Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 76

Thread: Paxton G3 Build

  1. #1

    Paxton G3 Build

    I have not seen to many paxton builds and install pics, besides nineball tonys great write up, so i will post my mods as i go, goal here is stock internals this coming season on 8psi stock paxton pulley at 700rwhp, all being done at home in my garage. Paxton kit showed up from my friend Will RSI performance! American racing headers, SCT, upgraded heat exchanger, DLM water pump few other parts, I had todd block off the bottom bov and mount a turbosmart one up top. this will be a paxton tuner kit, i will not be using paxtons split fuel set up.

    **UPDATE END RESULT VIDEO**
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by PaulP; 06-05-2020 at 02:31 PM.

  2. #2
    Oil pans off, learned that when you do a oil change theres still 1/4'' of oil in bottom of pan, so it got a good cleaning, paxtons 90 was little small so went and found the biggest 3/8's one I could with little more volume for charger oil drain, the Paxton manual says drill the oil pan and tap it well theres only three threads so welded up a bung to oil pan now have good nice seal.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    Drilling the crank is next, not a lot of room, didn't use this 90 drill used a mac was a little smaller, when the first drill bit broke in the crank I almost flipped out lol but take the guide plate off and theres enough room to grab it, 1/16th stick out after said and done just grind it flush,
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
    Took the pulley off and aluminum oxide blasted it, to get rid of the shiny smooth surface, great tip from nineball tony! stock oil cooler lines leak, upgraded to viper specialty ones, the stock power steering ones leak as well so they got upgraded to jtsvp braided lines, also got hard upper rad pipe kit threw jtsvp, got all that done and blower mounted. Heat exchanger got four tabs welded and installed, DLM water pump mounted and lines all ran,
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    1,256
    Nice writeup. I really enjoy seeing things like this on the forum. Keep them coming. I look forward to your results.

  6. #6
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Downingtown, PA
    Posts
    1,047
    Looking forward to the next update!

  7. #7
    Very nice write up Keep it coming.

  8. #8
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,005
    Good start. I'm in the process of dismantling my setup right now, just the opposite of you.

    Tony

  9. #9
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
    Posts
    4,776
    Quote Originally Posted by Nine Ball View Post
    Good start. I'm in the process of dismantling my setup right now, just the opposite of you.

    Tony
    Is that like taking the ornaments off your Christmas tree? Kinda sad when putting them on was so fun?

  10. #10
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    818
    Awesome!!! Love great modification threads. Even better doing it yourself in the garage. Keep it coming.

  11. #11
    Thanks guys, updates will be little slower now that xmas holidays are over but i will keep updating, i can't wait to see tony's new tt build!
    here are previous mods :

    http://driveviper.com/forums/threads...30-days-so-far

    http://driveviper.com/forums/threads...al-Of-6-(Pics)

  12. #12
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,005
    BTW, here is a tip for those drilling the crank pins.

    1. Remove the two engine mount nuts from underneath the frame.
    2. Place a jack under the oil pan.
    3. Lift up the engine enough so that the crankshaft center clears the steering rack.

    That makes it a lot easier to deal with anything crank-pulley related.

  13. #13
    Next i am making room for the install of the headers, removed the windshield wipers, windshield cowl both sides, removed hvac box on passenger side, i also will be installing new plugs, wires, screamin demon coils, fuel rails, injectors. so intake is coming off, if anyone tells you that you don't need a oil catch can on a stock car, well here are a couple pics you be the judge, puddles of oil everywhere and car has bin sitting for two months since last time started, everything caked in a oil layer.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Nine Ball View Post
    BTW, here is a tip for those drilling the crank pins.

    1. Remove the two engine mount nuts from underneath the frame.
    2. Place a jack under the oil pan.
    3. Lift up the engine enough so that the crankshaft center clears the steering rack.

    That makes it a lot easier to deal with anything crank-pulley related.
    A warning about doing that... it will bust the front exhaust hangars.

  15. #15
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,005
    Quote Originally Posted by jeffboyette View Post
    A warning about doing that... it will bust the front exhaust hangars.
    Did not know that. I've did so with my Belangers attached.

  16. #16
    It sure will. Had no sign that it happened until I had the side panels off to do my custom header back. It stretches them and one of the ends snaps off.

  17. #17
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Poughkeepsie NY
    Posts
    40
    Looking very good Paul. Nice work.

  18. #18
    Thanks Gjon, i have the intake sitting on the bench and am tempted to cut it open port it, anyone done this any thoughts on this? we all know how restricted they are main reason being hood clearance hence the reason no roots style blowers on these cars. i think there could be a few hp there for sure i could release and make it easier for the air to enter the runners maybe increase the intake volume a little too, Here is a pic i found on the internet.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  19. #19
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Poughkeepsie NY
    Posts
    40
    Hey Paul. Anytime you port a manifold or heads or port match heads to a manifold you will pick up some power. Also anytime you have less air restriction there will be less heat build up witch in turn better air density and more power. So it comes down to a couple of factors. One is it cost effective to have this done for you? And what are you ultimate hp goals? Since you will reach your numbers you mentioned earlier in this build tread on a stock manifold its not necessary to have done. Also with the pretty efficient nature of the intercooled Paxton kits you wont be seeing a tremendous iat temp at the 7/8lbs of boost you are looking to make. But every bit counts and it sure doesn't hurt the end goal. We have had lots of Paxton Gen3 that we tuned and had to be very conservative on the timing table in attempt to kill some power being they had a stock bottom end. Thanks

  20. #20
    What front calipers are you running? They look huge.

  21. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Timnineside View Post
    What front calipers are you running? They look huge.
    Stock Gen 3 cars a 05 if that helps

  22. #22
    I wish I had the ability to do the Paxton by myself. I had a Paxton and internals done in the fall on my 06 Coupe in Calgary. Would be interested in, maybe I don't want to know, the difference in the dollars spent. Look forward to the possibility of crossing paths with you up here in Canada.

  23. #23
    Nice sharky did daven port do it for you ? how much did you dyno when all said and done mods etc?

  24. #24
    The intake was on my work bench and i was very close to cut it open, but it just doesn't make any sense right now to cut it open and spend $1200-1400 to port polish it for unknown gains, or extrude hone it for around $1200, i really think there are some gains to be had, i just won't know at this point. so i started by welding the centre valve cover hose port as shown in pic, second that same port in the intake was a good size hump, i cut it out can see in earlier pics, ground it down smoothed it not done yet but here is a pic, next started on the headers i really thought this was gonna be a pain in the *ss, but was easy with all the stuff i had removed, 3/8's ratchet with 1/2" long socket took all the top and lower bolts out no swivels needed, driver side comes out easy, the passenger side needed some finesse but did come out with out unbolting the motor mount or lifting the motor was happy about that.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by PaulP; 01-22-2015 at 02:42 AM.

  25. #25
    Paul, you have some of the cleanest most organized pics I have seen.

    This is the first I've seen of the car, looking good Sir!!


 
Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •