Infrared Pictures of Intake Tubes and Air Box

[Jack B]

In front of radiator - grill area. How about attached to tow eyelet

Not sure if the plug are all universal are they Tony? Plus where would you put them and still have them behind the filter for protection that is not just as hot? I'm not sure about having them exposed all the time outside of it.

[Nine Ball]

Why not connect a switch to run the fan/fans whenever you want.? Not a sure fix, but something you can use in the staging lanes. Might get some of that hot air out of there while idling. I know a lot of SRT Jeep guys used to do that.

BTW, the Gen V and Gen IV airbox look almost exactly alike to me. Next time I'm at Tomball Dodge I'll have to look.

4 and 5 boxes do look identical. Bet they are the same.

The problem with the fans running is that those are the main cause of heating up the box. They blow directly onto the bottom of the airbox. You can watch the IAT's climb when the fans are on, vs off.

[Steve M]

Not sure if the plug are all universal are they Tony? Plus where would you put them and still have them behind the filter for protection that is not just as hot? I'm not sure about having them exposed all the time outside of it.

The IAT sensors I've used in the past didn't seem to need much in the way of protection...IMO, they need to be moved as far forward as possible. If someone can come up with the adapter and an IAT sensor that will work with the OEM PCM, I'll run it to wherever I need it, even if I have to extend the wires a bit myself.

I had this exact same issue on my previous vehicle (2002 Camaro)...I just ran the IAT sensor to an area right behind the nose and stuck it in a small box (Radio Shack small project box) to shield it from the elements. Worked fine for years.

[Steve M]

Here's what I used on my Camaro (also includes calibration data):

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...tor-p-116.html

They also offer a closed element version:

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...tor-p-115.html

So the question is: what IAT sensor will the Venom controllers (Gen 4 and 5) accept? I'm guessing it might not like GM sensors, but what else in Mopar's lineup uses a stand-alone IAT sensor that is close enough calibration-wise to the integrated MAF + IAT?

[ACRucrazy]

That closed element sensor looks just like the water temp sensor in my Neon.

[Voice of Reason]

That closed element sensor looks just like the water temp sensor in my Neon.

That sensor looks like it would heat soak terribly! Finding a sensor with a fast response rate is just as important as moving it to a better location.

[Shooter]

4 and 5 boxes do look identical. Bet they are the same.

The problem with the fans running is that those are the main cause of heating up the box. They blow directly onto the bottom of the airbox. You can watch the IAT's climb when the fans are on, vs off.

Ok, I thought The IAT's climbed the most just after the car was shut off, with the hood closed. Guess not.

[Steve M]

That sensor looks like it would heat soak terribly! Finding a sensor with a fast response rate is just as important as moving it to a better location.

Possibly...just throwing it out there as an example. Most of the ones I've seen are open element sensors, so they should have a good response rate. Regardless, both of those are GM sensors...so who has access to the IAT calibration data for the OEM Viper sensors?

[mjorgensen]

Ok, I thought The IAT's climbed the most just after the car was shut off, with the hood closed. Guess not.

This is a true statement also, if you shut off the car and open the hood to cool it down the heat rises straight up under the box, up the drain hole and around to the opening. When you re start the car IAT will be over 120 degrees. Shutting the hood and starting the car will drop then quickly to about 95-100. With the hood closed when shut down the cool air still gets in through the front of the airbox to help offset the heat soak for a while.

[mjorgensen]

Possibly...just throwing it out there as an example. Most of the ones I've seen are open element sensors, so they should have a good response rate. Regardless, both of those are GM sensors...so who has access to the IAT calibration data for the OEM Viper sensors?

The Viper sensors are open element (fragile) that is why I don't think moving them to a spot in front of the box will last long from contamination stand point.

[Steve M]

The Viper sensors are open element (fragile) that is why I don't think moving them to a spot in front of the box will last long from contamination stand point.

I think this can easily be addressed with a small, ventilated box.

[ACRucrazy]

[FLATOUT]

Would love to be able to run the same setup as the GT3RS car. Great photos to see how they address it.

[Voice of Reason]

Would love to be able to run the same setup as the GT3RS car. Great photos to see how they address it.

Agreed! It's too bad we have more things between the radiator and the engine compared to the GT3-R. You'd have to get creative moving things in order to make radiator to heat extractor ducting to work. Maybe with some luck the ACR will get it and a more GT3-R like hood so it could work?