Coolant Drain and Fill ?'s

[01sapphirebob]

O.k. so I'm trying to become a bit more handy with the cars and am trying to tackel as many of the fluids as I can. I've been reading my service manual and reading what I can here but I think I get more confused as I read. Lol So I have some questions.

How are you all draining the coolant? I know theres two plugs on the engine block and i'm straight on that but where else are you all draining the coolant from? The service manual says to use the drain plug by the left frame rail but I've heard not to use that as you could damage it when opening it.

Filling the coolant. Same here. Get a little confused. I'm assuming the procedure to follow is the one in the service manual. Open the bleeder screw by the t-stat to let any air out and fill with fresh coolant at the pressure bottle (located on the pass. side front wheel cover) until I see coolant coming up out of the bleeder hole on the t-stat. Button everything up and drive it for an hour. Level may drop and if it does fill pressure bottle back up if necessary?

One thing I get really confused on is the overflow bottle (located in the pass. side of the fasic). When does that come into play?

Also...how much coolant will it take?

thanks for any and all pointers!!

BTW...Car is a '01 RT/10

[PittsburghRT]

I was told by a Chuck Tator to pull the lower radiator hose to drain the rad.

[LifeIsGood]

This was the method that I used. I'm very anal about keeping the viper clean, so those that realize that it's just a car can ignore some of the steps. I put it together by reading numerous threads and talking to Sean Roe.
Bleeding the coolant system was very easy for me since I installed the ROE Racing upper radiator hose bleeder kit.

I purchased 4 gallons of distilled water for the flush.
I purchased 2 gallons of Peak Global LifeTime (gold jug) and 2 gallons of distilled water for the final fill. I used a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water.

My method:

Install the ROE Racing upper radiator hose bleeder kit in the new upper radiator hose
Install the new upper radiator hose
Install a new radiator cap

Drain the cooling system

Shield the accessory drive belt and pulleys with shop towels (coolant should not come into contact with these surfaces)
Remove the coolant pressure bottle cap
Ensure the heater control valve is in the open position (turn the heater on)
Open the bleeder valve on the upper radiator hose
Raise the viper via the lift
Position a plastic tarp on the floor under the front half of the viper
Drain the radiator

Position the drain tank funnel under the lower radiator hose connection with the radiator
Remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator
Drain the coolant/water into the drain tank

Passenger side cylinder block drain

Remove the passenger side exhaust sensor (22 mm wrench) and position it out of the way
Put a piece of painters tape over the sensor hole in the exhaust
Remove the heat shield cover that is just below the drain plug (1/2" wrench)
Cover the wiring that was protected by the heat shield cover with painters tape
To protect the surrounding area from coolant/water, make a drain shield by cutting a 2" hole in the middle of a piece of plastic drop cloth that is approximately 3' x 4'
Position the hole around the cylinder head plug and tape the plastic drain shield around the hole
Position the rest of the plastic drain shield so that the surrounding undercarriage areas are protected from draining coolant/water; tape off the drain shield to keep it in place
Position the drain tank funnel under the passenger side cylinder block drain plug
Remove the passenger side cylinder block drain plug (5/16" pipe plug socket) located behind the exhaust manifold
Drain the coolant/water into the drain tank

Driver side cylinder block drain

Repeat the passenger side for the driver side (minus the heat shield cover)

Connect the lower radiator hose to the radiator
Remove the passenger side plastic drain shield
Remove the driver side plastic drain shield
Install the passenger side cylinder block drain plug (use PTFE tape)
Install the heat shield cover
Install the passenger side exhaust sensor
Install the driver side cylinder block drain plug (use PTFE tape)
Install the driver side exhaust sensor
Lower the viper via the lift
Remove and clean the overflow tank located in the front fascia
Install the overflow tank

Fill the cooling system

Fill the overflow bottle half full with coolant/water
Ensure the heater control valve is in the open position (turn the heater on)
Open the bleeder valve on the upper radiator hose
Slowly fill the coolant pressure bottle with coolant/water
Continue filling the cooling system (this process goes very slow towards the end) until the coolant/water level is just below the level of the drain to the overflow bottle
Fill until the coolant/water semi-fills the upper radiator hose or you just can't get any more in the coolant pressure bottle
Close the bleeder valve in the upper radiator hoss
Remove the shop towels that were protecting the accessory drive belt and pulleys
Install the cap on the coolant pressure bottle
Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes to get it warm (100+ degrees, the thermostat won’t open until the engine temperature gets above 190 or so), to pressurize the system and move the air into the upper radiator hose
Turn off the engine
Place a shop towel under the upper radiator hose bleed valve
Open the valve in the upper radiator hose to bleed any trapped air in the cooling system
Add coolant/water to the pressure coolant tank
Close the bleeder valve in the upper radiator hose
Remove the shop towel that is under the upper radiator hose bleed valve
Repeat: start, stop, bleed, add coolant/water

End of method.

