Are all battery tenders worthless or am I doing something wrong?

[RedTanRT/10]

You have bought the wrong Deltran tender, you need a 12v

From Deltran's FAQ's;

Do not use a 12-volt charger on a 6-volt battery or a 6-volt charger on a 12-volt battery. If the nominal charger voltage is larger than the nominal battery voltage, then the situation can become dangerous.

[coupe]

You might have a current draw (like these cars are notorious for) which exceeds what the 'maintenance charge current' of the battery tender... If so, it will never keep up.

As others have mentioned, do a current/amperage draw test first, so as not to keep throwing money away at new batteries.

[Steve-Indy]

Very good advice thus far...including bad battery, need for correct charger, complete IOD (Ignition Off Draw) test. Would also carefully check battery cable connectors and front charging post.

Keep in mind that slapping a new battery into a car may be a mistake if you have not first checked the new battery. I NEVER install one without first checking it, correctly & fully charging it with the appropriate charger & settings(there are 3 phases to charging). Finally, I let it sit 24 hours, recharge it, then install the battery in Viper, then reconnect charger for a day, followed by a 12 volt Battery Tender Plus which stays connected until drive time( though ALWAYS PHYSICALLY disconnected if storms in the area)

With our recent very warm summers, I have had a couple of good batteries fail within 2.5 years. The BCI (Battery Council International) Failure Mode Study suggests that as little as 12 F average rise in ambient temp can/may reduce battery life by as much as a year. My own 2 Viper battery failures were in Vipers housed in a much hotter space than all of the others. While I have not seen the actual data (nor statistical methodology) from this study (yet !!), it gives one food for thought.

Heat KILLS batteries !!!

[Bugman Jeff]

I thought the 6V bit was a typo, but now things are starting to make sense. You can not charge a 12V battery with a 6V charger. It won't work, no matter how long it's plugged in. A 6V battery is fully charged at 6.15V-6.35V. Your 6V charger is reading 12V at the battery and thinks it's over charged so it shuts off. Many chargers have 6/12 capability, but if yours was sold as a 6V you need to get a proper 12V charger.

Also, you still probably have a bad battery or a draw in the system as it shouldn't self discharge as quickly as yours is.

[dodgestang]

Live and learn.....still have the 12v tender as well

[dodgestang]

Live and learn.....still have the 12v tender as well

Description says "RV, Hot rod, CAR' but not that I think about it......it does make sense.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141271428335...84.m1439.l2649

I was under the impression the 6v/12v switches was how much juice it would pull and not specifically related to the item it was charging since you can buy 6v 12v 24v etc chargers

[Fatboy 18]

What is an 'immobliser"?

Part of the alarm system, when the alarm is set it immoblises the engine from starting.

[Matt M, Pa]

Live and learn.....still have the 12v tender as well

Description says "RV, Hot rod, CAR' but not that I think about it......it does make sense.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141271428335...84.m1439.l2649

I was under the impression the 6v/12v switches was how much juice it would pull and not specifically related to the item it was charging since you can buy 6v 12v 24v etc chargers

Some older cars, tractors etc were 6 volt.

[jdeft1]

Got a new battery yet?
........

[dodgestang]

Got a new battery yet?
........

No. Too many projects.....maybe next month

[Thom]

I use either a Ctek 7002 or Pulse Tech 100x010 on my 2006, which is always parked with the alarm set.

Despite the alarm being on, the battery cranks the engine extremely well, even if I haven't driven it for awhile.

The Ctek 7002 is the most useful overall, as it can also charge almost dead batteries (supply mode), and recondition weakened batteries (Recond mode). Plus it has a cold weather mode. I used Recondition mode on my truck battery, which had discharged due to non-use more than once, and was weak. It really perked the truck battery back up, and it has been working fine ever since.

Both the Ctek 7002 and Pulse Tech 100x010 also perform anti-sulphation charging. The Pulse Tech appears to do it from the beginning, while the Ctek switches to anti-sulphation charging after several hours or more have passed.

The Pulse Tech uses a standard American 2-pin connector which can be bought in most auto parts stores, if you need a longer harness.

