Code P0107 - Now odd smell from exhaust

[Viper Specialty]

You should be doing this with a DVOM, never a test-light.

Also, quick-taps are the absolute worst connection method you can use. Get those out of there and solder it or have someone do it. Repair the wiring first, then troubleshoot. My money is on the Quick Taps severing one of the wires, or the sensor itself.

[GhostStalker27]

You should be doing this with a DVOM, never a test-light.

Also, quick-taps are the absolute worst connection method you can use. Get those out of there and solder it or have someone do it. Repair the wiring first, then troubleshoot. My money is on the Quick Taps severing one of the wires, or the sensor itself.

I thought I was using a DVOM (innova 3320), I agree so I got the quick taps out of there and solder those wires...still didn't fix it. When I tested the signal from the map sensor again I noticed that anything over 12 hg made the voltage go bonkers, everything from 12hg down thru 0hg went as expected. But when I used a new map sensor my car still ran rough and the check engine light went on again.

[Viper Specialty]

I thought I was using a DVOM (innova 3320), I agree so I got the quick taps out of there and solder those wires...still didn't fix it. When I tested the signal from the map sensor again I noticed that anything over 12 hg made the voltage go bonkers, everything from 12hg down thru 0hg went as expected. But when I used a new map sensor my car still ran rough and the check engine light went on again.

Your only other option is to disconnect everything, and test wiring independently. Its tedious, but check for continuity between each terminal to make sure a wire is not crossed [Yes, thats all of them. Do it from the PCM connector... its going to take a half an hour to run through them all]. Check for excessive resistance from PCM connector to the MAP sensor connector. Beyond that, the PCM may have a bad pullup resistor.

This is a situation where a DRB-3 scan tool would turn this into a 5 minute job.

[My98RT10]

Did you do the test of the ground connection as discussed meanwhile?

[GhostStalker27]

Did you do the test of the ground connection as discussed meanwhile?

I did and the grounds good, 12.5 volts.

The cars running again - took it for an hour drive last night.



For anyone looking at this in the future.

The Map sensor as 3 wires - Power, ground, and signal. Test all of them by following these instructions ->http://easyautodiagnostics.com/chrys...gnostic-test-1


My voltage was slightly higher than the instructions suggest
Power was 5.15 volts
Signal was also 5.15 Volts
and Ground was 12.5 volts


Now if you are worried about frying your PCM by doing the ground test I can assure you that it is safe if you set you Multimeter to DCV (DC volts like shown here Attachment 10269) and put the read probe on the + battery terminal and the Black probe on the ground wire.



Ultimately I'm not sure which fixed my issue or if it was a combination of things.
- I have a yellow box speed calibrator so I redid (soldered) all those wires to ensure the connection was good (it shares the same ground as the MAP sensor - if oyu follow the instructions that came with the calibrator).
- I cleaned out the plug(black/left one) that goes into the PCM, there were actually cobb webs in there (I guess a little spidy made a home over the winter)
- And finally I changed the map sensor. The one that was in there worked as should until I got up to about 12 hg of pressure at which point the voltage went haywire.

As for the odd gas smell I mentioned in the op, it could be from going into limp mode on the highway and or the fact I accidentally put about 6 gallons of the wrong octane)

The strange thing is the first time I used a new map sensor the car ran like crap and the check engine light went back on, I returned it and bought a different brand and the car is now running good. Thanks for all the help everyone, I appreciate it.

[My98RT10]

Glad you could get your problem fixed! May I ask what brand the MAP sensors were that you purchased? Thanks.

[GhostStalker27]

Glad you could get your problem fixed! May I ask what brand the MAP sensors were that you purchased? Thanks.

The first one was one from NAPA Auto ($99), the second one was a Duralast from Autozone it was actually $75 (for some reason more expensive online..) ->http://www.autozone.com/engine-manag...fi/195775_0_0/

[My98RT10]

Thanks. What was the reason for not buying OEM?

[GhostStalker27]

Thanks. What was the reason for not buying OEM?

I wanted to get it same day, and those 2 stores were near by

[Viper Specialty]

For what its worth, ALWAYS use OEM sensors. Just because another manufacturer may have one that looks alike, does not mean they have the same calibration; especially temperature, pressure, and O2 sensors. Unless you can confirm via internal reference part numbers, or the OE is a re-branded sensor from another manufacturer, always assume it is factory-specific calibration. This kind of thing can lead to SEVERE graying of hair in a hurry.

[My98RT10]

... This kind of thing can lead to severe graying of hair in a hurry.

lol

[GhostStalker27]

screw it, why take the chance - IMG_20150425_103138.jpg