Primer Timer: eliminate long cranking and hard starting when fuel check valve fails

[Matt M, Pa]

I had the same problem and built the timer....still working fine years later. I also bought the part from Dan in case I decide to fix it...

[cotton2007]

I have a 95 viper r/t 10 and it has sat up for about 3 years...I am not getting fuel pressure with my fuel pressure gauge and I am wondering if this is the problem? Also is the fuel pump relay in the trunk behind the passenger seat? Can you hear the fuel pump trying to work when you turn the ignition key? I'm asking cause if it only lets it bump for a second you might miss it? Any help or ideas would be much appreciated!

[KURTSVIPER]

Hi Matt,

I'm glad that that still works, because I was concerned that the timer was only a temp fix, i'm glad it's not. Do you have Dan's contact information, I may want to get the fix myself.

[KURTSVIPER]

Hey Cotton, yes you can hear the fuel pump, even without the primer you can her it behind you for a sec once you turn the key. I'm no expert, but it seems if your not hearing it initially when you turn the key, that there is something else wrong, because the primer only prolongs the time it send fuel.

[josh]

Bumping an old thread...

I am wondering if I am experiencing this same issue.

My last two cold starts, I turn the key, it tries, but not start until I tap the gas pedal a few times, then it gets going, I get a little bit of a gas smell when doing so. Battery is new.

[MM_RSI650]

Hey Guys!

This is an old thread, but I recently purchased a 1996 RT/10 and noticed that it was not starting very well unless keyed on a couple of times. Came across this thread, built the part, set to 8 seconds and viola! It starts every time!!

Josh, I would try keying on and off about three times and try to start. If that works than yes that is probably the issue.

Thanks!

[RyanLS.GEN2]

the "check valve" is actually the fuel pressure regulator, like dan said, all of this is a band aid for the real problem, the regulator.. most of the dodge trucks and alike that have a similar FPR only run at 40 - 45 psi, the viper runs 55psi, so they are also not a good option.

[Real_Maverick]

Reviving this old thread as my gen 1 is experiencing this issue.

Is anyone selling the whole kit? Would love to have it all from one place instead of finding all the pieces individually (will pay extra of course).

[Tucson98G2]

Changing spark plugs and wires is about the limit of my ability as an auto mechanic, so I was a little intimidated by the primer timer project. Left with the option of the PT or a $2500 fuel pump replacement for my '98 GTS, I ordered the parts and dove in. I only had on panic moment when I couldn't find the black wire hiding in the bundle, but I got everything connected, and much to my surprise, it worked!

I'm not sure why, but my only issue was the project box listed in Tom's last post wasn't deep enough to fit the circuit board. I found one that was 1.5 inches deep, and it worked perfectly.

[Real_Maverick]

Same, the box wasn't high enough for the updated circuit board dimensions. Do you have a link to the right sized one?

In any case, on my 95 the timer light shows it's powered on and clicks off after the adjusted seconds, however, the pump isn't staying on longer than 3 seconds. I have this wired correctly right? (black wire is off to the other side and attached to another black). Any idea why this wouldn't keep my pump priming longer than 3 sec?

20210606_100158.jpg

[AZTVR]

Same, the box wasn't high enough for the updated circuit board dimensions. Do you have a link to the right sized one?

In any case, on my 95 the timer light shows it's powered on and clicks off after the adjusted seconds, however, the pump isn't staying on longer than 3 seconds. I have this wired correctly right? (black wire is off to the other side and attached to another black). Any idea why this wouldn't keep my pump priming longer than 3 sec?

First guess is a bad connection somewhere between the terminal block "NO" terminal and the blue/yellow wire, or between the "COM" terminal and the "-" terminal (did you install that jumper wire?)

[Real_Maverick]

Ya, I think I have it hooked up to the correct terminals on the PCB, let me know if this doesn't look right though:

20210606_160152.jpg
20210606_160208.jpg

[AZTVR]

Ya, I think I have it hooked up to the correct terminals on the PCB, let me know if this doesn't look right though:

Looks like you have it connected per Tom's directions. I would be making measurements with a volt/ohmmeter next. I suspect that may not be something you are familiar with. Your description of your symptoms indicate that the red and black wires are probably connected to where they need to be and that the electronics of the board is working correctly since you say that you can hear the relay click on and off at the desired times. However, we do not know if the relay is actually connecting N/O to COM when you hear the click. We also do not know whether the green wire is making a good electrical connection to the blue/yellow wire through those crimped connections. Lastly, we do not know positively, in your specific car, whether the blue/yellow wire is the correct wire. PM sent

[Vetie]

Hello everyone,

First off, thanks to the originator of this mod and the support from everyone else.
What gauge wire are people using to connect the PCB to the fuel pump wiring of the car?

Real_Maverick - Were you able to get this working with your '95? I have a 95 as well and want to know if the wire colors are correct. Thanks for any help!

Thanks

[Rich Davidson]

Useful photos. Thanks.