Removing the Fuel Door

[Jack B]

It seems several cars have had the fuel door removed to be painted, however, there have not been any details on the removal process, here you go:

Start by peeling back the rear of the wheelwell liner.

1. It took 1.5 hours to remove all parts. If I did a second time it would be 30 minutes.

2. There are basically two parts, the door itself and the metallic hose neck which is painted black.

A. To remove the rubber hose (it runs from the tank to the hose neck) you have to loosen the hose clamp and then rotate the hose on the hose neck. This will break the friction fit so you can push the hose towards the tank. The hose neck wants to rotate so you need to hold the it with pliers while you rotate the hose. Once the hose rotates you can push the hose out of the way.

B. There is a static wire bond that goes to the frame. I cut it as close as possible to its termination point on the hose neck. You will have to put a new ring terminal on when you reassemble the unit.

C. Remove the four fasteners that hold the the fuel door in place. These look like a nut, however, they are a push-on fastener, To remove them use a 10mm X1/4" socket, on the three visible fasteners. Use a short 10mm ratchet wrench to remove the top rear fastener. All it takes is a 1/4 turn to unseat the fastener.

D. Remove the vent hose from the hose neck. Cut the tie-wraps that hold the electric door release to the hose neck.

3. The whole assembly will now come out. Take a screw driver and push the round/large gasket thru the fuel door, that separates the fuel door from the hose neck.

Fule Door Components.JPG


Outer Fuel Door.JPG

[Nine Ball]

Are you going to paint yours? Seems like you could add something more rigid (rubber?) where that foam strip is, so that the door doesn't open wide enough for the cap to hit the outer ring when opened. Some other guy posted pics of his painted cap and how it would chip where the two points contact.

[Simms]

B. There is a static wire bond that goes to the frame. I cut it as close as possible to its termination point on the hose neck. You will have to put a new ring terminal on when you reassemble the unit.

Jack, I just unbolted it at the frame. What ring terminal are you referring to?

[Jack B]

On the hose neck are two ring terminals. The are held down by a quasi rivet. I plan on replacing the rivet.

I have been told there are minor differences between the 2013 versus the14/15.

Jack, I just unbolted it at the frame. What ring terminal are you referring to?

[Jack B]

Just a guess, they painted because it was easier. You have to sand blast if you powder coat, I am going to powder coat.

Are you going to paint yours? Seems like you could add something more rigid (rubber?) where that foam strip is, so that the door doesn't open wide enough for the cap to hit the outer ring when opened. Some other guy posted pics of his painted cap and how it would chip where the two points contact.

[viper04]

Jack B
Thanks for posting good info to have if you are going to paint the gas cap. What color are you going to paint it?

[Jack B]

Powder Coat 50% black

Jack B
Thanks for posting good info to have if you are going to paint the gas cap. What color are you going to paint it?

[Jack B]

A little more info, my entire unit is a base of copper that is plated. The lid is very thin, if you powder coat, you will have to remove most of the plating, but, be careful, you can burn/melt the lid when sand blasting.

Even if you paint it will be hard to get the paint to adhere if the plating is not addressed

[BeBeep]

Your info was a huge help when I removed and replaced mine. That aft top speed nut was a bit of a bitch. Thank You!!!

It seems several cars have had the fuel door removed to be painted, however, there have not been any details on the removal process, here you go:

Start by peeling back the rear of the wheelwell liner.

1. It took 1.5 hours to remove all parts. If I did a second time it would be 30 minutes.

2. There are basically two parts, the door itself and the metallic hose neck which is painted black.

A. To remove the rubber hose (it runs from the tank to the hose neck) you have to loosen the hose clamp and then rotate the hose on the hose neck. This will break the friction fit so you can push the hose towards the tank. The hose neck wants to rotate so you need to hold the it with pliers while you rotate the hose. Once the hose rotates you can push the hose out of the way.

B. There is a static wire bond that goes to the frame. I cut it as close as possible to its termination point on the hose neck. You will have to put a new ring terminal on when you reassemble the unit.

