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  1. #1
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    Junkman's "All About Claying 101: The Video"

    In this video, I cover all there is to know about claying, where to buy it, what it is, how it's used and what it is used for. In paint correction, there is no more an important process than claying. Claying is the foundation of an outstanding shine and skipping this step WHEN NECESSARY is equivalent to putting lipstick on a pig. If you do not eliminate the barrier of crud, dirt and contaminates that are on top of your paint, then nothing else that you use will have the opportunity to perform to their highest potential. Clayinjg is also ideal for removing tree sap and bird droppings that have etched into the paint, provided you address the problem IMMEDIATELY.

    After claying, some marring will be left behind in the paint. This marring will need to be removed by using a machine and a light polish. After polishing to remove the marring, the paint will need to be protected with wax, as the claying process removes ALL the wax off the paint (polishing does also). This should be common sense because if claying can remove all of the contaminates on top of the paint, wax doesn't remotely stand a chance. Washing a car enough times will remove all the wax. Washing the car ONCE with the wrong kind of soap will remove all the wax.

    So sit back and enjoy one of my shorter videos on the subject of claying. For those of you who are interested in reading up on the patent infringement cases that Auto Wax has brought against various companies and won, check out this link:

    http://www.claymagic.net/news.htm

    To order your clay directly from Auto Wax and avoid the cost associated with the middle man, go here:

    http://www.claymagic.net/ClayMagic-Products.htm

    The Junkman



  2. #2
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    couple question's JM

    -How often should you clay?
    -What kind of clay should you use?
    -Did you already answer these questions in video? LMAO!!!

    No seriously-Nanoskin has a pad/towel that they claim replaces the clay bar. Any experience/word on this product?

  3. #3
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    Never trued it, probably never will.

  4. #4
    Hey JM, question for ya.
    I have a white 2013 tacoma purchased it brand new 1 year ago and have clay'd it and waxed it twice. pretty much every 6 months.
    Now my question is I am pretty sure its rail dust like you mentioned in your video or maybe industrial fall out, but when I clay bar over a section 1-2 times applying hard pressure if need be and focusing on that small issue area there are a few small rust looking spots that I seem to not be able to pick up with the clay. Its much more noticeable on a white car and even tho there are only a few of these spots on my tacoma Its kinda of annoying. How would you recommend tackling these spots? Do you have a video on this by chance?

  5. #5
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    You just watched it (I think). Did you watch the ENTIRE video? I apply enough pressure to get rid of any contamination. How hard were you claying?

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
    You just watched it (I think). Did you watch the ENTIRE video? I apply enough pressure to get rid of any contamination. How hard were you claying?
    yes i watched the entire video.

    Its just a small spec of something that I can't get off. I used plenty of lubricant and even focused on that one small spec applying all sorts of pressure, hard, medium, and light pressure. I have a few types of clay I use also. some aggressive and normal. I did learn something new about clay in your video how it all comes from 1 place.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Short View Post
    yes i watched the entire video.

    Its just a small spec of something that I can't get off. I used plenty of lubricant and even focused on that one small spec applying all sorts of pressure, hard, medium, and light pressure. I have a few types of clay I use also. some aggressive and normal. I did learn something new about clay in your video how it all comes from 1 place.
    First, you should have NOT used anything but the lightest clay that they make (consumer grade). If whatever is in your paint didn't come out with the lightest clay, then I would have to see and feel for myself what it is in order to say what should be done. If you used a more aggressive clay, it left a lot of marring behind. Did you buff that marring out?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Short View Post
    yes i watched the entire video.

    Its just a small spec of something that I can't get off. I used plenty of lubricant and even focused on that one small spec applying all sorts of pressure, hard, medium, and light pressure. I have a few types of clay I use also. some aggressive and normal. I did learn something new about clay in your video how it all comes from 1 place.
    Have you tried something like Iron X? I have a white '07 Tacoma with similar spots, and that type of product seems to help with mine...

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve M View Post
    Have you tried something like Iron X? I have a white '07 Tacoma with similar spots, and that type of product seems to help with mine...
    I have heard of it. But have not yet tired it.

    And JM on the more aggressive clay I used maybe I wasn't applying enough pressure to cause marring because I didn't notice any.

  10. #10
    I see what you mean in the video JM. I wonder if because my truck is white its harder to see the marring. Also when I clay I am not claying quite as hard as you are in that part of the video. Typically when I get to those small tuff spots I use my index finger and go over the spot back in forth. Just working that one small area. Not going quite as much as you are in the video.

  11. #11
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    Maybe that's why the spot can't be removed. Like my daddy use to tell me, "Put your butt in it son."


 

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