Changed my thermostat, what a difference!!

[stuntman]

My OEM is currently being rodded at a rad shop. I was trying to decide if doing a new 3 core was worth it because I also tend to run in the 195/200 range (96 GTS).

It won't run any cooler if you have the stock 195*F thermostat in it... Plus that's still relatively cool since the LS fan doesn't kick on until 207*F.

[Thawk97]

Im pretty sure you physically can not rod the OEM core, which is why I replaced mine. They may be blowing smoke up your ass and charging you for a rodding and only putting some flush crap in it. Perhaps Jon B or someone else could confirm this.

It's not so much a "they" as a single guy who has a radiator shop - he's was very straight forward about talking me through the work (even let me watch while he took one of the end tanks off to take a look at how bad it was) and there are a lot of locals who recommend him so I don't think he's trying to blow smoke. He could have easily upsold me on re-coring with a 3 core (and I told him as much) and he was very open about letting me know he'd do whatever I thought. I just couldn't decide if it was really worth the cost.

I'm still flip-flopping if I should just call him in the morning and have him put in a new 3 core....

[C5Longhorn]

If you don't mind posting, what is the price you paid for the recore? I think I've seen ranges from $350 - $450.

Thanks,

Rick

[Thawk97]

If you don't mind posting, what is the price you paid for the record? I think I've seen ranges from $350 - $450.

Thanks,

Rick

I was quoted $425 for a replacement 2 core and $500 for a 3 core.

[challenger]

I didnt even pull it all the way off, I took all the bolts out and simply lifted it up and propped it up to give me clearance. The hardest part to get it completely off would be removing the fuel disconnect line, which I have no clue how you would reach it where it is, and if you didnt seat it back in properly, you would have some major issues...Like a fire.. That being said, you will need a long extension Torx drive #35 socket, which is hard to find in stores. And a pair of Needle nose pliers for removing the manifold bolts.

I just took my intake off. Was easy if you have the service manual. I got my hand in there to disconnect the fuel line but the little black piece broke when i did it. I ordered a new fuel line from Dodge but it didn't come with that part!!!. Going back today to find one.
Also my car had a 160 in it? Is that strange?

[ViperTony]

I just took my intake off. Was easy if you have the service manual. I got my hand in there to disconnect the fuel line but the little black piece broke when i did it. I ordered a new fuel line from Dodge but it didn't come with that part!!!. Going back today to find one.
Also my car had a 160 in it? Is that strange?

You broke the fuel-line disconnect fitting?!? I've found that really easy to disconnect if the windshield cowl is removed. I use no special tool just my fingers to disconnect it. A 160 degree stat is not common but not unusual either. Roe Racing used to sell them (probably still do). I put one in 2006 but, in and of itself it did nothing for me. If the rest of the cooling system is incapable of taking advantage of the lower t-stat it's nearly useless by itself. However, the T-stat with more air flow (programming the fan to turn on sooner) makes a noticeable difference. I had Dan Lesser program my PCM to have the fan come on sooner although I don't remember the actual temps.

I also installed a Roe Front Fascia duct which drives more "cooler" air through the radiator. This helps especially when on the track. I also installed a vented cowl to help hot air escape the engine bay. This combination works well for me. At the track, with my engine, my temps have never gotten above 200 and quickly comes down to 190 or less during cool downs. Off the track, my temp gauge never seems to go above 190ish on hot, humid nasty days. Cruising on the highway, my temps are less than 190, somewhere between 175ish to 185ish.

DaJerseyViper did a great combination with getting his radiator re-cored and cleaned PLUS the t-stat PLUS reprogramming the PCM fan temps. I'm pulling my engine this week and will probably get the OEM radiator re-cored. I don't have any cooling issues but it'll be really easy to remove the radiator and get er' done while I'm in there.

If you can't find that quick disconnect fitting give Tator a call. He probably has them in stock.

[tagoo]

The little plastic sleeve thing that is part of the quick-connect fitting is really a built-in tool. Other manufacturers have similar quick-connect fittings, but don't include the plastic sleeve. Instead you have to use a little tool that goes around the fuel line and pushes into the fitting to release the connection.

I also broke the built in plastic part the last time that I took off the fuel line. Rather than replacing the little plastic sleeve, I simply bought a tool at the auto parts store (I think it was $3) that is used for chevys and fords, and use the tool to disconnect the lines. Personally, I like to disconnect tool better than the sleeve as I can feel when the tool engages the connector and know when I should pull on the fuel line. I've also seen that the replacement plastic sleeves are available through Rock Auto for a buck or two.

There are much cheaper options than buying a new fuel line for $90 if you break the plastic sleeve.

[challenger]

The little plastic sleeve thing that is part of the quick-connect fitting is really a built-in tool. Other manufacturers have similar quick-connect fittings, but don't include the plastic sleeve. Instead you have to use a little tool that goes around the fuel line and pushes into the fitting to release the connection.

