Coolant Drain and Fill ?'s

[Blue96GTS]

If it's good enough for Jay Leno, it's probably good for me!

[Sybil TF]

OK, while we're here - what's the best coolant to be running these days?? Who is this Evan and why do we like his/her coolant??

Google it or ask Jay Leno or my man-slave who was using it before him...

[Thawk97]

Google it or ask Jay Leno or my man-slave who was using it before him...

So - this Evans stuff is new to me too. I'm curious though - it says it builds up much less pressure - doesn't that impact the thermostat pretty significantly (since that's essentially a pressure based spring system)?

Experts who've been using Evans?

[Dajerseyviper]

So - this Evans stuff is new to me too. I'm curious though - it says it builds up much less pressure - doesn't that impact the thermostat pretty significantly (since that's essentially a pressure based spring system)?

Experts who've been using Evans?

I have been using it and it works as normal coolant would. It does run about 5-8 degrees hotter than a conventional blend. Also I have never heard of any thermostats being pressure dependent, I believe it is more the temperature than anything. I have boiled thermostats on the stove and watched them open and close.

[Thawk97]

I have been using it and it works as normal coolant would. It does run about 5-8 degrees hotter than a conventional blend. Also I have never heard of any thermostats being pressure dependent, I believe it is more the temperature than anything. I have boiled thermostats on the stove and watched them open and close.

Yes of course, I don't know what I was thinking haha - springs & pressure I guess... silly me

[Sybil TF]

So - this Evans stuff is new to me too. I'm curious though - it says it builds up much less pressure - doesn't that impact the thermostat pretty significantly (since that's essentially a pressure based spring system)?

Experts who've been using Evans?

It is great because you get no more corrosion in your cooling system and it never has to be flushed again. I thought BS until we had an engine rebuilt and it was spotless inside the block and rad after 8 years. Also you will probably never have to replace the waterpump or heater core.

Some say it runs a little hotter but I have it in my Viper, Challenger, Ram and Dart and it runs cooler so I don't know but not from my experience but it wouldn't matter anyway since it has a boiling point of around 360*!!!

[01sapphirebob]

UPDATE!!!

So i went ahead and did the coolant on my GEN II today. What a never racking experience. I was so worried about screwing something up with the engine.

Anyway...

I drained the coolant as everyone suggested by pulling the lower rad hose. What a mess. Because of the shape of my oil drain container and the fact I was to apprehensive to pull the hose completely off once coolant started to flow it got everywhere. Even in the fascia. Got as much out as I could but we'll see over the next coupe days. Then I filled the recovery bottle about halfway full. I know this was against some peoples advice but it was suggested by others.

Now this is the part that some may disagree with but to fill the system I used one of those Lisle Spill free funnels.

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Sp...l+proof+funnel

These are pretty cool. What you do is attach the funnel to the pressure bottle and start filling the sysytem. When filling and you start to get close to a "full system you will the coolant start to build up in the funnel. Directions say to fill it till the funnel itself is about 1/3rd full. Once it's 1/3rd full start the engine (make sure you have the heater onas well) and let it idle. DO NOT rev the engine. As the car is running you will see air purging itself from the system. Very cool. Make sure you have coolant at the ready because once the t-stat opens you will see the coolant in the funnel drop down. Once this start happening make sure you start dilling the funnel to put more coolant into the system.

Once the funnel is 1/3rd full again and the t-stat closes watch the funnel. I let the t-stat open up one more time. More coolant may be taken from the funnel. Just be ready. Once the t-stat closes and there no bubbles coming up in the coolant AND the level is still at 1/3rd put the plunger that comes with the funnel in the funnel hole and shut the car off. let the system cool before you try to remove the funnel otherwise you will get hot coolant all over the place. Once the car has cooled down you can remove the funnel and put the coolant still in the funnel back into the container it came from and you're all set.

Things I didn't do...