I also (after the flush, before the final fill):

Removed, cleaned and re-installed the coolant pressure bottle
Installed a new water pump
Installed new water pump hoses (2 smaller ones)
Installed a new lower radiator hose
Replaced the hose that runs from the coolant pressure bottle to the overflow bottle
Replaced spring clamps with worm clamps
Installed worm clamps to some connections that had no clamps

[LifeIsGood]

One thing I get really confused on is the overflow bottle (located in the pass. side of the fasic). When does that come into play?

It probably should be flushed which entails removing the front fascia.

You'll need to fill it also. You can fill it by disconnecting the top tube at the coolant pressure bottle in the engine bay. Use a very small funnel and keep track of the level in the bottle using the hole in the wheel well in front of the passenger tire. You can dangle a small flashlight into the hole and shine it on the bottle. You'll be able to see the level of coolant via the level slot in the wheel well.

[01sapphirebob]

If I dont have the ROE hose woukd i just open the bleeder screw thats by the t-stat?

Also...is there a way to get the old coolant/water out of the overflow bottle without removing the fascia? Can it be sucked out?

[LifeIsGood]

I've never heard of people using the bleeder screw. I have heard of people purging the air by squeezing the upper radiator hose. The viper cooling system is a closed system that will eventually purge itself. The coolant recovery bottle will need to be monitored while you put the viper through the air purge cycles.

The inlet to the coolant recovery bottle is at the top, and there's a purge spout so it's not constantly under vacuum. I've also never heard of anyone vacuuming out the bottle.

[SA Heat]

If I dont have the ROE hose woukd i just open the bleeder screw thats by the t-stat?

Also...is there a way to get the old coolant/water out of the overflow bottle without removing the fascia? Can it be sucked out?

There's no need to remove the facia. I used one of these....you can get them at Autozone, Walmart, etc....works like a charm.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W1145?seid=srese2

[01sapphirebob]

There's no need to remove the facia. I used one of these....you can get them at Autozone, Walmart, etc....works like a charm.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W1145?seid=srese2

How did you hook it up to get the fluid out of the overflow bottle?

[Sybil TF]

This is what I did, well I watched lol
1) Drain coolant from disconnecting lower rad hose along with removing engine bock plugs.

2)Used a shop vac and a reducer hose funnel to evacuate the coolant in the coolant recovery bottle then fill with distilled water to flush system.

3) Repeat step 1 draining distilled water

4) Reconnect hose and block plugs. Connect "AIRLIFT" tool to coolant pressure bottle and evacuate all air and left over distilled water from system.

5) Fill system with Evan's coolant and add coolant to the recovery bottle from the hose end on the coolant pressure bottle. Fill to the top.

6) Run system with coolant pressure cap off for a few minutes and filling as the system sucks the coolant in.When you can't add anymore coolant screw cap on and run car letting system pressurize and reach operating temperature.

7) Let car cool down and remove coolant pressure cap. When you do this you will hear system suck coolant from the coolant recovery bottle. About 3/4 was sucked into the system on mine. Fill again by disconnecting the coolant pressure bottle hose just below the cap with someone looking through the hole in the front wheel well (removed wheel for easy access)with a flashlight watching the level or fill until it until it overflows if you don't have a helper.

8) Run car again until operating temp and let cool down. Remove cap again and let system suck coolant in from the coolant recovery bottle.

9) At this point my system was packed full and wouldn't take anymore from the recovery bottle on the 3rd try. No, air , no overheating. Left recovery bottle level a little more full than the line says but no big deal.

Don't be a cheap skate, use Evan's coolant in your baby...

[SA Heat]

How did you hook it up to get the fluid out of the overflow bottle?

I reached into the access port, opened up the overflow bottle lid, and fed the hose pulling vacuum into the bottle until you get it to the bottom....then pumped out the coolant with the "out" hose into a gallon jug. If you have huge hands, it might be a little tight, but it was really easy to do. Pulling off the right front wheel (or at least turning it) may make getting to everything easier too. Oh, and I laid a small LED flashlight inside the access port/facia when I was doing everything so I could see what I was doing better. It's really easy.....all you need is one of those cheap pumps and you can get just about every drop out.