I also broke the built in plastic part the last time that I took off the fuel line. Rather than replacing the little plastic sleeve, I simply bought a tool at the auto parts store (I think it was $3) that is used for chevys and fords, and use the tool to disconnect the lines. Personally, I like to disconnect tool better than the sleeve as I can feel when the tool engages the connector and know when I should pull on the fuel line. I've also seen that the replacement plastic sleeves are available through Rock Auto for a buck or two.

There are much cheaper options than buying a new fuel line for $90 if you break the plastic sleeve.

Thank you for the info. I will do that. The new line was only $37 thought it would of have that piece on it.

[challenger]

You broke the fuel-line disconnect fitting?!? I've found that really easy to disconnect if the windshield cowl is removed. I use no special tool just my fingers to disconnect it. A 160 degree stat is not common but not unusual either. Roe Racing used to sell them (probably still do). I put one in 2006 but, in and of itself it did nothing for me. If the rest of the cooling system is incapable of taking advantage of the lower t-stat it's nearly useless by itself. However, the T-stat with more air flow (programming the fan to turn on sooner) makes a noticeable difference. I had Dan Lesser program my PCM to have the fan come on sooner although I don't remember the actual temps.

I also installed a Roe Front Fascia duct which drives more "cooler" air through the radiator. This helps especially when on the track. I also installed a vented cowl to help hot air escape the engine bay. This combination works well for me. At the track, with my engine, my temps have never gotten above 200 and quickly comes down to 190 or less during cool downs. Off the track, my temp gauge never seems to go above 190ish on hot, humid nasty days. Cruising on the highway, my temps are less than 190, somewhere between 175ish to 185ish.

DaJerseyViper did a great combination with getting his radiator re-cored and cleaned PLUS the t-stat PLUS reprogramming the PCM fan temps. I'm pulling my engine this week and will probably get the OEM radiator re-cored. I don't have any cooling issues but it'll be really easy to remove the radiator and get er' done while I'm in there.

If you can't find that quick disconnect fitting give Tator a call. He probably has them in stock.

I had bought a 180 t-stat thinking the stock one was in there, but it wasn't so that's why I put a new 160 back in. I have a aluminum radiator and so far it runs fine, but I just bought the car in November so I haven't driven it much. I am finishing putting it back together, had a small leak on the timing chain cover, so I figured I'd change the t-stat and all the hoses while it was apart.
And yes I had the cowl off to reach the connectors behind the coil.
What vented cowl do you have? I like that idea.

[Dajerseyviper]

After driving in stop and go traffic today and getting on it a little 1 to 2nd gear action, pulled in my driveway and this is where she sat..Much better than the previous situation.

[ViperTony]

I had bought a 180 t-stat thinking the stock one was in there, but it wasn't so that's why I put a new 160 back in. I have a aluminum radiator and so far it runs fine, but I just bought the car in November so I haven't driven it much. I am finishing putting it back together, had a small leak on the timing chain cover, so I figured I'd change the t-stat and all the hoses while it was apart.
And yes I had the cowl off to reach the connectors behind the coil.
What vented cowl do you have? I like that idea.

It's the vented cowl from AutoForm. http://www.autoformgroup.com/autofor...category_id=31 If you decide to install this you'll need to remove the seal/weatherstripping from the existing cowl and glue it on to the vented cowl. Easy to do.

[Dajerseyviper]

It's the vented cowl from AutoForm. http://www.autoformgroup.com/autofor...category_id=31 If you decide to install this you'll need to remove the seal/weatherstripping from the existing cowl and glue it on to the vented cowl. Easy to do.

I think he might have meant that square big hood vent they make.It goes in the center of the hood and you have to cut a big hole in it..

[challenger]

It's the vented cowl from AutoForm. http://www.autoformgroup.com/autofor...category_id=31 If you decide to install this you'll need to remove the seal/weatherstripping from the existing cowl and glue it on to the vented cowl. Easy to do.

Thanks. It's hard to tell what it looks like on the web site.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

I KNEW IT WAS NOT the T-STAT that made great cooling....not happnin!!!!

[Dajerseyviper]

I KNEW IT WAS NOT the T-STAT that made great cooling....not happnin!!!!

I have to disagree slightly. The Before picture was Only the radiator and fluid flush. After the cooling fans mod, not much of a drastic difference in the temps. After the T-stat, huge difference in temps in conjunction with the fan mods. I might for arguments sake, flash my PCM back to stock to see the difference just the fans make.

****I also forgot to mention I drilled (4) 1/4" holes in the new Tstat housing just in case it ever gets stuck it will allow for some coolant flow to the heads and it also from what i understand, helps to burp the air out of the system..

[Vprbite]

I KNEW IT WAS NOT the T-STAT that made great cooling....not happnin!!!!

That's exactly what I was thinking. It was a collection of things done at the same time that, when working in concert, have a noticeable effect. You basically upgraded your entire cooling system and the thermostat was a part of that. All in all, great mods and good choice. Just the thermostat isn't responsible for all of it.