I didn't do the block plugs. I also didn't fluch the system with distilled water. At least not this time. I was to worries about messing up the block over those plugs that I decided against it this time. I also didn't flush the system as I didn;t think it was necessary. At least not this time. If I want the system flushed i'll do that next time and maybe take it to my Viper tech.

I'm gonna take the car out now for about an hour and then let her cool down and check the level in the bottle after cool down. If I need to add more then I will.


All in all it wasn't that bad but it does make a mess so be ready for it.

[My98RT10]

What type of coolant did you use?

[01sapphirebob]

What type of coolant did you use?

I went with the MOPAR 3 year coolant (green).

[Sybil TF]

I went with the MOPAR 3 year coolant (green).

in three years put Evan's in it and be done with it...

[My98RT10]

I went with the MOPAR 3 year coolant (green).

That is the one I have in mine too. But it is impossible to get here in Germany meanwhile and I am due for a change.

[01sapphirebob]

That is the one I have in mine too. But it is impossible to get here in Germany meanwhile and I am due for a change.

Stupid question. Can you get itnthrough Amazon?

[Matt M, Pa]

I too have the Airlift tool...but was thinking of getting the Lisle funnel. (Any excuse to buy a tool, right?) Glad to read a first hand report.

[My98RT10]

Stupid question. Can you get itnthrough Amazon?

Unfortunately not. There are some shops selling the Mopar 5 years formula (red) but the green stuff is not available. Also not from Chrysler dealerships. They have switched to Fiat products here, unfortunately. I am still trying to find a product that is green and has a compatible formulation that won't create any harm when mixed with the Mopar green stuff (which to my understanding basically means it is silicate based).

[01sapphirebob]

Unfortunately not. There are some shops selling the Mopar 5 years formula (red) but the green stuff is not available. Also not from Chrysler dealerships. They have switched to Fiat products here, unfortunately. I am still trying to find a product that is green and has a compatible formulation that won't create any harm when mixed with the Mopar green stuff (which to my understanding basically means it is silicate based).

I'd have to double check but you might be able to use the 5 year formula. Stand by...

[01sapphirebob]

UPDATE!

So yesterday after I got everything buttoned up I did take the car our for an hour drive. The T-stat seemed to move as it had before. No crazy up and down movements. I returned home after the drive and let the car cool for an hour or so. The system appeared to take some coolant from the overflow bottle but not a lot. After system had cooled I even opened up the pressure bottle to see if it would take more from the over flow bottle which it did not. So all in all I believe I got the system pretty full andf it appears to be operating as normal.

[Doug Nash]

9/28/15

Thanks all for the detailed options on changing the coolant. Next change on the fluids list for me. Questions on the Evans coolant changeover. Sounds like a solid option as it eliminates the water part of traditional coolant mixes:
1. Did you all use the 'Coolant Flush' as a step between the old coolant drain out and the Evans coolant fill? Supposed to help get the remaining water out of the system?
2. Which Evans coolant is correct/best for our cars? On Summit Racing site there are four main types: NPG-Original, Heavy Duty, High Performance and Powersports. I've included the link which shows these options and container - label descripts and colors.:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...g&autoview=SKU
Thank you in advance for clearing the haze..... Doug

[8.4L 154]

Unfortunately not. There are some shops selling the Mopar 5 years formula (red) but the green stuff is not available. Also not from Chrysler dealerships. They have switched to Fiat products here, unfortunately. I am still trying to find a product that is green and has a compatible formulation that won't create any harm when mixed with the Mopar green stuff (which to my understanding basically means it is silicate based).

