1996 GTS Radio change...wiring??

[slitherv10]

Anyone know what each color of the radio plug the alpine unit comes with is for. I am trying to install a new radio and the new one comes with different color combos for speakers, power etc.

[VoodooRob]

This is exactly why I have not messed with the stereo system....yet

[Helo Steve]

The pin outs and functions are printed on the stock head unit. If you are wanting to know them before you pull out the radio, I'll post them up when I get home tonight.

-Steve

[slitherv10]

I bought a new Kenwood system, and there is no generic plug that can go from my existing male plug into a female plug that will plug into my new unit. also,, I believe the speakers are all going to the amplifier in the back and thus I cannot simply plug them into the new stereo I got. I know there is a female din plug you can get to plug into the existing one and it has wires on the other end of it that you can hard wire into the one that comes with the new stereo, but, then how do I wire the power, ignition etc. The Din plug will do the speakers but there are all the rest of the wires to connect as well.

I may just have to get a new amp and run all new wire to it and go that route unless someone has done this and has a solution.

[Helo Steve]

I bought a new Kenwood system, and there is no generic plug that can go from my existing male plug into a female plug that will plug into my new unit. also,, I believe the speakers are all going to the amplifier in the back and thus I cannot simply plug them into the new stereo I got.

^^^This is the answer to your question in this thread http://driveviper.com/forums/threads...highlight=Ipod

Not being a smartass, it frustrated me as well. I even bought an adapter that specifically said it was for my model year Viper and it wasn't even close. I tried to post the pin out info for you last night but the site was down. I'll post this afternoon.

[My98RT10]

I completed this exercise a few months ago (new head unit, new speakers, new amps but using existing OEM wiring) so I guess I have something to contribute...

As for the power connections: I had the same challenge, how to connect my new head unit to the connector of the stock harness as there is no plug&play adapter available? I soldered a piece of copper wire that you use for your house wiring to the leads of the harness that came with the new headunit. After sanding the copper pieces a little bit to the right size I could stick them into the connector of the OEM harness of the car. They sit very tight in there.





BTW: Here's the PIN out of the radio:

[slitherv10]

I completed this exercise a few months ago (new head unit, new speakers, new amps but using existing OEM wiring) so I guess I have something to contribute...

As for the power connections: I had the same challenge, how to connect my new head unit to the connector of the stock harness as there is no plug&play adapter available? I soldered a piece of copper wire that you use for your house wiring to the leads of the harness that came with the new headunit. After sanding the copper pieces a little bit to the right size I could stick them into the connector of the OEM harness of the car. They sit very tight in there.





BTW: Here's the PIN out of the radio:

Are those all the wires I need to use from that plug?

How about getting power to the speakers. I believe the ones in the plug you have soldered wires to is just for the dimmer, ignition, constant power. I bought the new amp and am going to use the wires from the speakers that are back there where the amp was and just splice into them and connect them to the new amp. I then thought of running 2 rca cables and a trigger wire from the new amp to the new deck. The deck in the back has rca inputs. I will then use the existing harness the new stereo came with and connect the power, ignition, ground etc to the existing plug in the car by splicing into it as well.
I like the copper wire insert though and may try that instead of splicing into the original wires.

[My98RT10]

The speaker wires all terminate in the trunk where the amp sits. The sound signal is carried by the DIN cable, which is basically 2 stereo RCA cables plus the remote on wire. Since I did not want to run 2 new RCA cables from the dash to the trunk I made my own DIN2RCA adatpers (like many others did):

[slitherv10]

The speaker wires all terminate in the trunk where the amp sits. The sound signal is carried by the DIN cable, which is basically 2 stereo RCA cables plus the remote on wire. Since I did not want to run 2 new RCA cables from the dash to the trunk I made my own DIN2RCA adatpers (like many others did):

I saw a couple of these for sale on ebay but I thought I might need more than just this din /RCA cable to make things work.

I ran the 2 RCA cables and a trigger wire to the back...oh well..

hey...does the trigger wire hook up to the "remote" terminal at my stereo and the other end to the same remote terminal of the amp.

[My98RT10]

Yes, trigger wire connects as you wrote. If you would be planning to also install new amp(s) without new Speaker wiring then you would Need to fabricate another Adapter as the stock Speaker wires also terminate in a proprietary connector (see the PIN out in the middle). For this one, I was able to locate the proper Adapter (I think it was early Toyota type) on the Internet, had to splice in an additional cable though as one pin was not used with this Adapter.

