They are brandy snifters, so they look like they belong to the man of the house
I definitely prefer brandy over antifreeze. But wondering now whether there is a difference in taste of these 2 products??
Here's where I bought it. They also ship to the UK. Maybe this is an option for you!?
http://www.ato24.de/
Their website is also available in English... ;-)
I did a complete flush of the system over the weekend. I also replaced hoses with silicone and a new OEM Radiator cap. Took the fascia off, cleaned the recovery tank, flushed with distilled water multiple times until it flushed out clear. Filled with Mopar Red 5 year mix with distilled water ~50/50 mix.
How long did it take you to burp the air out of the system? It seems that it is taking me forever to get all the air pockets out. At first, I tried running the car without the pressure cap on, but coolant started pouring out. Then I would run the car until it started to overheat, let cool, then burp and refill. I must have repeated this like 7 times already, but it seems as though air is still in the system. Car continues to overheat after driving around the block. Also, it doesn't seem to be pulling any coolant from the recovery tank. The level appears to be the same as when I filled it the first time. The system is definitely pressurized as when I pull the radiator cap I can hear the "Suck". Should I just continue on and on to burp? Or do I need to invest in the air lift tool? I've probably put 2.5 gallons into the system so far.
Was the car fine before you did the flush?
This is why using the funnel suggested earlier in the thread is a good method. http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-24680.aspx
All the various methods are talked about in this thread. What worked for me is to put the Lisle funnel in place of the pressure cap. I also removed the hose from the heater valve and put a funnel on it.(the hose that goes direct to the heater core). Then I filled the system from the Lisle funnel; but, don't get that tank full yet; and then fill from the heater hose funnel. Then connect the heater hose. I can't remember if I burp the upper hose with the engine cold. Couldn't hurt but think that it probably does not doing anything with T-stat closed? Then run the engine with Lisle funnel in place. You will see the coolant expand into the Lisle funnel as it warms up and thermostat is still closed. Then it drops down when the T-stat opens (I assume.) Then add coolant as it heats up further and reaches equilibrium. Burp the upper hose with the engine hot when the T-stat is open. Top off the coolant, shut off the engine, remove the Lisle funnel, and put the cap on so that it sucks back from the fascia tank when it cools.
Like has been said before, make sure that the little hose going from the pressurized tank to the fascia tank is clamped well enough that it won't suck air into the system at the connections during cool down.
Last edited by AZTVR; 11-02-2015 at 11:58 AM.
The car would start to overheat sometimes upon initial startup if it kept idling with no movement, but would go back to normal once I started to move. Figured there was probably an air that would self purge.
Thanks for the info. I'll pick up one of those funnels. While I had the fascia off, I put a new ring clamp on the line to the recovery bottle. I also have a ring clamp on the line coming off the radiator cap. I also filled the heater lines first until it starting pouring out the other side.
The funnel is a great tool for doing the coolant. It'll be the best $20 you spend. Ive used on my wifes CRV and it worked like a charm.
If you had a problem before I doubt is air. Infamous bad water pump or t-stat or plugged radiator...These cars gum up quick from what I have read but I use Evan's coolant in all my cars.
Sybil TF, IRT Evans, which one of their coolants did you use? How many gallons do I need to purchase? Thanks for your write up and subsequent info you and the others have provided. Jim
I had a hard time getting all the air out after I did a drain and fill. The temp gauge would show the engine temp go from normal to overheat very fast. I tried to burp the air out by squeezing the upper rad hose but could not get all the air out. I then opened the bleeder screw on the thermostat housing,topped up the fluid till it started to come out of bleeder hole,reinstalled screw and the the car did not overheat any more.Using the bleeder screw worked for me.
Sybil TF, excellent; thank you. This is good timing since I will be changing all my fluids next week.
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