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  1. #1
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    Gen II Upper and Lower Ball Joint Replacement

    I know there has to be other people by now that have had to replace the ball joints. I know there's limited options, I'm trying to find the best one for an avid DIYer. Dodge would like you to replace the whole control arm and knuckle while you're at it. While I'm sure their accountants and service reps thought that was a great idea at the time, I think it f#%$ing sucks. I'm certainly not going to replace an entire control arm when the joints are easily serviceable. Option two; a Vender sells them for either $131 or $141 EACH depending on which "quality" you go with. There's a thread over on the morgue about the upper joints not even fitting.. The asinine Viper Tax on these parts make the lowers an absolute last resort..

    The good news is I was able to source the Upper joints from RockAuto. It's MOOG part number K778. $30 each with a lifetime warranty, even includes new dust boots and hardware. Link to upper ball joint: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=299&jpid=0 UPDATE: I tried to install these and while they did fit, the install was not as easy as it should have been. They're also not 100% exactly the same as OEM; more threads, thicker head and the joint is a few MM longer. I will be removing them from my car and replacing them with the ball joints mentioned below. I'm only leaving the link because other members have used them without issue. However, I do not recommend them.


    The following links are to the proper ball joints for our cars. They should fit almost every year model. If in doubt just call them.

    Screw in Upper Ball Joints: https://www.howeracing.com/c-583-scr...er-lowers.aspx

    Press fit lower ball joints: https://www.howeracing.com/p-7942-howe-22408-viper.aspx
    Last edited by ACR_Matt; 05-13-2015 at 10:50 AM.

  2. #2
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    Quick update. VPA (sorry for mentioning them) has lower ball joints listed on their website for a much more reasonable price than 131 bucks. Still a bit more than I'd like to pay, but it's an OEM part. I'm going to continue looking for a MOOG, AcDelco, ect replacement. These parts shouldn't cost more than 25-30 dollars.

  3. #3
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    Given the lack of response I'm going to assume no one else has replaced their ball joints. Or I'm the only penny pincher that has a problem paying the Viper Tax for these parts. Either way, new ball joints for my car are arriving Thursday.

  4. #4
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    According to the internet, the upper joint is also used on the '97-'03 Ram 2500's. Easy to get and without the Viper tax.
    The lower appears to be Viper specific.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by ACR_Matt View Post
    Given the lack of response I'm going to assume no one else has replaced their ball joints. Or I'm the only penny pincher that has a problem paying the Viper Tax for these parts. Either way, new ball joints for my car are arriving Thursday.
    I've been waiting to do the same. Thanks for sharing. Look forward to hearing about your results.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bugman Jeff View Post
    According to the internet, the upper joint is also used on the '97-'03 Ram 2500's. Easy to get and without the Viper tax.
    The lower appears to be Viper specific.
    I chased down that rumor already and it's false. Ram 2500 ball joints won't work. They aren't threaded like our upper ball joints are, nor will they work as lower ball joints. Im coming to the conclusion that the lowers truly are Viper specific. Really hoping that's not the case because a lot of us will be SOL as they cars continue aging. VPA tried telling me the rear lower ball joints aren't the same as the front lower ball joints.. To my understanding, the lower ball joints have one part number, 04848174, for both front and rear. I compared the "rear" lower ball joints on my car with the front lower ball joints. They appear and measure to be the exact same. Since purchasing the joint they've removed the item from their website. Guess I bought the last one they had. Which means I have to continue my search for another lower joint. If they end up being front/rear orientated, oh well. I have a right lower rear thats popping and in need of replacing too...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACR_Matt View Post
    I chased down that rumor already and it's false. Ram 2500 ball joints won't work. They aren't threaded like our upper ball joints are,
    It appears to be option dependent. The "with 3500lb axle" trucks are listed as having a threaded joint, the "with 4000lb axle" are press in. At least at Napa.

    I still can't find any more on the lowers than you've already posted. It doesn't look good...

