I am doing a StopTech Big Brake kit on my car, and figured while I was in there doing this that I would do an upgrade on the bushings for the A-arms and the stock shocks. The car is on jack stands, and the rear calipers and rotors have already been removed. I moved the parking brake cable well out of the way, and made sure that the ABS cable was moved as well so it could not be damaged. This is the way that I did it, and it worked great.
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04-13-2014 #1Enthusiast
- Join Date
- Oct 2013
- Location
- Morris, IL
- Posts
- 318
How to remove the rear upper A-arm on a Gen II
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04-13-2014 #2Enthusiast
- Join Date
- Oct 2013
- Location
- Morris, IL
- Posts
- 318
Here are the remaining pics
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04-13-2014 #3Enthusiast
- Join Date
- Oct 2013
- Location
- Just visting this planet.
- Posts
- 119
The part about using a hammer to separate the ball joint from the knuckle scares me!!
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04-14-2014 #4Enthusiast
- Join Date
- Oct 2013
- Location
- Morris, IL
- Posts
- 318
If it is good enough for Chuck Tator it is good enough for me. You are NOT hitting the arm itself directly...that is the reason for the flat pry bar. It takes the impact and distributes the impact throughout the arm...and it is the vibration of this impact that causes the ball joint to become loose.
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