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  1. #1
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    Correct way to jack--Please advise.

    So, I realize I am about to ask a fairly big favor here, so thank you in advance.

    Can anyone advise, with pics, the correct way to jack a Gen 3 and put it on jack stands (all 4 for wheel removal) ? The jack points are easy to see and work great, but if your low pro jack is on them, how do you put a jack stand under? If someone could show with a couple pics, I would greatly appreciate.

    Thanks in advance!

    --Jeff

  2. #2
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    If you hit the front jack points, you can put the jack stands on the part of the frame closer to the engine...it's easily visible up front since the belly pan doesn't extend that far forward.

    Out back, you can jack the car by hitting one of the large screw heads that hold the belly pan in place and use the rear jack points for the stands.

  3. #3
    ^^^^^^Exactly how I do it^^^^^^

  4. #4
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    When you say hit the front jack points, you mean the low profile jack head goes on them, correct? Then the stands go where you said (which is pretty much just behind the axle IIRC)? And do you do all four separately? Like just get it high enough to get the jack stand on the passenger side front, then go do driver side front? Followed by placing the jack on the large screw head on the rear, one side then the other?

    So as to say, don't jack the front up enough that you can put the rear on as well, passenger side all at once? I have heard of people doing that but it seems like it would put a lot of stress on the frame. Though it is stiff as all get out.
    Last edited by Vprbite; 08-17-2014 at 08:49 PM.

  5. #5
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    And again, thanks for your help guys. If any of you have photos that would be great.

  6. #6
    I tend to put a stand under the front frame as described above (say drivers side) and the rear jack point whilst lifting from the front jack point, getting the rear stand under one side means i can later get the jack under the rear to lift the back on the belly pan bolt and get the final stand under the passenger rear jack point.

    So lifting order goes

    Lift Front drivers jack point.
    Stand under front drivers K frame section, Stand under rear drivers jack point.
    Lift Front pass jack point
    Stand under pass K frame, be careful lowing as it will likely lift the drivers side off the stand with the car on the rear driver jack point, front pass K frame and rear pass tire.
    Lift from the rear passenger side belly pan bolt, this tilts the car back onto the front drivers stand then lifts the rear to place the last stand under the pass rear jack point.
    Possibly lift from front frame to re-position/settle front stands if they aren't as central and solid as desired at the end of the process as the car can shift slightly putting lateral load on them.

    reverse procedure to get it back down.

    ps this is for a gen 4 but i think the gen 3 should be pretty similar

  7. #7
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    Here's how I typically do it:

    Floor jack lifts the back of the car by the point described above (jack directly under one of the large screw heads holding the aluminum belly pan in place)
    Lift the entire rear of the car up in the air until it is high enough to get a jack stand under each of the rear triangular jacking points
    Remove the floor jack - as you let it down, the rear of the car will droop, causing the front end to raise a bit
    Go to one side of the car towards the front - place the floor jack under one of the front jack points (the protruding triangle piece - head of the jack goes directly under it)
    Since the rear is now supported by the jack stands, the front will lift pretty easily (and evenly since the frame is stiff)
    Once lifted high enough, put remaining two jack stands under the frame towards the center of the car...the frame is very easy to see since it is mostly exposed

    I prefer to do it this way rather than try lifting one side of the car and then the other...I've never been a big fan of doing it that way.

  8. #8
    Steve, does the nose not hit the ground when you lift the rear? I may try your way next time as i agree its all a bit unnerving lifting a viper onto stands, The first time i tried it with the gen 4, trying to get a stand under the front jack point whilst lifting from the rear point, i had the opposite front corner about 2foot in the air at which point i crapped myself, let it all back down whilst i had a stiff drink and a rethink. Seems like it should be an easy task to put a car up on stands, not so much when the chassis is as stiff as a vipers and there is nowhere nice to put a jack and a stand on some of the corners.

  9. #9
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    The nose on mine does not hit the ground when lifting it this way...my car is lowered, but not slammed, so I can't speak for all Vipers. A stock ride height Viper should not have any issues. These are the jack stands I use:

    http://www.esco.net/tire-changing-eq...&cat=26&page=1

    And this is the floor jack (with rubber pad):

    http://www.ac-hydraulic.dk/us/produc...jacks/dk13hlq/

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate the step by step. Pretty sure this is about how I did it last time. Any chance someone would be willing to take a few pics of the process? I would gladly send you a Starbucks gift card (or something to that effect) as a thank you.

    Also, I have 2 sets of jack stands. Same brand (made in USA) but not the most expensive ones I could find. Each rated at more than the entire Viper weighs. But perhaps they were a slightly different model or something like that, because two of them are slightly shorter than the others. They are off by about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Putting the front or rear that slight bit higher or lower...bad idea or no big deal? If needed , I will make sure to get 4 that match exactly but perhaps these were made at different times or were just a slightly different model. It was 2 sets of 2. I just was wondering if it is dangerous, even when that small of a difference. Thanks again guys. No shortage of good people on this club.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vprbite View Post
    Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate the step by step. Pretty sure this is about how I did it last time. Any chance someone would be willing to take a few pics of the process? I would gladly send you a Starbucks gift card (or something to that effect) as a thank you.

    Also, I have 2 sets of jack stands. Same brand (made in USA) but not the most expensive ones I could find. Each rated at more than the entire Viper weighs. But perhaps they were a slightly different model or something like that, because two of them are slightly shorter than the others. They are off by about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Putting the front or rear that slight bit higher or lower...bad idea or no big deal? If needed , I will make sure to get 4 that match exactly but perhaps these were made at different times or were just a slightly different model. It was 2 sets of 2. I just was wondering if it is dangerous, even when that small of a difference. Thanks again guys. No shortage of good people on this club.
    As long as your jacks meet the weight requirements, you're okay. Placing a short section of 2X12 under the shorter jack stands should help out if height is an issue.

  12. #12
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    St. Char, I think each one is 3 ton so no problem there. We did my brothers 350Z with them and did my viper once, didnt seem like it wanted to go anywhere. Just wasn't sure if it was a big No-No. Really I think it's bout half an inch so not a whole lot of potential energy there. But good call on a thin piece of wood. Will measure closely and grab something. Floor tile would work too, no?


 

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