Battery Issue HELP!!

[Jack B]

200 is normal

Thx jack
btw is 200 F normal oil temperature?

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calm down patriot lol.

[Jack B]

I wanted to buy one also
, but, was told that they are updated via Web and unless I was a dealer the unit could not be updated. In addition, In 2013, a large group of dealers were close to a lawsuit because Chrysler changed the firmware and asked for a huge charge to update the witech. You can do a Google and find that info. Maybe a dealer can chime in, I have always wanted the witech.

Please confirm, but, I do not believe you can see all the G5 PIDS or error codes. I believe that firmware change happened in 2012, that is what soured my attempt to buy one - any service techs around?

Jack B, I am not certain what you mean about the wiTECH since I can use mine off line for a nearly infinite number of diagnostic activities. Of course, it does require a yearly subscription fee which I gladly pay as I get full tech support from wiTECH. Admittedly, I do not have the need to flash modules as I have a good dealer and Tech to perform said activities.

Actually, my older version software has been quite handy as the newer version could not program a newly instslled MOPAR PCM as of last summer when a couple of members needed this process.

[Steve-Indy]

Jack, mine is the " aftermarket" unit that I purchased directly from wiTECH sales. I am fully supported and have no dependence on any dealer. If one wants, there are flashes that can be purchased a la carte...at least as of a short while ago.

The new units have DRB III emulator that does many things on the older cars...though I don't use it as I have a DRB III.

I did speak with them two months ago about a separate unit based on Windows 7 and 64 bit. They said that I could get both a new and my old units supported for the state a fees.

I would suggest that you contact wiTECH sales directly to get the real facts.

[SADVIPER]

If now I go ahead and try IOD test fuse by fuse is this ok? Wont damage any computer programing or something? Should I disconnect the battery?

[Steve-Indy]

The IOD test is not difficult...just time consuming...with an occasional "trap" specific to some Viper models (espe cially Gen II coupes). Be sure to have the windows down before you pull any fuses.

I have done this on several models but not a Gen V. The theory is the same. You will need to disconnect one battery cable and reconnect with a digital multi-meter between said cable and the battery terminal, setting the meter on amps. Gen I through IV Vipers should not draw more than 35 milliamps AFTER all circuits have times out, doors closed, lights off. If is noted, then one starts pulling one fuse at a time til bad circuit identified.

I will try to send you an e-mail with the service manual's directions IF I can locate them on the 2014 CD. Of course, I'll need your address.

[SADVIPER]

I've seen a great video on youtube doing this test for an old Ford. I'm willing to do the test and if it is a bad fuse I'll find it but what if it is in the circuit wiring or something.. then gonna visit the Dodge dealer we have here and see what they offer.

Thanks a bunch buddy but I have the manual and CD which came with the car

[Martin]

Taking a step back, have you tried pulling fuses until you stop hearing that strange buzzing sound? My guess is that you have a bad relay someplace, or a chassis ground problem in the circuit that the relay resides. Narrowing that circuit down would be the first thing I'd do. Then, when you figure out what the circuit is, see if you can correlate that with the trouble code you're getting. I'm not familiar with P1628, but it seems to indicate a bad ground someplace (or an intermittent short to ground). Hopefully that bad ground or short is not behind the dashboard and is someplace easily accessible. Narrowing it down will allow a tech to focus on the likely problem area, and save a ton of time (and probably money) during the troubleshooting process.

[Steve-Indy]

I was referring to the Service Manual on CD.

[Steve-Indy]

Martin makes a good point above...easy, safe, simple.

Here is a little info on the IOD test from the 2006 Service Manual (have not even found said info as yet in the 2014 manual).

"IGNITION - OFF DRAW TEST
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal
condition where power is being drained from the
battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A
normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five
to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere)
with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all
non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working
order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to
enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned
radio, and other modules which may vary with the
vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately
twenty days, may discharge the battery to an
inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for
twenty days or more (stored), remove the IOD fuse
from the Power Distribution Center (PDC). This will
reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
² Electrical items left on.
² Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
² Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
² An internally shorted generator.
² Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the
problem must be found and corrected before replacing
a battery. In most cases, the battery can be
charged and returned to service after the excessive
IOD condition has been corrected.
(1) Verify that all electrical accessories are off.
Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close
all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated
entry system or an electronically tuned radio,
allow the electronic timer function of these systems
to automatically shut off (time out). This may take
up to three minutes.
(2) Determine that the underhood lamp is operating
properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness
connector or remove the lamp bulb.
(3) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Fig. 4 Testing Open-Circuit Voltage - Typical
8F - 10 BATTERY SYSTEM ZB
(4) Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its
highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter
between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal
clamp and the battery negative terminal post.
Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the
illuminated entry system is not activated. The multimeter
amperage reading may remain high for up to
three minutes, or may not give any reading at all
while set in the highest amperage scale, depending
upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The
multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the
battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery
negative terminal post. If continuity between the
battery negative terminal post and the negative cable
terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD
test, the electronic timer function will be activated
and all of the tests will have to be repeated.
(5) After about three minutes, the high-amperage
IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very
low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical
equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading
remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit
breaker in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) and
then in the Junction Block (JB), one at a time until
the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent.
Refer to the appropriate wiring information in
this service manual for complete PDC and JB fuse,
circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will
isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the
source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage
reading remains high after removing and replacing
each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire
harness from the generator. If the amperage reading
now becomes very low or nonexistent, refer to Charging
System for the proper charging system diagnosis
and testing procedures. After the high-amperage IOD
has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively
lower amperage scales and, if necessary,
repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace
process to identify and correct all sources of
excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere
scale of the multi-meter to check the lowamperage
IOD.
CAUTION: Do not open any doors, or turn on any
electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere
scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.
(6) Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage
IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamperes
(0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds
thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the
fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process
in Step 5. The multi-meter reading will drop to
within the acceptable limit when the source of the
excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this
circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect
switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault.
USING MICRO 420 BATTERY TESTER
Always use the Micro 420 Instruction Manual that
was supplied with the tester as a reference. If the
Instruction Manual is not available the following procedure
can be used:
WARNING: ALWAYS WEAR APPROPRIATE EYE
PROTECTION AND USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN
WORKING WITH BATTERIES."

[jaxtk]

Replace the battery, a weak battery can cause some systems not to shut down properly.

[jaxtk]

I looked up code p1628 on Dealer Connect, possible causes are 5.0 volt supply voltage to sensors, shorted to ground or open, also possible PCM. Need to take to Dealer.

[SADVIPER]

Thanks Steve. Now it feels comforting to go ahead with that.

[SADVIPER]

Jaxtk I replaced the battery already but it still gets derained.
Now I heared those possible causes from 2 sources! Is it something serious or minor? I'm arranging to take it to a dealer, I'll just continu my own tests before the arrangement is complete.

[SADVIPER]

Is driving with this condition ok? I hope it won't lead to potential bigger problems!