WTB, which Clutch combo?

[C.J]

... I have all new parts ready to go in mine: new Spec 3 Clutch, new Fidanza Lightweight Flywheel, new Slave Cylinder, Snake Oyl drain kit, new clutch bearing, ...

Is that the hose that allows you to bleed the clutch hydraulics without having brake fluid go everywhere? What's your plan for routing and securing this drain line? Thanks.

[Coloviper]

My understanding is it literally hangs straight down from the slave inside the housing and out one of the holes at the bottom that is there right now from the factory. Just seemed like a good move as once I get all upgrades completed, then it will be down to simple fluid maintenance and maybe adjust the clutch cable if it ever has an issue. Either way, I will not have to go back in there again and everything else will just be on the outside for maintenance or adjustment. Should be good for my granny shifting Dr. Jeckle ways but good for my Mr. Hyde moments too.

[C.J]

Interesting...please take some photos when you're working on this. That kit sounds like something very useful, thanks.

[Coloviper]

Will do!

[Luisv]

I had to do my slave about a year ago. When there I replaced the clutch, pressure plate and bearing.

LUK is the EXACT OEM clutch. The LuK clutch was the clutch in the car, down to every mark and number. The clutches where identical in every way.

The bitch of this is bleeding the system. It's a pain. It's a mess. If I do it again... I will figure out the bleeder line and a way to attach an extension if possible.

[Fatboy 18]

I had to do my slave about a year ago. When there I replaced the clutch, pressure plate and bearing.

LUK is the EXACT OEM clutch. The LuK clutch was the clutch in the car, down to every mark and number. The clutches where identical in every way.

The bitch of this is bleeding the system. It's a pain. It's a mess. If I do it again... I will figure out the bleeder line and a way to attach an extension if possible.

Good to know, Thanks

[Fatboy 18]

Just got back from a sprint meet over the weekend but I think now I have fried the existing clutch

I was burning old rubber puting on a show for the crowds over the 3 day bank holiday weekend, when it came to my last run I went to light up the rears again and all I smelt was burnt clutch I did do my 2 runs but short shifted to keep things smooth, the burnt clutch smell did not go away for an hour or so. I did drive the car the 100 miles back home and it seemed to perform ok? But Im now waiting for my new parts to arrive. The pedal did not seem to go to the floor when I tried to do the wheel spin, just slipped and burnt.
(the event video)

One thing I have not yet ordered is a replacement flywheel? Now looking for advice on this, now according to the workshop service manual it says the flywheel should not be skimmed? just use a crocus cloth or fine grit paper? I have not yet striped things down so i know this is a dificult one to advise on, but how many of you have had to change the flywheel when replacing the clutch? I have been offered a chromeoloy? (sorry about the spelling) flywheel but the face is not perfect and might need a couple of thou machined off? Should I just bite the bullet and buy a new one?

[Fatboy 18]

Oh well, Findanza flywheel now also ordered

[99RT10]

http://driveviper.com/classifieds/ac...brand-new.html

[Fatboy 18]

http://driveviper.com/classifieds/ac...brand-new.html

Oh darn, I did not look under accessorys.

[95Viper]

.....you can have flywheel resurfaced as long as who ever does it can tell you exactly how much material they remove. You will then need to make a shim to put between the t/o bearing and the trans so that you keep the correct spacing. piece a cake....

[Fatboy 18]

Well I got everything today
Big thanks to Chuck Tator, for the extra Ordered parts and VOA Discount

Massive thanks to Neilsfishing for Bringing the parts home for me Really good of you

Sadly Im off to Le mans tomorrow evening so there is no way I will be able to fit all this in time so I will just have to TRY to drive the car very, very smoothly!

[AFL in CA]

You should check out BadBoyzz Garage's Gen 1 and Gen 2 heritage clutch kit....I got the very 1st one and its AWESOME!

Regards,
Aaron

[Red Snake]

I bought my car 7 or 8 years ago. It has a stock LUK clutch in it. I turned up the boost (Roe) to 660 rwhp soon after I bought it.

I figured I would probably need a clutch before too aweful long. So I picked up a new LUK kit and a 6 puck disk, since they are supposed to hold more hp.

Well, 7 years or so later, the same old LUK that was in it when I bought the car is still in there, and still holds like the day I bought the car. I still have the complete LUK replacement and the 6 puck disk just sitting on a shelf waiting and lonely.


Go LUK. It really is a good clutch, and it don't cost that much.

[Fatboy 18]

WooHoo, back from Le mans and the clutch held out Sadly I had one or two other little gremlins pop up but more on that in another thread

[C.J]

Glad that both you and your clutch survived! Looking forward to hearing about your LeMans adventure!

[Fatboy 18]

Got the new Clutch fitted this weekend, what a PIA manhandling the gearbox back in, its bloody heavy!, also had trouble with the plastic slave cylinder bearing springing apart, but its all in and drove the car yesterday. I have not changed out the Master cylinder yet but that can wait.

Another PIA was removing the pilot bearing, I was using copperslip grease to pack the bearing and hammer it out but copperslip is too thin and can squeeze out around the drift, I switched grease to a much heaver one and the pilot bearing popped straight out, 2 hrs waisted due to wrong grease!

Have to say Don't want to do that job in a hurry again! My car is super low and we had to jack the car up to get it onto the 2 post lift, then because of the floor plate spanning the two posts you could not roll a trolley jack back and forth with the gearbox We had no option other than to manhandle it up into position. I would not recommend this job on a 2 post lift unless your floor is dead level and you can use a trolley jack to take the weight of the gearbox.