I think a 20 foot enclosed can now be bought NEW for about $4500 on Ebay....then put a winch in the nose and this makes loading/unloading easy for you....also the side door over the wheels isn't then needed, most of the time with a side door you have to raise the car in the trailer for the door to clear the wheel housing anyway....also put some "non-slip stuff on the floor, if the straps aren't down secured, the car can actually hop from side to side and even hit the wheel housing....new makes more sense in stead of gambling on someone's used, also new usually has a warranty....my $.02
You get what you pay for when it comes to trailers. With the exception of the really cheap trailers motst of the side escape doors will allow you to open the viper door without a problem.
There are so many things to consider when buying a trailer that they couldnt be listed in this forum. Please do some research. Nothing is worse than buying a trailer you hate a few months down the road.
I've used and own both open and enclosed trailers. Only downfall of the enclosed trailer is worse mpg in my opinion. When towing, I often spend the night so having my car locked up in a secure enclosed trailer means huge piece of mind, especially when traveling and staying in areas with limited security. If towing on an open trailer and it is raining, the car often becomes a dirty mess since the tow rigs turbulence kicks up a lot of mist. If taking your Viper to a car show, it arrives looking perfect in an enclosed trailer...not always the case with an open trailer.
My present enclosed trailer is 24' long but only has 17.5' of "car" storage. I can fit either my Viper or Mustang in it with no problem. The front has a bathroom, sink, cabinet, fridge, microwave, etc. I have no problem strapping the car down and have done multiple trips with it as such (800 mile round trips with no issues). I have a set of race ramps that gives the approach angle to even allow ACR's with smooth track settings easy entry with no clearance issues. I suggest the following:
-Get at least a 20' enclosed trailer, with weight equalizing bars you won't even know it is there, other than your mileage, lol.
-Get a center mounted winch. I would find it frustrating to drive a Viper with canards into a trailer (Vipers are wide). With a winch, the car self steers itself right down the center and you have full control especially with a wireless remote. I use two of the IPSCO tow rings and bridle them together so the winch cable is pulling from the center. Leave the car's steering wheel unlocked and she'll drive straight in.
-When unloading, I just drive my pickup's rear tires up onto a set of plastic ramps and this gives the trailer enough angle so the car rolls out by itself with the winch controlling the speed. That way I don't have to jack up the front, etc.
-I'm too fat and old to climb out the window without screwing up the interior or scratching something. Most Vipers door openings are high enough that they will clear the fender of the trailer if you get a side escape door on the trailer.
-If it is raining, it is nice strapping the car down in a dry environment....plus your straps and tie down equipment stays dry and clean.
-If you decide you like the trailer, it is very easy to add an AC so you have someplace to hang out between sessions if the temps are hot. I have a 3000 watt generator that rolls up the ramp and stores behind the Viper. Great for running the AC, or recharging your cell phone if you have a track lap timer on it since those really seem to suck up battery life. The trailer is also a great place to get out of the wind, change, let the kids take a nap, etc.
-For the tie downs on the front, I use a mini "R" hook with two oval rings welded to it. It allows the strap to clear any type of splitter and the strap is nearly flat touching the floor so you have great clearance. You attach to the "D" shaped tie down hole on the frame. On certain ACR's you need to trim about 1/4" of material where the splitter material is covering the D tie down hole. Very easy to tie the car down with the front straps crossed.
-On the Viper, the rear tie downs "D" holes are easy to reach and a super strong tie down point.
-I also carry a set of through the wheel tie down straps for when I'm hauling cars that don't have good or easy to reach tie downs like the Viper.
Good luck with your choice.
George
What winch load rating would be best?
Mine is a Warn RT-40 which is rated at 4000 lbs. That rating is on the very first layer of cable on the drum, as the winch pulls in more cable the drum diameter gets bigger and the winch loses capacity (worse gearing). I honestly think it probably takes between 500 lbs to 800 lbs of actual "pull" to pull the car into the trailer assuming you don't have a mechanical issue with the car dragging the brakes or the approach ramp is super steep. I think any name brand winch from 3500 lbs to 5000 lbs would be sufficient. I highly recommend getting a wireless remote as you can stand anywhere around the car while controlling the winch. Makes loading and unloading the car a simple one man job.
Also, make sure that your winch is attached properly to the floor with something on the underside to attach to. Many trailers are just plywood floors and cannot take much stress from either a winch or the tie down points. At a minimum, you'd want some sort of metal backing plate under the floor for the winch and tie down points. Better yet would be something that ties into the frame to give the winch added support during the pulling and stopping phase of the loading and unloading.
George
+1 with George on this one. I have a 500 lb winch in my trailer. It works well and wasnt much more that a 3000 lb one.
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