TR6060 swap info

[ACtechOPS]

Doing a TR6060 swap into a 2004, was wondering what the difference in gen 3/4 drive shaft was. Turns out they are exactly the same length, sot he slightly longer TR6060 has no impact. The difference is the diameter of the transmission yoke. Gen 3 is 1 11/16", gen 4 is 1 7/8". I guess 100 extra hp puts a little extra stress on some parts!

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[Steve M]

Good info...thanks!

[Timnineside]

Awesome, please keep posted. I know a few have been looking into the swap.

[ACtechOPS]

Transmission is out and just putting together my parts for the install. I'm actually the test mule for latamud, who has had the parts for six months but can't find the time. I know he likes to remove his tranny just for fun My install will be a little different, since I have an 04' with the crank trigger on the flywheel. My choice was to either have a custom clutch/flywheel built with the trigger ($1700), or install a single disc gen 3 clutch. I have a gen 3 spec stage 2+ clutch that I'm going to install. The adapter plate between the tranny and the bellhousing is approx 1/4" deeper on the TR6060, so since I'm using a single disc, I'm going to have a spacer made to move the slave cylinder closer to the clutch pack. This is also something latamud has talked extensively about, and the great expense involved but I think my machinist works for beers. I'll provide pics and some measurements when I get there, hopefully next week. I have fairly high expectations, I absolutely cannot stand my T56. Been running Redline D4 in it for the last 10,000miles and notice no difference. What did Jeremy Clarkson say - it's like the lever controlling the lock gates at a naval shipyard?

[LATAMUD]

Rick, I'll be watching for updates. Interesting find on the driveshaft/yoke, very good to know. Thank you.

[PaulP]

Update buds? or anymore info you can throw my way? thanks

[ACtechOPS]

Swap is done, technically no surprises. Replaced the diff while I was at with a 2008. A single disc 2004 clutch does in deed work with no issues. Because the 6060 has a slightly thicker adapter plate, had to put a .150" spacer under the throw bearing (from Summit, about 15$). Original bell housing, gen 4 drive shaft. Running Redline D4, shifts short and smooth, can rip through the gears and haven't blown a shift yet. Only surprise I wasn't expecting is what should have been the easiest part, hooking the drive shaft back up to the diff. Dodge in Canada does not sell a strap "Kit", but bolts and straps separately, about 70$ with tax. I choked on this, it's like the wiper blades all over. I bought 2 different strap kits for my car, one from Rock Auto, one from Napa. Both of them had imperial threaded bolts rather than metric. Pitch is so close you don't notice till you are 2/3 of the way in an getting tight. By then it's too late and you are going to be running a tap through it. Had to buy the Dodge stuff after all. Any questions, just ask, well worth the effort.

[PaulP]

Awesome thanks do you have a link for the proper strap kit?

[ACtechOPS]

Dodge p/n for bolt is 6502581 @ 9.75$ ea CAN, strap (clamp) is 4428723 @ 12.45$ each CAN so 63$ plus tax. Absolutely ridiculous. Also, if I did it again, I would try and source just the front yoke and use my old drive shaft. Save a couple of hundred. Some other parts from Canadian Dodge: Pilot bearing 53009181AB 37.30$
Crankshaft Seal 5037300AA 86.75$
Drive shaft 5037990AA 493.00$
Slave cylinder 5037357AB 538.00$

[PaulP]

Thanks for the list i will post some pics later this summer when i do the swap

[ACtechOPS]

Cool. When you unbolt the flywheel, don't spray anything into the crank flange bolt holes, they go clean through into the oil pan cavity and you will be doing an oil change. Keep this in mind when installing the bolts, must use loctite - it not only keeps the bolts in but also seals the oil in the pan area. Without loctite, oil will migrate down the bolts into clutch/flywheel area. Take a good look at your crank seal, if it needs changing, now is the time to do it. Any ideas what kind of clutch you are going to run?

[PaulP]

Ok sounds good, I have a fidenza flywheel and a spec 3+ on the shelf

[ACtechOPS]

My spec 2+ has no trouble holding the power, you should be good.

[v10addiction]

Why would you want to swap a T6060 for the T56?

If you try to build a 6060, you have to gut it all and replace just about everything with new T56 parts for strength.
If your after one of the 2010+ T6060 with better 5th gear, your stock T56 built with new gear ratios costs less than a new T6060 and is considerably stronger.

We have built dozens of both trans for racing, and the T6060 is weaker in every endurance test we have done.

We set world records with 2000hp+ on the T56 and the T6060 fails with normal road racing.

If you have a T56 Viper trans sitting around, trust me on this. It's worth more than a T6060.

Talk to GeForce about what it costs to build your stock T56 up before going the swap route.

GeForce has built countless numbers T56 trans for the biggest power makers in the Viper world.
If your running their trans on a street car, its like being super charged when you hit 5th gear against a stock ratio car.
Many gear ratio options are available for the T56.

If the T6060 swap is free or really damn cheap and your running a close to stock GEN 2 or 3, it might be cheaper to use the T6060.
Other wise your losing some great options.

Building a T6060 up costs more, because the swap everything out to T56 hardware.

We have built T56's for 5000lb Viper trucks with 1800hp and they hold up.

Talk to a trans builder about options before you jump on this band wagon.

[PaulP]

T56 vs T6060 comparison by rpm great read here is the link:

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/ght...guts-no-glory/