  8. #8
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    Snakeoyl/Viper Parts USA has ball joints.

  9. #9
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    Good news for all! I have a link for upper AND lower ball joints without the mark up.

    Screw in Upper Ball Joints: https://www.howeracing.com/c-583-scr...er-lowers.aspx

    Press fit lower ball joints: https://www.howeracing.com/p-7942-howe-22408-viper.aspx

    Also MOOG K778 is a direct replacement for the upper ball joints, with a lifetime warranty to boot. Hat tip to Mark @ Woodhouse for providing this info. He's helped me out in the past, I should've just called him right from the start.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bugman Jeff View Post
    It appears to be option dependent. The "with 3500lb axle" trucks are listed as having a threaded joint, the "with 4000lb axle" are press in. At least at Napa.

    I still can't find any more on the lowers than you've already posted. It doesn't look good...
    Ahh, that's good to know. I didn't dig into it quite that thoroughly.

    My local dealer told me they had 13 rear lower ball joints left in national inventory. Idk how the front lower joints are any different than the lower rear joints. I highly doubt theres a bit of difference. I'll be able to confirm either way in a few days.

  11. #11
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    So..... Matt.... given the extensive search and avoidance of the Viper tax..... is it safe to assume you are doing the work yourself.... if so.... may I recommend a camera and an abundance of photos for the rest of us.....


    Luis V.
    Miami, Florida
    2002 Dodge Viper GTS - FE #298 & 2013 Dodge Viper GTS

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luisv View Post
    So..... Matt.... given the extensive search and avoidance of the Viper tax..... is it safe to assume you are doing the work yourself.... if so.... may I recommend a camera and an abundance of photos for the rest of us.....

    Thank you, sir! Yes, I do all of the work that I can on my car. Its very difficult to hand over my pride and joy over to someone else.. I'd be happy to write up a quick how to and take pics of the process for everyone when I install them. Whats everyone using for photo sharing? Photobucket? Flickr?

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by ACR_Matt View Post
    Thank you, sir! Yes, I do all of the work that I can on my car. Its very difficult to hand over my pride and joy over to someone else.. I'd be happy to write up a quick how to and take pics of the process for everyone when I install them. Whats everyone using for photo sharing? Photobucket? Flickr?
    You can just save to your drive and upload them using the picture icon Matt.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACR_Matt View Post
    Thank you, sir! Yes, I do all of the work that I can on my car. Its very difficult to hand over my pride and joy over to someone else.. I'd be happy to write up a quick how to and take pics of the process for everyone when I install them. Whats everyone using for photo sharing? Photobucket? Flickr?
    I use Photobucket... but they are all similar. They give you many link options and it was just a better looking interface. They also have a nice mobile app.
    Luis V.
    Miami, Florida
    2002 Dodge Viper GTS - FE #298 & 2013 Dodge Viper GTS

  15. #15
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    so.... job done?
    Luis V.
    Miami, Florida
    2002 Dodge Viper GTS - FE #298 & 2013 Dodge Viper GTS

  16. #16
    This is good info I trying to diagnose a front end POP when turning the wheel and these may end up being the culprit. If so this looks information looks like it could save me some money.

  17. #17
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    Matt,

    Have you done this yet? I have my 03 at Dodge right now for some recall work and they are telling me I need a new upper front left control arm. As you know everything, including labor is crazy expensive and I am not afraid to get my hands dirty if it means I am saving money. From what I have been able to read/find it seems that the upper ball joints are the same for both of our cars.

    What does/did it take for you to get the job done? I would certainly appreciate some help/opinions here.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oberyn View Post
    Matt,

    Have you done this yet? I have my 03 at Dodge right now for some recall work and they are telling me I need a new upper front left control arm. As you know everything, including labor is crazy expensive and I am not afraid to get my hands dirty if it means I am saving money. From what I have been able to read/find it seems that the upper ball joints are the same for both of our cars.