Not sure if its available in Germany but i have been using the Comma three year stuff (G48) here in the UK, its a blueish green rather than the funky dayglow green of the mopar stuff, but like you we are stuck with Fiat fluids now unless we can find an old Mopar bottle sitting on a shelf somewhere and I have found that they don't always have an equivalent for the older stuff or even that the equivalents sheets they refer to being accurate (they tried to sell me ATF for power steering fluid on a 97)

[01sapphirebob]

9/28/15

Thanks all for the detailed options on changing the coolant. Next change on the fluids list for me. Questions on the Evans coolant changeover. Sounds like a solid option as it eliminates the water part of traditional coolant mixes:
1. Did you all use the 'Coolant Flush' as a step between the old coolant drain out and the Evans coolant fill? Supposed to help get the remaining water out of the system?
2. Which Evans coolant is correct/best for our cars? On Summit Racing site there are four main types: NPG-Original, Heavy Duty, High Performance and Powersports. I've included the link which shows these options and container - label descripts and colors.:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...g&autoview=SKU
Thank you in advance for clearing the haze..... Doug

While having no personal experience with the evans products when I was looking on their site they do sell something that they mentioned is required to "flush" the system to remove any old coolant BEFORE you put their product in.

[My98RT10]

Not sure if its available in Germany but i have been using the Comma three year stuff (G48) here in the UK, its a blueish green rather than the funky dayglow green of the mopar stuff, but like you we are stuck with Fiat fluids now unless we can find an old Mopar bottle sitting on a shelf somewhere and I have found that they don't always have an equivalent for the older stuff or even that the equivalents sheets they refer to being accurate (they tried to sell me ATF for power steering fluid on a 97)

Dave, after some more searching I came across a product, which is available here in Germany: Ford Motorcraft Premium Antifreeze/Coolant. According to the spec sheet it complies to Chrysler MS-7170 (which is the green Mopar Antifreeze) and is fluorescent green. I may use this next year when I am due for a change.

[8.4L 154]

Thanks My98RT10 I'll have to look into its availability in the UK. We are having a bit of a discussion at the moment on the UK forum pistonheads about the Fiat fluid situation at the moment so i'll post this info over there as well

[Sybil TF]

9/28/15

Thanks all for the detailed options on changing the coolant. Next change on the fluids list for me. Questions on the Evans coolant changeover. Sounds like a solid option as it eliminates the water part of traditional coolant mixes:
1. Did you all use the 'Coolant Flush' as a step between the old coolant drain out and the Evans coolant fill? Supposed to help get the remaining water out of the system?
2. Which Evans coolant is correct/best for our cars? On Summit Racing site there are four main types: NPG-Original, Heavy Duty, High Performance and Powersports. I've included the link which shows these options and container - label descripts and colors.:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/b...g&autoview=SKU
Thank you in advance for clearing the haze..... Doug

NPG plus. We used distilled water and flushed twice because my man-slave wanted to see what the big deal was on burping these cars. And of course....nothing lol

[Sybil TF]

The Evan's flush is great and absorbs the water out of the system but it is as expensive as the coolant. $40 per gallon. After flushing we just left the car sit for a day with the system open and let evaporation and gravity drip take its course. Then used an Air-lift tool to evacuate the system. I have Evan's in all four of my vehicles.

[Sybil TF]

One other thing, make sure you completely flush out the over flow tank on the the front passenger side. Easy way is to unplug the rubber hose on the fill tank that goes to it and shove a small tip funnel on the end and just turn on your hose and let it rip and overflow out the top until it is completely clean. Access to it is through av big circle plug on front passenger wheel well as you probably know.

[My98RT10]

Thanks My98RT10 I'll have to look into its availability in the UK. We are having a bit of a discussion at the moment on the UK forum pistonheads about the Fiat fluid situation at the moment so i'll post this info over there as well

Just today I got my 2 Gallons of Ford Premium Coolant. I compared its color with the Mopar Green (I had almost one gallon left from the previous change). As you can see, they look absolutely the same (Cheers!). And since the Ford product meets Chryslers MS-7170 I am pretty sure that there will be no issue using this product and a complete flush will not be necessary like when you would change to a different type of coolant.



Here are the specs from the Motorcraft website:





I know, there are other products meeting MS-7170 available here in Germany but those have a different color, some kind of blue/green and I wanted to keep the OEM color (call me picky)...