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  1. #1
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    slave cylinder going out?

    I think my slave cylinder might be going out? what are the typical symptoms of this? I can drive the car, it seems to shift ok. but during higher rpm more rapid shifts it really doesn't want to go, I also notice that the clutch disengages very close to the floor, within 1 inch. I also think as a result it isn't completely disengaging causing the car to be almost impossible to shift quickly. this is on a 98 GTS, running a spec 5 clutch.

    Thanks all.

  2. #2
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    Slaves do not gradually go out, they simply fail all at once. There is just a simple o-ring inside them that eventually goes bad. Indications would be a puddle of brake fluid under the transmission, or dripping out of the bellhousing.

    You may need to flush/replace the brake fluid inside the hydraulic system, though. It does go bad, especially due to heat produced by the headers.

  3. #3
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    flush it and use dot 3? or dot 4? or preferences? knowing its a header mount turbo system so heat is VERY prevalent.

  4. #4
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    What is the fluid reservoir level like, do you have to keep topping up the fluid?

    A few years ago my friend had a Gen1, every now and again we had fill up the reservoir and pump the pedal to get the clutch working. It was an intermittent problem at first, but over a couple of months it completely died.
    It turned out to be to be the Slave, but because of the clutch dust inside the bell housing, there was never any fluid under the car

    Have you ever bled the system and when was the last time you changed the fluid?

    One other thing, Do you have aftermarket Headers fitted to the car? Reason I ask this is that some owners have had trouble shifting due to the fluid overheating as the braided line going from the Master cylinder to the slave cylinder passes very close to the rear Headers
    Last edited by Fatboy 18; 11-07-2013 at 02:06 PM.

  5. #5
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    I believe they are cream puff tubular because of the twins.

    RSI put a Spec 5 clutch in it for me when the did the twins, I would imagine it was bled at that time but I've never really had the transmission out of one of these so I don't know if bleeding is necessary after a clutch replacement or not. fluid doesn't seem to be leaking. we will pull the transmission anyway just to see what's going on but my shop floor is clean, no leaks from anything.

  6. #6
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    The heat is boiling your old clutch fluid. Upgrade to a Dot-4 or 5.1 (NOT a 5.0!)

    Try to Insulate-heat shield the master cyl and the bell housing where the Slave sits.

    Often a leaking slave will not drip to floor.....the seepage stays in the bell and runs out when you drive it

  7. #7
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    I will be checking out the line placement for sure. I'll definitely throw some 5.1 in it and bleed it down good. do I need to fab a hard insulator or a soft foil insulator for the line? basically how would you guys do that? the turbos are sitting in front of and at the bottom of the foot wells basically.

    so I'm thinking my transmission is actually ok. the first run down the track the car was basically cold, just off the trailer, ran through the gears fine besides horrible spinning. second time down the track it made the first shift fine, 2nd to third was a bit hard, and 3rd to 4th was almost completely denied. let it cool for a few minutes, took it back for one final run, a quick spin, then take off tried to hit second, very hard, 3rd and 4th were almost completely denied again. no grinding or any noises, it just didn't want to shift. I haven't had to put any fluid in it. there is a tiny bit of debris it looks like in the bottom of the MC. black debris. would those symptoms make sense for the fluid boiling more than the slave being out? or possibly air in the line?

  8. #8
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    I would bleed it through with nice clean fresh fluid first then look at shielding the braded line. Go for cheapest options first no point in pulling the trans out if you don't have to!

    It does sound like you are having heat sink problems. Remember, even when the car is stationary after your track runs the heat under the hood will be enormous.

  9. #9
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    My centerforce clutch had issues getting into gear at higher RPM's. No issues with my new Bad Boyz clutch. I haven't really ran through the gears but will this weekend. Is your clutch new? I ended up having a loose pad on the centerforce.

  10. #10
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    spec 5 is a solid iron disc, no springs, no pads. it's a little aggressive. but yes basically new.


 

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