[Sybil TF]

.all you need is one of those cheap pumps and you can get just about every drop out.

Shop vac will suck it dry...

[95Viper]

THE BEST WAY to empty system and fill it back and have system air free on the 1st try....

http://www.tooltopia.com/uview-550500.aspx

[Dajerseyviper]

I did both block plugs, 10mm squar drive socket and the plug on the bottom of the radiator, then the hoses. Otherwise you get coolant all over the damn place pulling the hose..

[Sybil TF]

THE BEST WAY to empty system and fill it back and have system air free on the 1st try....

http://www.tooltopia.com/uview-550500.aspx

Yeah I said that...

[challenger]

I used the bleeder screw on the t-stat, worked good for me. Just fill slowly till antifreeze comes out.

[01sapphirebob]

Thanks for all thie info folks! Keep any tips/trick coming.

Think I'm gonna be able to do this with everyones help.

[01sapphirebob]

This was the method that I used. I'm very anal about keeping the viper clean, so those that realize that it's just a car can ignore some of the steps. I put it together by reading numerous threads and talking to Sean Roe.
Bleeding the coolant system was very easy for me since I installed the ROE Racing upper radiator hose bleeder kit.

I purchased 4 gallons of distilled water for the flush.
I purchased 2 gallons of Peak Global LifeTime (gold jug) and 2 gallons of distilled water for the final fill. I used a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water.

My method:

Install the ROE Racing upper radiator hose bleeder kit in the new upper radiator hose
Install the new upper radiator hose
Install a new radiator cap

Drain the cooling system

Shield the accessory drive belt and pulleys with shop towels (coolant should not come into contact with these surfaces)
Remove the coolant pressure bottle cap
Ensure the heater control valve is in the open position (turn the heater on)
Open the bleeder valve on the upper radiator hose
Raise the viper via the lift
Position a plastic tarp on the floor under the front half of the viper
Drain the radiator

Position the drain tank funnel under the lower radiator hose connection with the radiator
Remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator
Drain the coolant/water into the drain tank

Passenger side cylinder block drain

Remove the passenger side exhaust sensor (22 mm wrench) and position it out of the way
Put a piece of painters tape over the sensor hole in the exhaust
Remove the heat shield cover that is just below the drain plug (1/2" wrench)
Cover the wiring that was protected by the heat shield cover with painters tape
To protect the surrounding area from coolant/water, make a drain shield by cutting a 2" hole in the middle of a piece of plastic drop cloth that is approximately 3' x 4'
Position the hole around the cylinder head plug and tape the plastic drain shield around the hole
Position the rest of the plastic drain shield so that the surrounding undercarriage areas are protected from draining coolant/water; tape off the drain shield to keep it in place
Position the drain tank funnel under the passenger side cylinder block drain plug
Remove the passenger side cylinder block drain plug (5/16" pipe plug socket) located behind the exhaust manifold
Drain the coolant/water into the drain tank

Driver side cylinder block drain

Repeat the passenger side for the driver side (minus the heat shield cover)

Connect the lower radiator hose to the radiator
Remove the passenger side plastic drain shield
Remove the driver side plastic drain shield
Install the passenger side cylinder block drain plug (use PTFE tape)
Install the heat shield cover
Install the passenger side exhaust sensor
Install the driver side cylinder block drain plug (use PTFE tape)
Install the driver side exhaust sensor
Lower the viper via the lift
Remove and clean the overflow tank located in the front fascia
Install the overflow tank

Fill the cooling system

Fill the overflow bottle half full with coolant/water
Ensure the heater control valve is in the open position (turn the heater on)
Open the bleeder valve on the upper radiator hose
Slowly fill the coolant pressure bottle with coolant/water
Continue filling the cooling system (this process goes very slow towards the end) until the coolant/water level is just below the level of the drain to the overflow bottle
Fill until the coolant/water semi-fills the upper radiator hose or you just can't get any more in the coolant pressure bottle
Close the bleeder valve in the upper radiator hoss
Remove the shop towels that were protecting the accessory drive belt and pulleys
Install the cap on the coolant pressure bottle
Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes to get it warm (100+ degrees, the thermostat won’t open until the engine temperature gets above 190 or so), to pressurize the system and move the air into the upper radiator hose
Turn off the engine
Place a shop towel under the upper radiator hose bleed valve
Open the valve in the upper radiator hose to bleed any trapped air in the cooling system
Add coolant/water to the pressure coolant tank
Close the bleeder valve in the upper radiator hose
Remove the shop towel that is under the upper radiator hose bleed valve
Repeat: start, stop, bleed, add coolant/water

End of method.

