have been long enough. The screws included with the shield work fine with the Gen IV but are 1" instead of 1.5".

I moved away because I wanted to offer a lighter weight screw in black so they wouldn't stand out too much against the black of the airbox.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Everyone make sure you have your rubber drain / valve piece installed on the bottom of your airbox. Just did some testing and it was 4 degrees hotter running and 10 degrees hotter at heat soak without that plug.

[FrgMstr]

Everyone make sure you have your rubber drain / valve piece installed on the bottom of your airbox. Just did some testing and it was 4 degrees hotter running and 10 degrees hotter at heat soak without that plug.

Great information, I would NOT have called that.

[FrgMstr]

Got mine installed.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Here is the drain tube being discussed. I wonder if this is something they eliminated for 2014+? It seems like at least a few people did not have one installed. It can be found online for less than $10.

05038304AA TUBE. Drain


image1.jpg

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Here are some test results from this weekend:

Ambient temp 66 degrees F

With shield
~1 mile at ~3k rpm 2nd gear, ~45MPH 80 degrees F or 14 degrees F over
2 minute idle soak at 109 or 43 over

With Shield, No Drain Plug
~1 mile at ~3k rpm 2nd gear, ~45MPH 84 degrees F or 18 degrees F over
2 minute idle soak at 118 degrees F or 52 degrees F over

No Shield
~1 mile at ~3k rpm 2nd gear, ~45MPH 87 degrees F or 21 degrees F over
2 minute idle soak at 124 degrees F or 58 degrees F over

2008 Coupe. Removed the hood grilles. These were back to back runs on the same road, wind direction, speed, etc.

Throttle and speed play a big part in the IAT. For example, if I went from just cruising at 3k RPM ~15% throttle to a bit more the IAT was only 9 over ambient. I did notice slightly different temps depending on direction due to wind.

Notes:

- The drain plug matters for cooler IAT.

- In this test scenario no timing is being pulled with the shield installed but timing is being pulled without the shield while running.

- When the radiator fans kick on IAT will skyrocket with or without the shield, but the shield keeps temps at a lower level.

- When idling without moving hot air is pulled from in front of the radiator on a 2008 hood. Air will rise from the radiators, into the holes of the hood which feed the intake. You can feel hot air being fed instead of pulling all of the cool air from the outside as might be expected. (an Arrow closeout panel or similar would eliminate this negative side effect at idle, but I suspect this duct work probably has a big “ram” effect of cool air while driving). This needs further investigation!

Thanks
Doug

[ACRucrazy]

- When idling without moving hot air is pulled from in front of the radiator on a 2008 hood. Air will rise from the radiators, into the holes of the hood which feed the intake. You can feel hot air being fed instead of pulling all of the cool air from the outside as might be expected. (an Arrow closeout panel or similar would eliminate this negative side effect at idle, but I suspect this duct work probably has a big “ram” effect of cool air while driving). This needs further investigation!

Thanks
Doug

This is always something I wondered. The hood has those holes on each side that feed from in front of the radiator. At speed air should be drawn in from behind the bumper, in front of the radiator, up through the hood and in to the intake. Blocking that off limits the air to be taken through the scoop and through those holes that are now blocked off.

My thought has been a block off that dips down and still draws air from behind the upper opening in the bumper.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

This is always something I wondered. The hood has those holes on each side that feed from in front of the radiator. At speed air should be drawn in from behind the bumper, in front of the radiator, up through the hood and in to the intake. Blocking that off limits the air to be taken through the scoop and through those holes that are now blocked off.

My thought has been a block off that dips down and still draws air from behind the upper opening in the bumper.

Yeah, I started looking into closeout panel design before this test and had some questions about the hood duct work. Obviously a closeout panel with active shutters or some sort of scoop as you suggest is needed to benefit both pressure into the intake and cooler engine temps, otherwise it looks to be a compromise.

[Simms]

Just an FYI, my 14 does not have that plug.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Just an FYI, my 14 does not have that plug.

When you look up the P/N online it only goes to 2013... Wondering if they decided to not put them on after that for whatever reason.

[slowhatch]

Very good info on that plug, I left mine off, went back and re-installed it.