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  1. #126
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    Kevin at EED or Scott at Prefix will get you sorted. Best to have it dyno tested and qualified as well.

    Dan

  2. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Cragin View Post
    Kevin at EED or Scott at Prefix will get you sorted. Best to have it dyno tested and qualified as well.

    Dan
    Kevin is actually who I'm sending it to, surprisingly only going to be 5 weeks to get it back

  3. #128
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    Kevin has done about 40 engines for me over the years. I have always been very happy. The attention to detail is great and every engine is dyno tested and qualified.

    FYI, there has been a lot of parts issues lately with Covid fallout, be understanding if it takes a little longer, well worth it.

  4. #129
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    If anyone is interested, search my posts. I did an indepth examination of the oiling system. It is precise and factual. There is way too much quasi factual info floating around.

    The bottom line is, the dipstick is hard to read and if you read the wrong side you could be low on oil and not know it. If you take a black permenant marker and darken the bottom of the dipstick, it is easier to read.

  5. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack B View Post
    If anyone is interested, search my posts. I did an indepth examination of the oiling system. It is precise and factual. There is way too much quasi factual info floating around.

    The bottom line is, the dipstick is hard to read and if you read the wrong side you could be low on oil and not know it. If you take a black permenant marker and darken the bottom of the dipstick, it is easier to read.

    Any chance you still have those belanger headers?

  6. #131
    Quote Originally Posted by StrokerAce View Post
    True. But that isn't what he stated. He said he then looks after it's sat, before he starts it for the first time after an oil change, as his starting point from there forward.
    There would be zero measurable difference on the stick whether or not there is oil in the filter. You are talking what...less than a pint in a shallow 11 quart oil pan? There is 11 quarts in the motor regardless of where it's sitting.

  7. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperJon View Post
    There would be zero measurable difference on the stick whether or not there is oil in the filter. You are talking what...less than a pint in a shallow 11 quart oil pan? There is 11 quarts in the motor regardless of where it's sitting.
    The oil pan level would be slightly higher, but yeah, 0.1 quarts isn’t going to be noticeably different.

  8. #133
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    100% correct, the only diff is, the dipstick gets easier to read.the longer thecar sits. It is critical to read both sides of the dipstick, the low side is the correct side. The reason is, there is less oil transfer from the tube, which distorts the reading.


    Quote Originally Posted by ViperJon View Post
    There would be zero measurable difference on the stick whether or not there is oil in the filter. You are talking what...less than a pint in a shallow 11 quart oil pan? There is 11 quarts in the motor regardless of where it's sitting.

  9. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperJon View Post
    There would be zero measurable difference on the stick whether or not there is oil in the filter. You are talking what...less than a pint in a shallow 11 quart oil pan? There is 11 quarts in the motor regardless of where it's sitting.
    I don't know. If you need to leave the car sit overnight to ensure you get every last drop out I'd think a little bit of variation would be vital to your measurements. lol

  10. #135
    Quote Originally Posted by StrokerAce View Post
    I don't know. If you need to leave the car sit overnight to ensure you get every last drop out I'd think a little bit of variation would be vital to your measurements. lol
    Need has nothing to do with it. I have a big garage, a lift and plenty of time.

  11. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    Any chance you still have those belanger headers?
    You don’t want them.. ARH headers..

  12. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperJon View Post
    Need has nothing to do with it. I have a big garage, a lift and plenty of time.
    Ok, substitute "need" with another word.

    Using the lift to change the oil makes it much easier. I will never own another garage without a lift ever again. It just makes it so much easier. Also, allows me to store an extra car. Though it does remind me, I want to get some new fluid for my lift. It's been a couple years now.

  13. #138
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    I love the oil debate! IMO throw the manual out the window for how to check, the last thing anyone needs is oil smeared up the dipstick tube causing a false reading. Checking after the car has sat for an extended period of time is the best way to get a clean read. All you need to know is where full is on a cold engine and that exact spot on the dipstick will always represent full. I know that freaks some people out but consider this: If you always measure and cut with the same broken ruler your cuts will always be perfect. Just never change between your ruler and someone else’s.

  14. #139
    Can anybody help with the part number for the newer dipstick? I’m a dipshit who can’t get a good read on my levels. Please?

  15. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark1107 View Post
    Can anybody help with the part number for the newer dipstick? I’m a dipshit who can’t get a good read on my levels. Please?
    I think it might be 5037851AB although I am not positive. Check with JonB at Partsrack but make sure you are getting the later design not the 2013 part. If JonB doesn't have it here is a link to one but call Jon first.

    https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/part...5037851ab.html

  16. #141
    Thank you bad ass Viper George!

  17. #142
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    Is there anything else I should take care of while the motor is out?
    I'm having the shop:
    Clutch alignment
    Steering rack swap
    Different headers
    Tune

  18. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    Is there anything else I should take care of while the motor is out?
    I'm having the shop:
    Clutch alignment
    Steering rack swap
    Different headers
    Tune
    Send your window regulators out to get rebuilt. lol

  19. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    Is there anything else I should take care of while the motor is out?
    I'm having the shop:
    Clutch alignment
    Steering rack swap
    Different headers
    Tune
    Tractive coilovers, ACR rear diffuser and ACRE CCB upgrade

  20. #145
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    Mickey

    what are they doing for a "clutch alignment"??



    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    Is there anything else I should take care of while the motor is out?
    I'm having the shop:
    Clutch alignment
    Steering rack swap
    Different headers
    Tune

  21. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack B View Post
    Mickey

    what are they doing for a "clutch alignment"??
    They're just double checking the other shop's work, the noise prior to cutting the filter was more associated to a misaligned clutch than engine knock

  22. #147
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    Has anyone mentioned accusump, that is an inexpensive method to maintain oil pressure. Woodhouse has a viper accumsmp kit that is an easy install.

  23. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack B View Post
    Has anyone mentioned accusump, that is an inexpensive method to maintain oil pressure. Woodhouse has a viper accumsmp kit that is an easy install.
    It's the first time I've heard of it, if it'll help as I'm paranoid now

  24. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    It's the first time I've heard of it, if it'll help as I'm paranoid now
    It's really only helpful if you track the car. It's a poor man's dry sump system, so your car doesn't starve in sustained high G conditions when the oil sloshes to one side. It doesn't create oil or keep your oil levels higher.

  25. #150
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    During the G2 era it solved a lot the track related oiling issues. The two quart unit fits nicely on the G5, the G2 cars usually went with the three quart model. As stated, Woodhouse has a kit with all the parts and pieces. The install is an all bolt-on job, no cutting or modifying anything.

    I disagree about not creating oil, that is the main purpose, if the pressure drops the reservoir supplies oil to the engine. It is a temporary source of oil, just as oil starvation is typically a temporary event.

    Another benefit of the accusump is that it supplies oil to the engine during a cold start, this is prior to the oil pump achieving pressure. I am not advocating everyone install an accusump. but, if you look at the risk/reward aspect, it is a winner for a track car, that is the engineer in me thinking out loud.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lawineer View Post
    It's really only helpful if you track the car. It's a poor man's dry sump system, so your car doesn't starve in sustained high G conditions when the oil sloshes to one side. It doesn't create oil or keep your oil levels higher.
    Last edited by Jack B; 10-02-2022 at 01:36 PM.


 
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