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  1. #1

    Replacing Window Regulator In Gen II

    Anyone with experience on diagnosing and replacing the window regulator in a Gen II coupe? If it is the regulator assembly, how big a PITA is this to change?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    VOA Member 99RT10's Avatar
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    It's not that hard. Take off the handle, then door panel. total of 12-14 screws. What year is your car? It could be just a broken plastic clip, but until you get into, it's just a guess. Check your PMs.

  3. #3
    Thank you for the feedback on this.

  4. #4
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    Check out the "How To" Guides, I did a write up on the Window regulator shuttle clip replacement

    http://driveviper.com/forums/threads...ndow-Regulator

  5. #5
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    Though I haven't been around that long, I've never heard of a Gen II regulator failing. The shuttle clips however break regularly. If it is just the shuttle clip, the same part was used on some Mopar mini vans so they're cheap and easy to obtain.

  6. #6
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    Your'e Welcome

  7. #7
    Lessons learned on the Gen II window regulator assembly...

    Passenger window would go down, but not up. Would go up if you pulled on the glass, but very, very slowly. Took the door panel apart to gain access to the mechanicals. Removed electrical connector to motor assembly and checked with volt meter- +/- 12 volts was present when exercising switch. Motor assembly bad- right? NOT! Put the new $500.00 assembly in and SAME PROBLEM!@#$%%^ Turns out the contact in the up/down switch was dirty enough that is would fail under load, but look good using the voltmeter. Sprayed a "generous" amount of contact cleaner in the disassembled switch and problem resolved. Go figure...

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by SSSWEET View Post
    Lessons learned on the Gen II window regulator assembly...

    Passenger window would go down, but not up. Would go up if you pulled on the glass, but very, very slowly. Took the door panel apart to gain access to the mechanicals. Removed electrical connector to motor assembly and checked with volt meter- +/- 12 volts was present when exercising switch. Motor assembly bad- right? NOT! Put the new $500.00 assembly in and SAME PROBLEM!@#$%%^ Turns out the contact in the up/down switch was dirty enough that is would fail under load, but look good using the voltmeter. Sprayed a "generous" amount of contact cleaner in the disassembled switch and problem resolved. Go figure...
    Believe it or not - I had this exact problem with my key fob. Bought a "new" fob and it turned out the old one just needed a serious cleaning on the contacts


 

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