[slitherv10]

Yes, trigger wire connects as you wrote. If you would be planning to also install new amp(s) without new Speaker wiring then you would Need to fabricate another Adapter as the stock Speaker wires also terminate in a proprietary connector (see the PIN out in the middle). For this one, I was able to locate the proper Adapter (I think it was early Toyota type) on the Internet, had to splice in an additional cable though as one pin was not used with this Adapter.

I am just going to splice into the existing speaker wires and make it simple. Leave he connector on , just splice into the speaker wires.

[Tom, F&L GoR]

I am adding here to memorialize some "learning experience" from installing a Pioneer DEH-X6600BT in a 1998 GTS.

I took the route to cut off the DIN plug from the end of the bundled vehicle cable and use the chart on the old Alpine deck to see what wire goes where. Somehow mine was reversed from top to bottom; not as if I were looking at the end of the plug and should have been looking at the back of the deck. For example, my #3 position in slitherv10's image needed to be the #5, otherwise my left front output would be directed to right rear.

My new deck had the blue/white to trigger the amp to turn on; I did this. However, having read about the possibly low amperage available, I powered the antenna amplifier with the ACC/Run [X12 20 RD/WT] supply and so my antenna amplifier is on all the time whether the radio is or not.

I first used the audio outputs from the 12-wire connector to feed the OEM amplifier. It worked (very loud) but had a consistent static from all four speakers. I undid wires one by one and learned this was the amplifier. It wasn't obvious in the instructions, but I should have used the RCA output to feed the amp. I had thought that the fancy 4xRCA to DIN connector shown above was simply a convenience, but after more reading, it's because the amp needs a signal level input and then "amplifies." It doesn't want an already-amplified audio signal. Correcting this took away the static.

If you are going to solder in the car like I did, I suggest getting a small piece of the surface you solder on (I use a piece of wood stove insulation board.) Then I had small size "battery clamps" to hold the ends of the wires on the board. The wires inside the DIN cable are very small gauge, almost hair-like, so you can't just twist the ends of them together with the wires from the RCA plugs.

Everything turned out fine. The Pioneer works for what I wanted (all else is factory, I wanted bluetooth phone and USB input.) It comes with a little microphone that can stick on the steering column. I don't like the fancy colored light show, but that can be programmed out. There is a mild physical similarity to the Alpine: http://driveviper.com/forums/threads/6666-New-Head-Unit

Good luck to the next guys doing this!

[chof6]

I know this is an old thread but I am in the process of replacing the head unit on my 1996 RT10. I think I understand most of the connections but I am not getting any sound out of the speakers. What I think I am missing is an accessory power connection from the new head unit to the amp. All the wiring diagrams I have been able to find are similar and identify the pink (constant 12v), red/white (switched 12v), black (ground), orange (illumination), and black/yellow (dimmer), but my factory connector also has a red/green wire. Can anyone tell me what the red/green wire is and is it possible it is the remote power activation for the amp? Or is there another connection to the amp I am missing? I am trying to limit the carnage and re-use the speaker wiring via the existing RCA connections or splitting the RCA connectors into positive and negative for connection to the head unit. I have already replaced the door and rear speakers which I tested with the factory head unit. In understand my 1996 RT10 is a bit different than some of the info above as I think the stereo is based on Gen I. Any help is appreciated. Craig

[My98RT10]

Well, it seems like your stock amp does not power up. In my case, the "remote" line which triggers the amp to power up is part of the DIN connector cabling (pin 4). You may need to connect this pin with the remote cable of your new head unit. But again, I have a '98 and I am not sure, if '96 is any different.

[chof6]

Thanks for the reply. To finish this up, I checked the wiring plug at the amp in the trunk and also got out my meter to confirm the unknown red/green wire is the remote/accessory connection for the amp. Once connected to the new head unit remote wire, everything worked fine with the factory wiring and RCA plugs (that go back through the amp and then regular wire to the speakers). Overall, not a terribly difficult job to replace the speakers and head unit. For a total of about $200 the sound is quite a bit better and I have simple Bluetooth connectivity. I'm sure it would be better still with a sub, but it sounds fine for now. The bass boost options for the newer head units do a good job of allowing you to tune in a deeper sound to your preference.

[My98RT10]

Glad you figured it out. I am currently working on some improvements of my system. I upgraded my DSP to the Sony XDP-4000x which offers almost too many tuning possibilities. I think this will keep me busy for quite some time until I found the right settings... ;-)