http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0089N63JW
That torque wrench is out of stock lol. They said they had 12 in inventory and went to ship it and had none. Ill try to keep looking unless you guys have other options. I have till spring
Last edited by DreadLox; 01-23-2014 at 02:29 PM. Reason: Added link to website
Got bumped off the dyno list today. Have too many tunings going on right now. Guys were at least uber-cool to call and let me know. Probably won't get over till next week to dyno again.
That shop, kill it with fire.
Ok maybe that's a bit much
Thanks to the guys over at True Street Motorsports for getting me in today to complete the before and after GenV dyno runs. They are sponsoring RunWay Rivalry a roll race here in Dallas in May for cars UNDER 1000rwhp. You can check it out on their page above.
To be clear, the ONLY modification to the car between dyno runs was the installation of the GenV intake manifold. (Install notes and quick write up earlier in this thread.) Here are the specs of my car as per the drive line mods: 2008 - Belanger Headers - Cat Delete - 2.5 Corsa Catback - Mopar PCM.
I have about 150 miles on the car since install and it is running excellent and idles better as well.
STD Numbers - 16rwhp increase at peak.
SAE Numbers - 18rwhp increase at peak.
Thanks to ACRucrazy and Flatout for the help along the way!
Excellent results! Thanks for sharing. I'll be doing mine this spring and we will hopefully really start to gather multiple examples of dyno data on these upgrades for the Gen IV.
Great results! Great midrange gains!
Thanks for the update FrgMstr! Good results.
Love the understated black engine look, TooBlue!
Good numbers!
Alright guys, got some concerns that may be an easy fix... May not.
I did the GenV SWAP ON MY ACR, gained 13rwhp but am still running full cats etc...
however although the dyno says I gained power my throttle response seems way below what it was before the swap, I am constantly putting the pedal on the floor through gears to accelerate.
Really seams like now putting the pedal to the floor is only giving me 1/2 throttle. This goes against what the dyno says I know.
Another issue is mileage. Granted with a modded 8.4L I am not looking at sipping fuel like a Prius but it is worth mentioning. On my way to Houston pre swap I got 20+ mpg cruising from San Antonio to Tomball at 90ish. On the way back from Tomball last night post swap I only managed 15 mpg cruising 90ish on the same trip.
I know my foot is much farther in the pedal to keep the 90ish speed after the swap.
What at I am thinking is the car needs to relearn WOT? Just an assumption.
Any ideas?
Might need to relearn throttle position:
1. Insert key in ignition , turn key to the far right but don't start the car.
2. Depress accelerator quickly to the floor. (hold it there)
3. Turn the ignition switch to off, then release the gas pedal. (done)
Start and drive as normal.
I'm glad a lot of you guys know this stuff lol. Makes it easier for some of us. I've always loved vipers but I am a fairly new owner.... I have much to learn
Kurt can you check that your fasteners are still properly torqued. Mine felt like what you are experiencing and I realized I had a few small leaks that was causing the lousy throttle response. I think as the plastic heats and cools a few times it is compressing a little which is causing some small leaks. I had Morgan relearn my throttle position sensor settings and it didn't help. I went back through everything and retorqued, as well as ziptie all of my vacuum lines and actually pulled on them to make sure they were tight.
All is good now and the throttle response is great. Hope that helps.
With all this discussion regarding torquing and loosening, I believe there is a little more to those torque limiters. Is this a one time use product - ie should they be replaced when removing the intake? Do they in fact crush some?
106 inch pounds per Flatout.
I retorqued mine after one heat cycle and have not done it again. I am going to hold off and see if I have any leaks develop before I keep tightening those down, since I know those torque limiters are not cut to spec......whatever spec may be. I would rather see a little lead develop then split one of those mating surfaces. There is however a LOT of material there.
Well I have bought a Husky and also rented one from AutoZone... both torque wrenches were bad. Going to bit the bullet and order one. The bolts spun very freely on the one I started.
Quick question, is there a torque sequence for the intake manifold?
Bought a craftsman. With Craftsman rewards it was only $49!! Cheaper than the Husky. It worked great and I had to tighten all 20 bolts a minimum of 3/4 turn, most were over a full turn. Will crank her up this weekend to see if that did anything for throttle response.
Have not added the washers yet. I did buy some Nord-Lock vibration resistant stainless steel locking washers just in case I need them. Now that I have a torque wrench that is dead on accurate I will run through 2 more heat cycles, if I have to keep torquing then I'll add the lock washer and a dab of thread locker.
Taking it out this weekend through the Hill Country so we will see if acceleration is back or not.
Finally took a few pictures of my GenV intake installed. Now to extend my drivers side catch can hose....
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