I also (after the flush, before the final fill):

Removed, cleaned and re-installed the coolant pressure bottle
Installed a new water pump
Installed new water pump hoses (2 smaller ones)
Installed a new lower radiator hose
Replaced the hose that runs from the coolant pressure bottle to the overflow bottle
Replaced spring clamps with worm clamps
Installed worm clamps to some connections that had no clamps

LIG...thanks for the detailed info. I'm trying to keep my car as stock as possible so I wount have the ROE bleeder hose.

Appreciate all the help!!!

[01sapphirebob]

This is what I did, well I watched lol
1) Drain coolant from disconnecting lower rad hose along with removing engine bock plugs.

2)Used a shop vac and a reducer hose funnel to evacuate the coolant in the coolant recovery bottle then fill with distilled water to flush system.

3) Repeat step 1 draining distilled water

4) Reconnect hose and block plugs. Connect "AIRLIFT" tool to coolant pressure bottle and evacuate all air and left over distilled water from system.

5) Fill system with Evan's coolant and add coolant to the recovery bottle from the hose end on the coolant pressure bottle. Fill to the top.

6) Run system with coolant pressure cap off for a few minutes and filling as the system sucks the coolant in.When you can't add anymore coolant screw cap on and run car letting system pressurize and reach operating temperature.

7) Let car cool down and remove coolant pressure cap. When you do this you will hear system suck coolant from the coolant recovery bottle. About 3/4 was sucked into the system on mine. Fill again by disconnecting the coolant pressure bottle hose just below the cap with someone looking through the hole in the front wheel well (removed wheel for easy access)with a flashlight watching the level or fill until it until it overflows if you don't have a helper.

8) Run car again until operating temp and let cool down. Remove cap again and let system suck coolant in from the coolant recovery bottle.

9) At this point my system was packed full and wouldn't take anymore from the recovery bottle on the 3rd try. No, air , no overheating. Left recovery bottle level a little more full than the line says but no big deal.

Don't be a cheap skate, use Evan's coolant in your baby...

Thanks for the tips Sybil. The AIRLIFT tool seem pretty cool but unfportunately I don't have any air in my garage to make it work.

[Sybil TF]

You can just keep burping the system by running the car , letting it cool, remove the cap and let it release the air and suck more coolant from the overflow bottle. Bleeder valve on the Roe coolant hose or on the T-stat helps I hear. Keep an eye on the overflow level. It will draw from it as the system runs but you can overheat if system isn't packed with coolant or you have an air pocket in the system. AIRLIFT just eliminates the air pocket issue.

[Sybil TF]

By the way, when you have had to deal with a hard to burp C-4 you know what this becomes easy

[Dajerseyviper]

You can just keep burping the system by running the car , letting it cool, remove the cap and let it release the air and suck more coolant from the overflow bottle. Bleeder valve on the Roe coolant hose or on the T-stat helps I hear. Keep an eye on the overflow level. It will draw from it as the system runs but you can overheat if system isn't packed with coolant or you have an air pocket in the system. AIRLIFT just eliminates the air pocket issue.

I just filled it my system with the car running, let it get warm, shut it off and kept filling..

[Sybil TF]

You will have to keep doing it until the system is packed with coolant and any air pockets are burped out. Keep and eye on the coolant overflow level. If it goes empty and the system isn't burped you will suck air back in.

[Dajerseyviper]

You will have to keep doing it until the system is packed with coolant and any air pockets are burped out. Keep and eye on the coolant overflow level. If it goes empty and the system isn't burped you will suck air back in.

I add it as its running and keep adding it, you can see the bubble burp out of the system as your doing it..

[Sybil TF]

I add it as its running and keep adding it, you can see the bubble burp out of the system as your doing it..

Put the cap back on and let it pressurize as well and reach operating temp after it won't take any more coolant in the fill bottle.Then let it cool down enough to remove cap. It will probably suck coolant out of the overflow considerably so make sure it is full.

[Blue96GTS]

OK, while we're here - what's the best coolant to be running these days?? Who is this Evan and why do we like his/her coolant??