The Ctek uses a unique 2-pin connector which you would have to order if you wanted a longer harness.

[sparkrn]

If you want to experience a explosion in the battery compartment, keep that 6v charger hooked to the battery. Please post pics afterword so everyone knows what not to do.

[Bugman Jeff]

If you want to experience a explosion in the battery compartment, keep that 6v charger hooked to the battery. Please post pics afterword so everyone knows what not to do.

All the 6V charger will do is not charge the battery. The battery won't see enough juice to cause any damage and the charger will see the extra volts and shut it's self off thinking the battery is already charged.

Even if you did the reverse, charge a 6V battery with 12V, the worst that will happen is that you'll boil the battery fluid and acid will leak out the vent. Even a sealed battery will just pop the safety vent. It will make a corrosive mess, but it won't explode.

[slitherv10]

Tender was getting plugged in after every run....but then it turned out to be useless anyway. (this was a 12v interstate brand tender)
I purchase a new tender that is a 6v 1.25amp unit from Deltran

The yellow LED door locks sometimes stay on without shutting off, if I lock the car they shut off, so I lock the car every time I park it (which is a pain when it is in the garage for reasons I won't go into).

What is an 'immobliser"?

First tender is wired in to hot post under the hood and ground down at the base.
Second tender was used with clips with the hot on the hot post under the hood and the neg on an exhaust stud

Did you ever figure out why the door lock lights stay on after you shut the car off? Is that normal?

[dodgestang]

Have done nothing on this front. I've been driving the car at least once ever 2-3 days so battery going dead got back burnered for other projects.

[XSnake]

I have a brand new in the box CTEK 12 volt if you are interested

[dodgestang]

I'm going to buy a new battery when I get to it. Still trying to get my mustang back on the road while also doing a bunch of crap business travel, remodeling a bath room, and chasing around after 2 young kids with various sports/dance activities.

I've also found out my AC isn't charged so I need to do a pressure test and fill it one of these days.....cause it gets a little hot when its 90.

[crackleking]

you need a new battery. I had to replace my 98 battery. it was leaking

[Fatboy 18]

Question on Batteries, according to my 2000 Workshop manual the pic shows my battery having top terminal posts, but upon removing the battery cover I find I have side terminal posts and the wiring leading to the battery looks stock. Can anyone confirm this.

If so what battery is recommended? Now bear in mind Im in the UK, I can't nip down to sears and pick one up. Do you know the correct amount of cranking amps the battery should deliver?

[Jack's GTS]

You can also purchase the adapter that will plug into the cigarette light.

The deltran tender comes with a pigtail long enough enough to run out of the battery compartment. You may have to cut open the eyelet stake-on to slip in between the nut and washer at the terminal. The pig tail then is easily plugged in

[AZTVR]

If so what battery is recommended? Now bear in mind Im in the UK, I can't nip down to sears and pick one up.

Here in the US, there are only 2 or 3 cororations that make batteries to specifications agreed to with the retailer, and branded accordingly. Folks in the US have focused on the Sears Diehard Platinum AGM battery because it is made by Odyssey who has a good reputation for AGM batteries, unlike the Optima AGM (a Johnson Controls company). Odyssey is available in the UK but its pricey, for sure. I think that it is overkill, though.
http://www.odysseybattery.com/extreme_batteries.aspx

Other than that, people recommend all different brands of wet cell batteries, and tell how others are crap that they would never buy. However, the ones they and I recommend tend to be made by Johnson Controls who also makes the ones that someone always mentions are crap. Good luck.

[Bugman Jeff]

I love AGMs in general, but I'll never in my life use another Optima battery. Working in the restoration/customization industry for many years, I never had an Optima that didn't go bad, even ones that were always on tenders. Just terrible. We even had one start leaking acid after a few months of use(and it wasn't overcharging). IIRC, Johnson Controls covered the trunk carpet replacement, but it still should never have happened with an AGM battery.

As far as wet batteries go, they're all about the same. I've used a number of brands over the years and none were noticeably better or worse than any others.