Loose Subwoofer Port Tube

[SA Heat]

I've seen several threads concerning Gen 3/4 subwoofer upgrades and some mention it's pretty common for the stock port tube to come loose and buzz/rattle inside the center console.

Anyone know if you can get to the port tube without removing the seats or the entire console? Where is the tube exactly and what do I need to do to secure or remove it? I'm pretty sure mine has detached (or whatever they do when they rattle)....it's really bad when playing the stereo but even rattles with road imperfections. TIA for any suggestions.

[01sapphirebob]

Interested to see what the fix is as mine is doing the same thing.

[Old School]

You don't have to remove the seats, just lean the seat backs forward. The console does not come out at all. Remove the roll bars, then the screws from the bulkhead cover, but leave the seat belts and just pull the cover forward to get access to the sub.

I fixed the loose port tube with some RTV between the tube and housing. Been good for years now.

When removing the actual speaker, there is a screw located on the back, through the magnet.

[SA Heat]

You don't have to remove the seats, just lean the seat backs forward. The console does not come out at all. Remove the roll bars, then the screws from the bulkhead cover, but leave the seat belts and just pull the cover forward to get access to the sub.

I fixed the loose port tube with some RTV between the tube and housing. Been good for years now.

When removing the actual speaker, there is a screw located on the back, through the magnet.

That's for a vert, right?

[Old School]

That's for a vert, right?

Yes

[SA Heat]

Yes

Wondering what the difference would be for a coupe.

[Steve M]

I'd highly recommend removing both seats and the waterfall behind the seats so you can properly access the subwoofer enclosure. The center console does not need to come out, but the nut at the bottom of the subwoofer box is easier to access with the console out of the way.

I removed the port tube when I tried sealing the stock enclosure many years ago, and I don't remember what it looks like in there. Either way, I'm sure an adhesive or epoxy of some sort as already mentioned above could secure it in place. You could probably even use something like adhesive lined butyl rubber sound deadening to get the job done. The key is making sure that whatever it is can withstand a wide temp. range, and remains somewhat flexible (like the RTV silicone Old School mentioned).

Whatever you do, take some pics and give us an update on whatever you find...I'm sure there are lots of Viper owners out there with this issue that may not even realize what causes it.

[Steve M]

And here are some relevant pics that will help with interior disassembly: https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...l=1#post455298

[SA Heat]

I'd highly recommend removing both seats and the waterfall behind the seats so you can properly access the subwoofer enclosure. The center console does not need to come out, but the nut at the bottom of the subwoofer box is easier to access with the console out of the way.

So you need to completely take the waterfall out to get to the port tube?

[Steve M]

So you need to completely take the waterfall out to get to the port tube?

Maybe not completely, but it does have to get lifted up out of the way to access the subwoofer enclosure.

The port tube is inside the subwoofer enclosure, which sits behind the waterfall and is held in with two bolts and one nut if I'm not mistaken. Remove the enclosure, and then you can unscrew the subwoofer, which will allow you access inside the enclosure. That's why Old School mentioned the screw on the back of the enclosure that helps hold the subwoofer in place - the subwoofer hole is your access inside the enclosure.

Why I recommend removing the seats and the entire waterfall is to prevent damaging the plastic or the soft touch coating. Removing the waterfall is a bitch with the seats in place, which is why I suggest removing them.

Please heed my warnings - these are all lessons I've learned the hard way. Drape towels over the door sills and doors when removing the seats, and leave them there when you take the waterfall out. A second set of hands is extremely helpful for the waterfall - it is very awkward to remove without scratching anything in the process, including the dash and steering wheel.

[SA Heat]

Maybe not completely, but it does have to get lifted up out of the way to access the subwoofer enclosure.

The port tube is inside the subwoofer enclosure, which sits behind the waterfall and is held in with two bolts and one nut if I'm not mistaken. Remove the enclosure, and then you can unscrew the subwoofer, which will allow you access inside the enclosure. That's why Old School mentioned the screw on the back of the enclosure that helps hold the subwoofer in place - the subwoofer hole is your access inside the enclosure.

Why I recommend removing the seats and the entire waterfall is to prevent damaging the plastic or the soft touch coating. Removing the waterfall is a bitch with the seats in place, which is why I suggest removing them.

Please heed my warnings - these are all lessons I've learned the hard way. Drape towels over the door sills and doors when removing the seats, and leave them there when you take the waterfall out. A second set of hands is extremely helpful for the waterfall - it is very awkward to remove without scratching anything in the process, including the dash and steering wheel.

Awesome....I just saw your photo tutorial too. Thank you.

[Steve M]

I've been down this road more than a few times: