Running Hot - 93 RT/10

[Viper Red]

1993 RT/10 Roadster
Mileage is 5000 miles only.

Ambient temperature in Bahrain in the summer is between 90F and 115F
My car is constantly running at "yellow" mark. It doesn't over heat but runs very close to that dreaded "red" mark.

I took it to my mechanic who diagnosed the cooling issue.
He rodded the radiator, flushed the coolant and burped the air out!

He also told me that my 2ndary fan comes on at 220, and that is too hot for our ambient conditions here. And if I want it to run cooler, I should install a relay that will turn the fan on earlier at 190. An adjustable control module would be a bonus.

Now.. are both these products the same as far as operation is concerned. Id the difference in price only in the connectors? Or is there something else I should look out for?

Basically, will the $75 one from Roe Racing made for the Roe system work on my OEM system? Is the one from viperstore for $219 my only choice?

Any suggestions at this time would be highly appreciated. I need to take downtime and delivery into cosideration. Would love a quick & cost effective solution if possible.

Thanks in advance

Dodge Viper (1992-2002) Super Cooling Fan Control
https://www.theviperstore.com/Viper2...es_Cooling.htm


Dodge Viper Fan Control Kit Update For Existing Kits
Dodge Viper Fan Control Kit Update For Existing Kits

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

This is very important and applies to 1992 and 1993 ONLY:

1) A very early TSB concerned your 92-93 Temp Gauge, and the "Yellow Zone." The calibration of this early off-the-shelf gauge was NOT compatible with the operating temps of hot-weather zone or tracked Vipers. The "check engine" light could flicker / flash when water temp needle was in the YELLOW Zone. The Dodge TSB instructions were simple: IGNORE THE FLICKERING AND THE YELLOW! Only be concerned if you hit RED Zone.

Later Vipers had NO yellow zone.

2) 1992-1993 have a RADIATOR CAP on the front radiator itself. Later Vipers do not. They have a surge tank atop the RF wheel.

It is VERY IMPORTANT that every time you take off the 92-93 Cap your NOSE IS HIGH! As in jacked up, or on a steep slope. Why? The level of coolant in your BLOCK is higher than the level of the Radiator Cap! So every time you remove the low cap, it loses some coolant. Your brain wants to say . "YES, ITS FULL" but in fact you just lost an ounce of coolant.

It is very easy to get air trapped in the 92-93 motor, and almost impossible to 'burp' it out EXCEPT AT THE HEATER CORE, or at the elevated nose of a jacked-up Viper. You MUST Burp out this trapped air! Squeese the upper hose, burp the air out, and refill very slowly til that upper rad hose is FAT AND FULL.......and be very aware of the OVERFLOW TANK inside the RF corner of the front fascia, in front of the RF tire. KEEP IT HALF-FULL AT ALL TIMES. NO LEAKS.

3) I would use a 180f T-stat on a Gen 1,,,maybe a 170f in your climate.

4) If you have a manual switch override control of your 2 fans, that is OK. Simple install and cheap. NO elaborate splicing. Or make it run whenever the car is ON.

5) Im not a fan of electrical ignition-off-radiator fan devices. Adding a device that runs the fan when your car is OFF, and the water pump is OFF, is just a way to drain your battery! And cause electrical faults for the spliced add-on wires. It will only cool the non-circulating stagnant hot water in your radiator, not in your motor. Once you battery goes below 10.4 Volts,. your coils wont fire. And your alarm goes off. Placebo item.....

GOOD LUCK

[Viper Red]

Thank you Jon, your detailed instructions you sent to me earlier concerning burping the system was printed out for my mechanic to follow step by step.

He is also not in favor of battery draining modules, but he does recommend that the high speed fan come on earlier which will improve cooling.

He has also installed a 170 thermostat but has told me that this will not really improve anything as the operating temp of this car is above 190 anyways.

Once again, thank you sir.

[Viper Red]

Picked up the car today, very very hot day. Temp was 46C and humid as hell!

Anyways, spark plugs replaced, fuel and oil filters replaced. New oil, new coolant, new 170F Thermo. K&N air filters installed.
And this was the max temp my gauge read on the way home, even in traffic at the lights. I am pleased.

THANK YOU JONB OF PARTSRACK FOR GUIDING ME STEP BY STEP THROUGH THIS. THE MAN IS A BLESSING TO ALL US VIPER OWNERS! TRULY




Now I went ahead and ordered this. But will hook it up so the fan can be switched off when car is off!

http://www.roeracing.com/ProductCart...10-117p297.htm

And as a preventative measure, I went ahead and ordered plug wires from JonB. I also think injector cleaning is in order which I totally missed out on and forgot to tell my mechanic to do.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

You are MOST welcome, glad to be of help. In fact you made MY day, so thank YOU!

[Ohiotj]

Jon, the amount of viper knowledge you have is hard to comprehend. There are not too many question asked which stump you. Beyond giving an answer you also provide a detailed reply to the nth degree. You truly are an asset to this club. Btw if you are ever in ohio I got some pace car lights I need wired up...

[Viper Red]

I am extremely pleased, it ran even cooler today! Same distance driven same route as last time!

I haven't even installed the fan module yet!

[plumcrazy]

yo persian, the roe battery drain kit is not a favorite of mine either. glad to see you here on the VOA

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

Jon, the amount of viper knowledge you have is hard to comprehend. There are not too many question asked which stump you. Beyond giving an answer you also provide a detailed reply to the nth degree. You truly are an asset to this club. Btw if you are ever in ohio I got some pace car lights I need wired up...

Just so long as YOU hold the hatch up!

Thank you......but I recall that 'ASSET' is 60% ASS--

[Viper Red]

Loving the car right now, fan module and plug wires going on tomorrow.

Thank you JonB@PartsRack for the wires, and Sean@Roe for the module.

[Viper Red]

Well what can I say? This has been quite satisfying to say the least.

I am driving in mid september when ambient temperature is 110F. Just installed the fan module set to turn the high speed fan on @ 180F. And had my A/C serviced and gas recharged... it's so nice! Car is running cooler than I expected.

When I let her idle for about 2 minutes, she will shoot up to a max of 200F !!!

[USAFPILOT]

reviving an old thread. Doing my best to burp my 93. It runs in the yellow with the AC on in Houston. It's about 90 degrees outside. Surge tank is near the max line, i think I've burped out all of the air by using the nose high technique. I tried removing the heater hose, but its stuck pretty good and I don't wanna rip it.

Ive read some of the other cars, later years, self purge the air by running them. If there is a little air left in my 93 will it do that? I'd like to see it run a bit cooler.

[GTS Dean]

My '93 was brand new with A/C and it ran disturbingly hot in the Texas summer heat, but it never boiled over.

[USAFPILOT]

yeah it doesn't boil over, but the needle is smack in the yellow. I've read that might be ok on these cars, but seems concerning.

[USAFPILOT]

I need some help with the burping procedure I think.

[GTS Dean]

Make sure the overflow bottle is in the nominal range. Then go drive it with the heater on and the temp valve wide open for a while. Make some run-ups to get the water pump working hard, then go home. If it's gurgling and belching out the fascia, you have trapped air in the system. Let it cool down and check the overflow bottle again. If there was trapped air, your level should be down a bit. If not, it's probably OK. The cap should allow expansion overflow to siphon back into the motor as the system cools down and contracts.

[USAFPILOT]

If I end up with too much in the overflow, how do I get it out?

[GTS Dean]

Pull the connector overflow hose. Use an inexpensive manual transfer pump and a barbed adapter from the auto parts store to suck down the overflow bottle. There's a molded appendage down the side of the tank from the hose termination all the way to the bottom of the tank so it always maintains a flooded suction.