    What does/did it take for you to get the job done? I would certainly appreciate some help/opinions here.
    Sorry for the delayed response, life has gotten the best of me the last few weeks and I haven't had time to make much progress on the car. I will be doing a "How To" just as soon as I can find time. Removing and installing a new upper joint isn't a terribly complicated job. It's actully far easier than the lower ball joint since the control arm can stay in the car. If you dont have a service manual, get one. Best investment I've made for my car. The only special tools you'll need are as follows: a torque wrench, a 2-9/64" ball joint socket (OEM Tools 24215) and a Pitman Arm Puller (OEM Tools 25262? I cant remember the exact part number I used, just make sure the opening is big enough to fit over the upper nuckle). All of these should be available to rent from Autozone or the like. I can report that I DO NOT like the MOOG upper ball joint. While it does fit, it's not exact and it took much more persuasion to get it to seat properly than I'm comfortable with. That being said, I'll be purchasing the upper ball joints to replace the MOOGs from the link to Howe Racing that Mark supplied us with instead. I hope this info gets to you in time. Feel free to PM me and I'll give you my number so I can give you a quick walk through. If you change your own oil or spark plugs, you can do this job.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by flingshot View Post
    This is good info I trying to diagnose a front end POP when turning the wheel and these may end up being the culprit. If so this looks information looks like it could save me some money.
    That could be inner/outer tie rod ends too. It also very well could be the ball joints but be sure to check the tie rods and end links even before replacing the ball joints. Turning the wheel, then hearing the pop, is a big clue as to what the source is. Hope that helps!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACR_Matt View Post
    Sorry for the delayed response, life has gotten the best of me the last few weeks and I haven't had time to make much progress on the car. I will be doing a "How To" just as soon as I can find time. Removing and installing a new upper joint isn't a terribly complicated job. It's actully far easier than the lower ball joint since the control arm can stay in the car. If you dont have a service manual, get one. Best investment I've made for my car. The only special tools you'll need are as follows: a torque wrench, a 2-9/64" ball joint socket (OEM Tools 24215) and a Pitman Arm Puller (OEM Tools 25262? I cant remember the exact part number I used, just make sure the opening is big enough to fit over the upper nuckle). All of these should be available to rent from Autozone or the like. I can report that I DO NOT like the MOOG upper ball joint. While it does fit, it's not exact and it took much more persuasion to get it to seat properly than I'm comfortable with. That being said, I'll be purchasing the upper ball joints to replace the MOOGs from the link to Howe Racing that Mark supplied us with instead. I hope this info gets to you in time. Feel free to PM me and I'll give you my number so I can give you a quick walk through. If you change your own oil or spark plugs, you can do this job.
    I just picked up a service manual so I hope to do some trouble shooting. I appreciate the information. It's great to have such an awesome community around these crazy cars.

  21. #21
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    You posted the "lower press in" as an upper and vice versa. No big deal if you buy both

  22. #22
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    Personally I use Flickr for my pictures, its also a much better site for copying photo links, the search engine on Photobucket is utter rubbish.

    What made you take this task on of replacing these Ball joints, were your joints badly worn? How many miles on the car?

  23. #23
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    Any progress

  24. #24
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    I've seen other threads on this topic of ball joints mention removing the lower control arm to get the lower ball joint out/in. Any reason a ball joint press kit won't work on the lower - without removing the control arm??

    Any updates to this thread?? I'm in the mood to replace some items while things are apart for some brake work - ball joints are on the list. Any updates on how the Howe units are working out??

  25. #25
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    TNT. The lowers come out pretty easy with my "loaned" ball joint press kit from Autozone. No welded beads or snap rings holding the lowers in, just press away. Not yet sure how smooth they will go in, but we'll find out. Parts guys have zero problem pulling up the upper/lower ball joint, and 2 of the 3 stores I visited had them in stock.

    https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...tHN1R0UjgyZTV3
    Last edited by Blue96GTS; 01-12-2016 at 01:46 PM. Reason: Add link


 
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