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  1. #51
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    I lined every nook and cranny of my sills with lava shield and wrapped the high flow cats in heat shield armor with stainless steel zip ties and the sills still get burning hot on shutdown. The problem isn't so much while it's running and moving, it's the lack of ventilation from the hot cats once the car is stopped and the heat builds. You have to ditch the cats all together if you really want to solve the problem.

    IMG_1133 by Rapidrezults, on Flickr
    Last edited by Rapidrezults; 10-07-2016 at 01:46 AM.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by donk_316 View Post
    ARH dude. Their headers and Corsa exhaust.
    That's what I have. Love the sound

  3. #53
    Quote Originally Posted by donk_316 View Post
    Has anyone gone through warranty over this? My car is starting to show signs of this excessive heat on the passenger side.

    I took it into dodge and they took pictures of it and now are waiting on "SRT engineer" phone call (that was 3 days ago.
    Yes I did. Good luck going through the dealership. When they said that they would have to remove the doors to get the panels off I ran for my life. I ended up doing a lot of leg work on my end and got Prefix to send me new panels under warranty. Factory paint. I ended up installing them and lining them up better than the factory. Took my time and ensured it was done perfect. I have a thread about it on here.

    Stock cats get very hot and cause the discoloration and sometimes blisters in the paint. Before installing the replacement panels I went catless. Never happened again. High flow cars should also stop it.

    My first set up replacement panels blistered up on the first run out. So they sent me another set but this time I removed all the cats. No issues anymore.
    Last edited by 7TH_SIGN; 10-07-2016 at 08:52 AM.

  4. #54
    Catch 22. Stock cats may cause blistering, modding or high flo cats to fix issue void warranty.

  5. #55
    Quote Originally Posted by donb View Post
    Any official word on this from FCA? I'd like to take factory delivery, and would have a 2,000 mile trip back home.
    You shouldn't have any issues with casual driving home in mild weather, but I understand the concern. If nothing else you could remove the 2 panels for your trip and put them in the trunk. Any other part that yellows is easily hidden.

    Additionally, worst case scenario the panels you remove can be easily shipped to prefix for repaint if you push for it under warranty.

    Capture.jpg

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperJon View Post
    Catch 22. Stock cats may cause blistering, modding or high flo cats to fix issue void warranty.

    This is my dilemma. Are there any exhaust solutions that don't require the Arrow ECU or a tune? Less worried about changing the exhaust than the ECU.

    Might try ceramic coating the inside of the panels and hope for the best.
    Last edited by SSGNRDZ_28; 10-07-2016 at 09:43 AM.

  7. #57
    Quote Originally Posted by SSGNRDZ_28 View Post
    This is my dilemma. Are there any exhaust solutions that don't require the Arrow ECU or a tune? Less worried about changing the exhaust than the ECU.

    Might try ceramic coating the inside of the panels and hope for the best.
    Before anyone suggest spark plug nonfoulers, they did not work for me. You will get a CEL with highflows. This was the reason I ultimately decided to go with an Arrow PCM.....so you can see how trying to keep my paint nice domino'd into a complete void of my warranty. Bullshit, but I own a viper (actually 2 as of next week!!!). I'll live.

  8. #58
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    Mar 2016
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    Flower Mound, TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSGNRDZ_28 View Post
    This is my dilemma. Are there any exhaust solutions that don't require the Arrow ECU or a tune? Less worried about changing the exhaust than the ECU.

    Might try ceramic coating the inside of the panels and hope for the best.
    My same dilemma. I decided to just let it happen, and eventually before the warranty expires I will have it warrantied then immediately swap the exhaust to get rid of the cats and have everything coated.

    I have found that Menzerna paintwork cleansing lotion cleans almost all of the yellowing off if I give it some love, which makes me think the yellowing is really only the top layer of the clear coat. I'm sure a good buff job by a detailer could get rid of it, but I don't want to keep removing clearcoat, so I'll stick with the cleansing lotion until I'm ready to solve the underlying issue.

  9. #59
    BTW....I think gutting the second cat (and not telling your dealer) will be a good solution to keep your warranty, cool the sills, and keep paint nice.......

  10. #60
    Quote Originally Posted by Rapidrezults View Post
    I lined every nook and cranny of my sills with lava shield and wrapped the high flow cats in heat shield armor with stainless steel zip ties and the sills still get burning hot on shutdown. The problem isn't so much while it's running and moving, it's the lack of ventilation from the hot cats once the car is stopped and the heat builds. You have to ditch the cats all together if you really want to solve the problem.

    IMG_1133 by Rapidrezults, on Flickr
    Oooooo get a piece of plywood under that stand bro, that floor too nice to have it damaged, can also damage concrete underneath

  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by BJG32 View Post
    BTW....I think gutting the second cat (and not telling your dealer) will be a good solution to keep your warranty, cool the sills, and keep paint nice.......
    Hadn't thought of that. Great idea. Wonder if simple O2 extenders would prevent the light?

  12. #62
    Quote Originally Posted by dewilmoth View Post
    Hadn't thought of that. Great idea. Wonder if simple O2 extenders would prevent the light?
    O2 extender = Spark Plug nonefouler

    Did not work for me!

  13. #63
    Many a second set of sills with some vents created for them... a la GTS-R


  14. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by BJG32 View Post
    O2 extender = Spark Plug nonefouler

    Did not work for me!
    I've been told the ones with a 90 degree elbow work better to get the O2 sensor completely out of the exhaust stream, but I have no experience with any of them.

  15. #65
    Quote Originally Posted by dewilmoth View Post
    I've been told the ones with a 90 degree elbow work better to get the O2 sensor completely out of the exhaust stream, but I have no experience with any of them.
    both of mine are 90 dgrees. no go for me.

  16. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by BJG32 View Post
    both of mine are 90 dgrees. no go for me.
    Well damn, scratch that idea then. Thanks for the info.

  17. #67
    Quote Originally Posted by BJG32 View Post
    O2 extender = Spark Plug nonefouler

    Did not work for me!
    They worked for me on the stock PCM. Which ones did you use?

    Quote Originally Posted by ViperJon View Post
    Catch 22. Stock cats may cause blistering, modding or high flo cats to fix issue void warranty.
    Unfortunately true.

  18. #68
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    Flower Mound, TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7TH_SIGN View Post
    They worked for me on the stock PCM. Which ones did you use?

    Unfortunately true.
    More importantly, which ones did you use?

  19. #69

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by BJG32 View Post
    I have those as well. Very well made and no code issues with the stock PCM in 1,300 miles so far. Crappy pics of them installed here: http://driveviper.com/forums/threads...l=1#post246658

  21. #71
    Quote Originally Posted by dewilmoth View Post
    More importantly, which ones did you use?
    I used these. They worked and I can confirm 1200 miles with them on and never a CEL.

    https://www.amazon.com/O2-Sensor-Spa.../dp/B00CZFCPQU

  22. #72
    Yup my White car has this as well and will visit the dealer before warranty is up to get it fixed and once that is done no reason not do to ARH and high flows to avoid it from happening again. I am hoping dealer will let my painter do the work vs them doing it.

  23. #73
    Two things I always do when I get back from a ride if possible. I always open the hood to vent the heat and I spray down the tires and sills with water. Probably doesn't do anything but I figure rather than the sills heat soaking for an hour getting them cooled off can't hurt.

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperJon View Post
    Two things I always do when I get back from a ride if possible. I always open the hood to vent the heat and I spray down the tires and sills with water. Probably doesn't do anything but I figure rather than the sills heat soaking for an hour getting them cooled off can't hurt.
    Good idea. Wet towels on the sills could keep the area cool as well.

  25. #75
    Quote Originally Posted by ViperJon View Post
    Two things I always do when I get back from a ride if possible. I always open the hood to vent the heat and I spray down the tires and sills with water. Probably doesn't do anything but I figure rather than the sills heat soaking for an hour getting them cooled off can't hurt.
    this is exactly what i do and im about to install a fan or two in garage floor to push air while hood open


 
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