Newbie: What needs to be done to low mile, stock Gen 1?

[hughesx]

Hello-

I'm seriously looking at buying my first viper- a 94 RT/10 with ~12k miles and completely stock- no mods or upgrades done. I've heard about several things that "should" be done to the car in order for it to be a reliable and safe (head gaskets, etc). Not wanting to significantly modify the car, I'd be interested in the forum experts' view on what this car would need and roughly how much I'll need to spend on it.

Thanks in advance.

[crackleking]

I own a 98 rt/10, and when I purchased it, it had 4,700 miles on it, and the first thing I had to do, even though my tires looked brand new, they were like hockey pucks. I had to get a set of four. So, you need to check your tires, and find out how old they are. More than five or six years old, they have to be replaced. Then, you have to find out about all your fluids, to see if they have to be replaced. Beyond this, I have to leave the rest to the mechanical experts, but I thought I start you off with this.

[Steve-Indy]

PLAN for updating head gaskets, timing chain cover gasket, and oil pan gasket...also, swap out OEM P/S bracket BEFORE it breaks. By now, you may need radiator repair/rebuild. So far, this would add up to about $3,500.00 from
an experienced Viper Tech.

[Fatboy 18]

If you get the car, what would be your intended usage? Garage queen or out and about show and shine? Like any low milage car, when things have been sitting there for a while, once you start to use it, keep an eye on oil seals, If the clutch pedal seems very spongy the Slave cylinder may need bleeding/ Swapping out? See if you can get under the car and check all the rubber gaiters on the drop links and steering rack for any splitting. you dont want any dust getting in those parts wearing things out.

Good Luck

[hughesx]

Thanks for the quick replies. I plan on driving the car around the local area and enjoying it, but not long freeway trips or commuter trips. It will not be a garage queen since I live in CA where the weather is very nice. I do not plan on modifying it beyond what is necessary (like the items noted above) as I want to keep it essentially stock.

[octopus]

I believe you already have a metal PS pulley but you might as well swap it out for a better one and a new bracket as well (from IPSCO). The brackets are known to break too. Change all fluids and take a couple days to really go over the car. Everything mentioned above is important as well.

Don't be afraid to take the Viper on the highway. Its a great cruiser!

So what are the best replacement tires? I've got a Gen II but might as well stick around to see what the best options are. Michelin Pilot Super Sports, R888's, Nitto Invos?

Edit*- hughesx, I'm going to start a thread on tire options in this section if you want to follow along in there. You and I will both have to do this so we might as well get a bunch of opinions on the topic.

[Fatboy 18]

I believe you already have a metal PS pulley but you might as well swap it out for a better one and a new bracket as well (from IPSCO). The brackets are known to break too. Change all fluids and take a couple days to really go over the car. Everything mentioned above is important as well.

Don't be afraid to take the Viper on the highway. Its a great cruiser!

So what are the best replacement tires? I've got a Gen II but might as well stick around to see what the best options are. Michelin Pilot Super Sports, R888's, Nitto Invos?

Edit*- hughesx, I'm going to start a thread on tire options in this section if you want to follow along in there. You and I will both have to do this so we might as well get a bunch of opinions on the topic.

Gen 1s have 17 inch wheels I do not believe Michelins Super Sport tires are available for the 17" OR 18" Wheels at this time. I believe you would have to look for Michelin Pilot Sport 2s

[octopus]

Gen 1s have 17 inch wheels I do not believe Michelins Super Sport tires are available for the 17" OR 18" Wheels at this time. I believe you would have to look for Michelin Pilot Sport 2s

Yes, I think you're correct. Another member also mentioned that. Well that eliminates one of the choices!

[VIPER BAZ UK]

Head gaskets for sure and a full fluids change .. Maybe pads if there original..

Gen 1 oil pan gaskets are now obsolete so be careful before you pull the oil pan off.....

[Lexciting]

You might want to look at the headlight switch also. Mine had a short in it and had to be replaced (common issue). Had mine go out on me a few years back. As previously said: change the P/S pulley (mine broke) and definitely those tires.

[RoyV101621]

Be kind to your 1994 transmission. Borg Warner used aluminium for the shift forks and they can be bent if abused.

[Dajerseyviper]

I thought the 1st gen had a metal PS pulley? and they went to plastic on Gen II... Just do what you see needs to be done.If the head gaskets are holding, I wouldn't touch them until they need to be done. Why fix whats not broke? Look for leaks, flush and repair the radiator accordingly for sure.. Might be clogged and need a re-core..

[BlknBlu]

welcome to the site, but your first order of business should be to join the VOA. Several parts forthe car are no longer produced and need to be found second hand. Look for bubbles on the side sills from corrosion.

Bruce

[VIPER BAZ UK]

Speak and get advice from Chuck Tator AKA the viper Wizard..

Gen I power steering pulleys are fine . No need to swap other than looks

[hughesx]

Thanks for all the great input. Still mulling it over, but hopefully will make the decision soon.

