gen 1 40mm rear brake

[laney487]

Anyone got any pictures of the difference between stock and 40mm rear upgrade? Also, is that the best bang for buck upgrade on a gen 1 or is that havik performance idea of doing gen 3 brakes better?

[GTS Dean]

You cannot tell any difference externally between stock 36mm and 40mm calipers. What exactly is your performance goal with the car? If you want more effective rear braking, just remove the proportioning spring from the combination valve. I did that 26 years ago. A performance improvement for zero dollars.

[AviP]

After switching from 36mm stock to 40mm rears, the performance improvement was very noticeable. Where, under hard braking, the front end would dive and lock up towards the end of the braking, it does not do that anymore. Also, the stopping distance has reduced as well by about a car length. It's all subjective based on my half-baked testing with cones and markers. But the dive is no longer there and I don't need to modulate the pedal which tends to be the hardest to get used to under emergency conditions.

Edit: The stopping range reduction by a car length was from 60mph to a full stop on a flat road using cones to determine exact stopping distance during identical weather conditions.

[white out]

Buy a big brake kit for the front and move your stock fronts to the rear. This is a dramatic improvement in braking vs. trying to improve on an inadequate system.

[GTS Dean]

Please define "improvement." Better modulation? Better consistency/less fluid boil? Longer pad life? Longer rotor life? Shorter braking distances with higher G's? What does your car weigh, how much hp and what tires/sizes are you running? Aero?

I get all those things by still using 13" stockish (1-piece slotted) rotors, better lines, better pads, better fluid, modest front cooling mods, 40mm rear calipers with no proportioning valve spring. I have 17 sessions at Road America and COTA combined on the same rotors and pads. 315/335-18 R7, 3400#, 485hp, no aero. I'm not slow.

All Gen 1's will benefit in leg force reduction/modulation improvement by swapping in the Gen 2 booster. I don't know if the pedal ratio changed or not.

[Fatboy 18]

I went for Ipsco Stainless braided brake lines, BAER Eradispeed 2 Piece Slotted only rotors and alloy hats, Toms 40mm rear brake upgrade.

I also run MOTUL RBF 600 brake fluid. MADE A BIG DIFFRENCE to stock braking, I used to do a lot of charity driving on airfield circuits such as the UK Top Gear track, its a worrying moment when after a couple of laps you put your foot on the brake pedal and it goes straight to the floor due to overheated brake fluid! I converted my stock front brakes to a Brake fluid recycle system basically running the front brake lines into a figure of 8 running hot fluid back to the master cylinder reservoir Link to pics here https://www.flickr.com/photos/905823...57632214538274 To be honest I have not had any issues with this system but making up the hard lines and other bits this was the cheapest option I found.

[99RT10]

Most economical kit to go with is SRT fronts/40MM on the rears keeping your E-brake. Or SRT fronts/Gen 2 front calipers moved to the rears, but to still have an E-brake, IPSCO sells a remove E-brake kit

[laney487]

Dean, never heard of a zero dollar mod for the viper.. this sounds great! I just want better stopping period, yes if you drive your lines and know how to drive as i do.. the brakes are actually adequate, my only complaint is emergency stopping i pump the brakes and what not i had read the 40mm help the stoppping distance and wasnt sure if its just hype or true. SO just removining that valve will give it better stopping distance? shoot i may just do that right now then!!!

[dave6666]

IPSCO does not sell a emergency brake kit for the Gen 1/2. They sell a parking brake kit.

https://ipsco.org/Viper_files/parkingbrakekitViper.htm

For those that want to argue there's no difference between an emergency brake and a parking brake just try stopping your vehicle from 75 mph with a parking brake.

Emergency brakes are designed to stop a moving vehicle within some reasonable distance using a caliper actuation method separate from the primary caliper actuation method. Hence the mechanical cables, versus the normal hydraulic actuation. Which is why park-lock systems are technically illegal for e-brake use since they still use the primary caliper actuation method.

Parking brakes on the other hand use a small "spot" caliper who's purpose is to keep an already stationary vehicle from rolling away and becoming un-stationary. Parking brakes are not designed to stop a moving vehicle in a reasonable amount of time or distance. So if you're one of those holier than thou purists on modifying your car then keep in mind you do not have an emergency brake if you install the IPSCO parking brake.

Here is the caliper and pad for the IPSCO kit.

https://www.wilwood.com/Search/PartN...Spot%20caliper

https://www.wilwood.com/BrakePads/Br...temno=150-5982

I have 14" SRT brakes front and rear on my G2 car. And the parking brake kit. Which summed up and averaged out is like 95% braking right? Anywho, the parking brake keeps the car from rolling out of the garage but not from rolling down the driveway.

[GTS Dean]

Dean, never heard of a zero dollar mod for the viper.. this sounds great! I just want better stopping period, yes if you drive your lines and know how to drive as i do.. the brakes are actually adequate, my only complaint is emergency stopping i pump the brakes and what not i had read the 40mm help the stoppping distance and wasnt sure if its just hype or true. SO just removining that valve will give it better stopping distance? shoot i may just do that right now then!!!

The nut on the back side of the proportioning valve was REALLY tight as I recall. The spring slips around a little spool valve that progressively unseats to bleed MC pressure and reduce rear circuit output. Pull the spring, but that spool needs to stay in place to seal against the nut. Then, thoroughly bleed the rear circuit.

I really like the 40mm upgrade. My discs turn blue during track use and I get temps of 5-600F, so I'm certain they are doing good work. If there was a pressure imbalance issue to be concerned about, I would be spinning off the track backwards every time I go out.

[river rat]

Most economical kit to go with is SRT fronts/40MM on the rears keeping your E-brake. Or SRT fronts/Gen 2 front calipers moved to the rears, but to still have an E-brake, IPSCO sells a remove E-brake kit

I bet you know where someone might obtain a 40MM caliper...

[goggles Pizano]

https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...972#post447972

Oh and spring is has a lot of tension. That nut will fly across the garage.