Kevin at EED or Scott at Prefix will get you sorted. Best to have it dyno tested and qualified as well.
Dan
Kevin at EED or Scott at Prefix will get you sorted. Best to have it dyno tested and qualified as well.
Dan
Kevin has done about 40 engines for me over the years. I have always been very happy. The attention to detail is great and every engine is dyno tested and qualified.
FYI, there has been a lot of parts issues lately with Covid fallout, be understanding if it takes a little longer, well worth it.
If anyone is interested, search my posts. I did an indepth examination of the oiling system. It is precise and factual. There is way too much quasi factual info floating around.
The bottom line is, the dipstick is hard to read and if you read the wrong side you could be low on oil and not know it. If you take a black permenant marker and darken the bottom of the dipstick, it is easier to read.
Ok, substitute "need" with another word.
Using the lift to change the oil makes it much easier. I will never own another garage without a lift ever again. It just makes it so much easier. Also, allows me to store an extra car. Though it does remind me, I want to get some new fluid for my lift. It's been a couple years now.
I love the oil debate! IMO throw the manual out the window for how to check, the last thing anyone needs is oil smeared up the dipstick tube causing a false reading. Checking after the car has sat for an extended period of time is the best way to get a clean read. All you need to know is where full is on a cold engine and that exact spot on the dipstick will always represent full. I know that freaks some people out but consider this: If you always measure and cut with the same broken ruler your cuts will always be perfect. Just never change between your ruler and someone else’s.
Can anybody help with the part number for the newer dipstick? I’m a dipshit who can’t get a good read on my levels. Please?
I think it might be 5037851AB although I am not positive. Check with JonB at Partsrack but make sure you are getting the later design not the 2013 part. If JonB doesn't have it here is a link to one but call Jon first.
https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/part...5037851ab.html
Thank you bad ass Viper George!
Is there anything else I should take care of while the motor is out?
I'm having the shop:
Clutch alignment
Steering rack swap
Different headers
Tune
Has anyone mentioned accusump, that is an inexpensive method to maintain oil pressure. Woodhouse has a viper accumsmp kit that is an easy install.
During the G2 era it solved a lot the track related oiling issues. The two quart unit fits nicely on the G5, the G2 cars usually went with the three quart model. As stated, Woodhouse has a kit with all the parts and pieces. The install is an all bolt-on job, no cutting or modifying anything.
I disagree about not creating oil, that is the main purpose, if the pressure drops the reservoir supplies oil to the engine. It is a temporary source of oil, just as oil starvation is typically a temporary event.
Another benefit of the accusump is that it supplies oil to the engine during a cold start, this is prior to the oil pump achieving pressure. I am not advocating everyone install an accusump. but, if you look at the risk/reward aspect, it is a winner for a track car, that is the engineer in me thinking out loud.
Last edited by Jack B; 10-02-2022 at 01:36 PM.
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