Looks as good as when I last saw it! Excellent mods my friend.
Looks as good as when I last saw it! Excellent mods my friend.
Can't thank you enough for the advise and pointers. Have helped out immensely. Getting a longer driver side hose made for the catch can and am going to wrap it in the OEM hose wrap webbing. Went ahead and made it 45" long, the one on the car is 40", should clear the valve covers and front of engine easily now without stretch.
Well went out for a 100 mile cruise today after torquing the intake to the correct spec. While there was a slight increase bettering acceleration the throttle position is still no bueno.
Could not spin cold PSS on a cold road from a dead stop. Had to literally stand on the GO pedal to catch up to the suburban before me after a stop sign. Very little response in the pedal until it is on the floor then acts like it is bogged down when it accelerates. And in 100 miles I am a little under 1/2 tank used so it is still rich as hell.
Only engine mod done before this happened was the intake.
Had the diff cooler and trans cooler installed too but that shouldn't make any issues.
What at am I missing?
Last edited by TexasTonka; 02-08-2014 at 06:51 PM. Reason: Spelling
Have you reset the throttle body positioning?
1. Turn key full to on, do NOT start the car.
2. Press the throttle to the floor, hold it there.
3. Turn key off.
Should be reset. I know I did this to mine, but am unsure if this is the exact process. There is a post around here with it in it, but I could not find it.
Also, did you zip tie the two vacuum lines (I zip tied every one on the unit that I had undone during install) that come out of the bottom/front of the intake. The nipples on the new intake are a bit smaller than the Gev IV ones. I think FlatOut had this issue as he warned me about it.
Andy and I checked mine, got zip ties in place. I did the throttle body position learn like you described but not sure if it worked. No beep or tone to indicate if I did it right.
If I got frustrated enough, I'd remove it and check for any possible sources of air leaks, including cracks.
Hmmmmmm I had the similar issues at first but everything cleared up after securing the vacuum lines and tightening everything.
Grab some carb cleaner and spray around the intake ports and TB and vac lines if you think there is a leak? Listen for an increase in RPM.
Easy way to check.
Or maybe a bottle of soapy water and look for bubbles.
Not sure exactly WHAT I did. Went out to the garage today after my drive yesterday... Figured another heat cycle so may as well check the torque once again and yes I got about 1/8 of a turn out of them before a click of the wrench. I tugged on teh the two lines up front to make sure the zip ties were secure. Followed FrgMstr throttle position relearn from post #279 and took it for a quick spin (about 10 miles).
It was like trading in a PT Cruiser for a SRT Charger! The acceleration is back almost 100%. Still not as aggressive as it was when I bought it with 500 miles on it but certainly livable now. Not sure I would be able to hold off any corvettes just yet but a huge step in the right direction.
One thing I was throwing around in my mind was if the throttle relearn is what did it, would the previous owner have done this but not pushed the pedal to the floor basically tricking the Throttle by Wire to think the pedal pushed 3/4 the way down is full throttle simulating a more aggressive throttle response?
The car pushes me back in the seat again so that is a positive, I will take it out soon for a long cruise to check if it is still throwing away fuel. The responsiveness is almost back to where it was.
We are getting there! Just irks me I paid what I did to have it installed and you guys are the ones diagnosing it and helping me fix it! Should of installed the thing myself in the first place!
I have seen a couple people talk about the "pedal trick" to get better throttle response by putting a block under the pedal when doing the relearn. Never tried it though.
Tonka I hate to say it but that's why I do all of my own work. Shops just don't have the time to tweak everything to make it perfect no matter how good they are (most of the time).
The 3/4 throttle trick is a temp fix. It works, but the more you drive the car, the computer will reset the throttle to oem position. You have to keep setting it to the 3/4 position. So if yours was done at one time by previous owner, it would have reset to oem by the time you got the intake installed.
So page 10 FLATOUT, you mentioned about adding washers? Is that necessary? If its worth the try I'm trying to think what type I should use
I don't think it hurts if you chose to cut the torque limiters short like I did. The out diameter of the stock hardware is just small enough that it wants to dig into the plastic of the manifold. If you throw a small washer around the base of it, it increases the diameter and clamping force. I did it on mine and felt like the torque sequence was a little more consistant. You can kind of see them in this picture here from my header install.
Ported Gen 4 is in my future
I just remember seeing local cars with a ported gen IV making linear gains but similar gains up top to the Gen V, whereas the Gen V manifolds are making big gains through the middle with similar gains to the Gen IV up top. I do not have back to back runs of both on the same car and same dyno. Definitely interested in your graph overlays.
Thanks I will post up I'm also working on some block offs and heat shielding ideas that I hope will pay off too, and make it a nice visually appealing piece!
I really think that composite intakes are the only way to go at this point in the evolution of N/A performance. Sure, there are some bugs to work out but from a heat soak and weight standpoint it is a no-brainer. The fact that the Gen V intakes are making +25-30rwhp/rwtq in the midrange is huge. That said, it definitely doesn't look as nice as a polished or chromed Gen IV intake topping off the motor when you pop the hood.
Thought this might be worth an update, since I have put about 500 miles on the car since I put the Gen V intake on. Just got back from a nice 90 drive through some twisty North Texas roads.
I torqued to spec after the initial install, and then after one good heat cycle and cool down, I torqued to spec a second time. I have not touched these again. Everything is running perfect and I am having no issues at all. Anyway, I some of you are wondering about how these are working out over time and wanted to bring my Viper brothers up to date.
I did cut the torque limiters flush with the mating surface as shown below.
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