And doesn't drilling holes in it make it "always on" now as a thermostat, not just at 180 degree?

[Dajerseyviper]

That's exactly what I was thinking. It was a collection of things done at the same time that, when working in concert, have a noticeable effect. You basically upgraded your entire cooling system and the thermostat was a part of that. All in all, great mods and good choice. Just the thermostat isn't responsible for all of it.

But keep in mind I did the modifications in 3 very distinct and separate steps, taking note on what effect they had. When the final step, the T-Stat was done it made the biggest and most noticable difference in cooling temps and efficiency. Even with the fan mod, the temps still hovered around the final hash mark past the 190* mark.

And doesn't drilling holes in it make it "always on" now as a thermostat, not just at 180 degree?

No,they act more like a slight bypass. The holes are so small they can not duplicate the effect of a wide open thermostat. They only act as a bypass in case it gets stuck in the closed position, and they also make it easier for the air to burp from the system.

[99RT10]

No,they act more like a slight bypass. The holes are so small they can not duplicate the effect of a wide open thermostat. They only act as a bypass in case it gets stuck in the closed position, and they also make it easier for the air to burp from the system.

someone might have already mentioned it, but it also helps with burbing the system. Do you have pictures of where you drilled the holes?

[Dajerseyviper]

someone might have already mentioned it, but it also helps with burbing the system. Do you have pictures of where you drilled the holes?

I got the idea from this guy..I didnt take a picture before I installed it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WFSb87wmu0M

[AZTVR]

No,they act more like a slight bypass. The holes are so small they can not duplicate the effect of a wide open thermostat. They only act as a bypass in case it gets stuck in the closed position, and they also make it easier for the air to burp from the system.

Did you happen to test your old thermostat? Perhaps it was not operating properly. When I replaced my 190 thermostat with a 180, I did put both in boiling water. I noted that the OEM 190 thermostat did not seem to open as far as the aftermarket (NAPA?) 180 thermostat. I didn't notice any cooling improvement; but, I was doing it during summer in Arizona; so, I wasn't expecting any improvement if the old tstat was not failed.

[Dajerseyviper]

Did you happen to test your old thermostat? Perhaps it was not operating properly. When I replaced my 190 thermostat with a 180, I did put both in boiling water. I noted that the OEM 190 thermostat did not seem to open as far as the aftermarket (NAPA?) 180 thermostat. I didn't notice any cooling improvement; but, I was doing it during summer in Arizona; so, I wasn't expecting any improvement if the old tstat was not failed.

I did not test it but that is a valid point, and one that I did suspect greatly, which is why I opted to change it anyway.

[Bugman Jeff]

No,they act more like a slight bypass. The holes are so small they can not duplicate the effect of a wide open thermostat. They only act as a bypass in case it gets stuck in the closed position, and they also make it easier for the air to burp from the system.

Given the content of that guy's other videos, I would question everything he recommends. If the holes are too small to cause overcooling by bypassing the thermostat, they are also too small to prevent overheating should the thermostat stick closed. The only thing gained is easier burping, and that can be accomplished with one tiny hole.

Interesting tidbit on just how much volume it takes to cool a car: The first LT1 Caprices and Impala SS's(the '94s) had a hose going from the coolant reservoir to the radiator, bypassing the thermostat. This hose was only a 3/8" hose. It's intended purpose was to bleed any air out of the radiator into the reservoir. It was found that at highway speeds this small hose flowed enough coolant to over cool the engine, so a TSB was issued to block it off, and all subsequent models had this hose eliminated.

[Dajerseyviper]

One quick question, I have been smelling coolant so I decided to inspect my work and tighten the hose clamps. I noticed what appears to be coolant spots on the the side of the reservoir tank leading down into the engine compartment. The only culprit I could see would be a worn seal on the radiator cap, or a slight crack somewhere in the tank, which I do not foresee being the issue.. So to eliminate the radiator cap thing, can I just use a standard 17 lb radiator cap from Moroso, or do I have to get some VIPER SPECIFIC magical cap that only fits vipers and is only sold by VIPER SPECIALISTS with a heavy VIPER TAX???

[stuntman]

Generic will work. I have an ATP cap with a sacrificial anode from Roe Racing, but its the same off the shelf ATP part.

[AZTVR]

One quick question, I have been smelling coolant so I decided to inspect my work and tighten the hose clamps. I noticed what appears to be coolant spots on the the side of the reservoir tank leading down into the engine compartment. The only culprit I could see would be a worn seal on the radiator cap, or a slight crack somewhere in the tank, which I do not foresee being the issue.

Make sure that the hose to the overflow is clamped pretty well since it does carry coolant out of the system gets hot enough. Another spot that is a weak point; but, would result in major spewage, is at the heater valve. Those hoses, or at least one of them are known to back off due to the OEM pinch clamp not clamping well enough after some years.