C. Remove the four fasteners that hold the the fuel door in place. These look like a nut, however, they are a push-on fastener, To remove them use a 10mm X1/4" socket, on the three visible fasteners. Use a short 10mm ratchet wrench to remove the top rear fastener. All it takes is a 1/4 turn to unseat the fastener.

D. Remove the vent hose from the hose neck. Cut the tie-wraps that hold the electric door release to the hose neck.

3. The whole assembly will now come out. Take a screw driver and push the round/large gasket thru the fuel door, that separates the fuel door from the hose neck.

Fule Door Components.JPG


Outer Fuel Door.JPG

[Dustin Barrette]

I know this is an old thread but I attempted my gas cap today... My hose from my tank to the neck with the worm clamp appears to be held on by cement, tried everything to break it loose. So I tried the other method found on here and just loosened the 4 nuts and tried to slip the gasket through and that seems impossible it's wouldn't go through. I'm stuck. Need to get mine out for a core refund. And I really don't want to take it to a dealer 2 hours away and pay a small fortune. Any tips?? Thanks.

[BJG32]

Hey Dustin, put the gasket in the lid first then you'll be able to work the neck in from behind the lid. Sometimes there is not enough play in the ground wire so i cut it, then reattach.

- - - Updated - - -

If that doesn't answer your question post a pic of where you are stuck.

[Jack B]

You have to break that hose friction fit, hold the filler neck and rotate the hose with pliers.You should then be able to take the hose off, this gives you some play that allows you to work on the door.

[Dustin Barrette]

Yeah that's what I figured. I tried that but I guess I'll do it again. It's such a pain in he A**

[Jack B]

Yeah that's what I figured. I tried that but I guess I'll do it again. It's such a pain in he A**

It was not easy, but, once it breaks free it slides right off. The same thing applies to the filler grommet/gasket, it does come off, but, has to be worked.

[viperguy69]

Agreed... a royal pain but well worth it in the end!
I went the powder coat method instead of paint.. we will see if powder was better then paint in the next few years!
IMG_7215.jpg

[Skalywags]

I had one more question. When powder coating you must have also removed the filler door spring, so that little plastic roller piece does not melt, was there any tricks to removing that spring? I don’t want to mess it up to where the door does not operate correctly.
This question is for the 2014 model.
Thanks!

[Jack B]

There was nothing difficult about the spring, The hose removal took sone effort. Mine has been installed for about five years and it looks like new.

[AAA96]

So I just removed the fuel door today. What a pain in the ass that top nut was haha. (Cursing the fine engineers as I was getting it out). I cut the ground wire close to the fuel neck as advised. Question is, how can I remove that (rivet?) in order to replace the ring terminal? Drill it out and replace? Thanks.

[BJG32]

So I just removed the fuel door today. What a pain in the ass that top nut was haha. (Cursing the fine engineers as I was getting it out). I cut the ground wire close to the fuel neck as advised. Question is, how can I remove that (rivet?) in order to replace the ring terminal? Drill it out and replace? Thanks.

Those instructions should be updated. No need to cut that wire. Just follow the wire to the frame and remove the bolt that connects it to the frame.

[AAA96]

Those instructions should be updated. No need to cut that wire. Just follow the wire to the frame and remove the bolt that connects it to the frame.

Damn haha. Now what?

[BJG32]

If you left enough slack, use a butt connector. Available at Autozone.

[Thawk97]

I took mine out a few weeks ago and left the filler hose all attached - just pressed the rubber grommet through - now I'm dreading the re-install a bit - pushing that back through and going back to that top nut (that thing was super tough because my socket wasn't quite deep enough but a deep socket way too deep - might have to cut one up)

[AAA96]

Any negative if we don’t install that top not haha. As for the wire, I just opened up the existing ring terminal clamp and reused it with a new wire. I’ll butt connect the wire to the wire that goes to chassis on install.

[BJG32]

Any negative if we don’t install that top not haha. As for the wire, I just opened up the existing ring terminal clamp and reused it with a new wire. I’ll butt connect the wire to the wire that goes to chassis on install.

There is no issue leaving 1 nut off. I know several that have done it. That nut is a bitch.

[Hawk]

To make this much easier completely remove the inner wheel well. I had mine out to change the oil overs and realized there is a lot of room in there to work rather than just peeling back the rear part