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  1. #1
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    New A C Concern Engine Fan Not Coming On

    Okay guys, I found the leak where the line meets the condenser. Fixed. Also replaced slow leaking schrader valve on low side. Today, took to a friend's shop and they charged the system. Their machine doesn't even need the car to run for a charge.

    When I turn the A/C on, the cooling fan doesn't run. The compressor does engage and operate.

    I didn't try it today, but last time I drove the car, I let it idle long enough for the cooling fan to come when the engine temperature reached that temperature.

    When I last tried to top off the A/C (prior to the Schrader valve) the fan didn't run then either, but did run at the correct engine temp.

    I assume I should check the fuse, fusible link and relays....anything else?

    Just got back and haven't done anything yet...

  2. #2
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    a/c pressure switch, hi-lo fan relay, and a multimeter. Check your fan connector as well you will need to pull it apart and look inside.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Dave....I was wondering about that a/c pressure switch, too. Can I unplug and jump that to test? Meaning, if it works jumped....the switch is bad? I'm also guessing the A/C has to be evacuated to replace that...

  4. #4
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    Another update....fan connector wiring insulation is partially melted inside. Crimp connectors between connector and fan motor were full of corrosion. Going to get some 12g weatherpack connectors and replace both sides of the connection.

    I'd replace the terminals in the factory connector, but cannot find any. I did find a vendor with a pigtail, but with only 14g wire...

  5. #5
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    I believe Dan Lesser can provide the right connector pins.

  6. #6
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    South of London, Surrey
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    Gen1 or Gen 2?

  7. #7
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    Gen 1.5...1996 RT.

    Update on the fan wiring/connectors. Looks like I'm going to go with Metripack or Weatherpack. I found a vendor that says they have the fan side connector, $125. Considering the melting, etc inside the fan side connector that wasn't visible until taking it apart, I think it's best to replace both sides to be safe.

  8. #8
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    Yet another update. I cut out the corroded wiring on the fan, and soldered in some new 12g wire to a metripack connector. (One wire was so short at the point, it's very close to the fan housing) Which meant I also had to replace the harness side. Started the car, turned on the A/C and the fan ran! And, shut off. I turned the A/C off and on again, and the fan ran. Seems to cycle on and off, which likely makes sense at an ambient temp of low 60s.

    At some point, I may look at re-wiring the fan...or finding a firm that does that..

  9. #9
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    I'm glad that you got the fan running!

  10. #10
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    The OEM style connectors are a pain. When I redesigned my fan control to SSRs I also used all Weatherpack connectors including at the fan itself.


 

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