[GTSnake]

A lot of good advice here, but also a little not-so-good opinions. Having been a 94' owner who put 20k miles on the car and talked to chuck for hours, here is what you need to be prepared for:

1) Tires - Replace them if older than 7 years, no matter how good they look. DO NOT SKIP THIS, IT'S LIFE OR DEATH WITH A GEN1.
2) Motor and tranny mounts - Replace them ASAP. They are already bad. Going to Poly mounts is the best low-cost mod you will make.
3) Head Gaskets - Prepare to have it done at some point. But if you want to postpone it, re-torque all the head bolts now, it will buy you time.
4) Oil Pan and Valve cover gaskets - Prepare to replace them, they will leak.
5) Reverse lockout solenoid - Prepare to replace it when it goes bad. Will be hard to get into reverse.
6) Brake pads - Optional, but can make a difference by improving stopping power and cut down on dust.


Myths - Things that rarely go bad on your model year that gets confused with other years:

1) Timing cover gasket - Not a common problem for 94', this a problem on 96 - early 98. Only replace if it goes bad, but not likely.
2) P/S bracket and pulley - The power steering bracket is not a common problem on 94's. Don't bother changing pulley either, it's metal.
3) Tranny and shift forks - Nearly bulletproof. I tracked my 94' hard and never had tranny issues. 1 out of 100 might have a problem if abused.
4) Radiator - This depends on how often the previous owner changed the coolant. If he had it done at least every five years, your radiator will likely be fine. But do change the thermostat when you do the head gaskets. Go with a 170 degree stat, it will help keep the temps down.

[Dajerseyviper]

A lot of good advice here, but also a little not-so-good opinions. Having been a 94' owner who put 20k miles on the car and talked to chuck for hours, here is what you need to be prepared for:

1) Tires - Replace them if older than 7 years, no matter how good they look. DO NOT SKIP THIS, IT'S LIFE OR DEATH WITH A GEN1.
2) Motor and tranny mounts - Replace them ASAP. They are already bad. Going to Poly mounts is the best low-cost mod you will make.
3) Head Gaskets - Prepare to have it done at some point. But if you want to postpone it, re-torque all the head bolts now, it will buy you time.
4) Oil Pan and Valve cover gaskets - Prepare to replace them, they will leak.
5) Reverse lockout solenoid - Prepare to replace it when it goes bad. Will be hard to get into reverse.
6) Brake pads - Optional, but can make a difference by improving stopping power and cut down on dust.


Myths - Things that rarely go bad on your model year that gets confused with other years:

1) Timing cover gasket - Not a common problem for 94', this a problem on 96 - early 98. Only replace if it goes bad, but not likely.
2) P/S bracket and pulley - The power steering bracket is not a common problem on 94's. Don't bother changing pulley either, it's metal.
3) Tranny and shift forks - Nearly bulletproof. I tracked my 94' hard and never had tranny issues. 1 out of 100 might have a problem if abused.
4) Radiator - This depends on how often the previous owner changed the coolant. If he had it done at least every five years, your radiator will likely be fine. But do change the thermostat when you do the head gaskets. Go with a 170 degree stat, it will help keep the temps down.

I agree with everything except the 170* thermostat. i was told 170* is too low and only go as low as the 180*..Im actually procrastinating doing my thermostat which is sitting in the box ready to be installed next..It requires removal of the manifold. :-(

[GTSnake]

I agree with everything except the 170* thermostat. i was told 170* is too low and only go as low as the 180*..Im actually procrastinating doing my thermostat which is sitting in the box ready to be installed next..It requires removal of the manifold. :-(

On a GEN2, 180 is perfect. I found 170 to be perfect for GEN1, they get hotter and need more help. Unless you're planning on driving in the winter and using the heater, it will be fine.

[Dajerseyviper]

On a GEN2, 180 is perfect. I found 170 to be perfect for GEN1, they get hotter and need more help. Unless you're planning on driving in the winter and using the heater, it will be fine.

Yup...BTW off topic but What do you have done to your GTR??? Those things are fast..I used to have an 850WHP Nissan 350Z...10.0@138 in the 1/4 mile.

[Tom, F&L GoR]

More detail on the head gasket- the car originally came with green coolant that had silicate additives. Silicates coat the metal surfaces, but in 2-3 years flake off and this is why you were supposed to change it frequently. If you get the car, change to a long-life (pink, yellow, orange, etc) coolant which has much improved additives and will stall any rust or corrosion happening to the old gaskets. I bought my Gen 1 at 20K and it ran on long-life coolant just fine until I had heads off at ~90K to replace a failed lifter. The head gaskets were in very good shape.

Regarding the thermostat issue - if anyone thinks the engine is running "hot", do you mean it is running above 195F? If the radiator can't keep the coolant at 195F with a 195F thermostat, it's not going to keep the coolant lower than 195F with a lower thermostat. That will only happen with a bigger/better radiator. For any change in driveability, you would have to lower the coolant temperature enough to fool the ECU into a richer mixture because it thinks it's still warming up. Fundamentally you do want a warm cylinder wall to reduce combustion heat transfer to the coolant (up to the point just before knock.) What people might think they are getting with a cooler thermostat is cooler intake air, since cooler air was correlated to coolant temperature in the days of carburetors. However, take a look at the intake manifold - it is detached from the valley, has no coolant passage through it and no heated intake air. What you really want is guaranteed cold intake air, but you're hoping cooler coolant gives you cooler air. My 2 cents.