What are my options after a rod bearing failure

[VENOM-TA]

The oil thing has been debated many, many times on here and the facebook Viper Forums.. there have been a plethora of different answers.. I decided to do my own regimen on checking the oil..
my car sits for weeks at a time mostly, weekend drives or get togethers with the local Viper group so when I do change the oil it’s every 6 months, I don’t ever get close to 3000 miles. When checking the oil I check it cold before I drive it for that 1st time by taking out the dip stick, wiping it clean, reinserting it and then pulling and reading it.. it’s always at the top of the full hash marks.
I do this just to ensure there is oil in it before initial start up after sitting for days..
After driving it I’ll let it sit for 5-8 minutes and then check it again. On my car the oil is again at the top of the full hash marks..
there has never been the slightest difference for me on checking cold or warm..
When I did my research on these cars while looking for one that was the one thing that scared me the most, oil engine failures.
I’m not saying this is the best way to do it but it works for me and I’ve now had the car 1.9 years and changed the oil 4 times in the 5000 miles I’ve personally put on it..
I’ve also done a few Blackstone oil analysis samples and have all come back with flying colors..

[Mikey]

The oil thing has been debated many, many times on here and the facebook Viper Forums.. there have been a plethora of different answers.. I decided to do my own regimen on checking the oil..
my car sits for weeks at a time mostly, weekend drives or get togethers with the local Viper group so when I do change the oil it’s every 6 months, I don’t ever get close to 3000 miles. When checking the oil I check it cold before I drive it for that 1st time by taking out the dip stick, wiping it clean, reinserting it and then pulling and reading it.. it’s always at the top of the full hash marks.
I do this just to ensure there is oil in it before initial start up after sitting for days..
After driving it I’ll let it sit for 5-8 minutes and then check it again. On my car the oil is again at the top of the full hash marks..
there has never been the slightest difference for me on checking cold or warm..
When I did my research on these cars while looking for one that was the one thing that scared me the most, oil engine failures.
I’m not saying this is the best way to do it but it works for me and I’ve now had the car 1.9 years and changed the oil 4 times in the 5000 miles I’ve personally put on it..
I’ve also done a few Blackstone oil analysis samples and have all come back with flying colors..

That's one thing I'll be adding to the regimen after this rod bearing, the oil samples

[SRT_BluByU]

My Gen 3 owner's manual states to check oil 5 minutes after a fully warmed up engine is turned off or after sitting overnight, on a level surface.

It also states to add oil if below the safe mark. I would never let it get this low, it's always topped off.

Gen V omits the sitting overnight part..

[ViperGeorge]

Gen V omits the sitting overnight part..

My guess is that they realized that the Gen 5 engine was very sensitive to a low oil level given the number of failures. Some failures were clearly due to debris but others appear to have resulted from low oil. Even the Gen 3 had oiling issues as it did not have the swinging oil pickup found in the Gen 4. Hard cornering or high banking could result in a temporary drop in oil pressure which could result in engine failure. My 2006 GTS lost an engine at Pocono from this deficiency. When getting a new engine I had Arrow (now Prefix) install the Gen 4 swinging oil pickup. Gen 3 owners should consider this upgrade.

[StrokerAce]

Wait, they made a 2006 GTS? I thought it was just an SRT10 Coupe.

[AZTVR]

My Gen 3 owner's manual states to check oil 5 minutes after a fully warmed up engine is turned off or after sitting overnight, on a level surface.

Gen V omits the sitting overnight part..

It definitely looks like Dodge personnel implemented a change during Gen V production, probably to address an issue and to caution not to check it cold. From various posts made in the past, it appears that the difference between hot vs cold level readings differs pretty much between various cars. Many owners like to blame it as being due to operator error, without having any actual test data.

To be more specific.

The 2013 Gen V owner's manual appears to be like the Gen 3 mentioned above, and states:
"The best time to check the oil level is approximately five minutes after a
fully warmed engine is turned off or before starting the
engine after it has sat overnight."

The 2014-2017 Gen V owner's manuals states:
"The best time to check the oil level is approximately five minutes after a
fully warmed engine is shut off. Do not check oil level
before starting the engine after it has sat overnight.
Checking engine oil level when the engine is cold will
give you an incorrect reading."

[ViperGeorge]

Wait, they made a 2006 GTS? I thought it was just an SRT10 Coupe.

Yea, you're right but I still think of it as a GTS like the Gen 2.

[ViperGeorge]

It definitely looks like Dodge personnel implemented a change during Gen V production, probably to address an issue and to caution not to check it cold. From various posts made in the past, it appears that the difference between hot vs cold level readings differs pretty much between various cars. Many owners like to blame it as being due to operator error, without having any actual test data.

To be more specific.

The 2013 Gen V owner's manual appears to be like the Gen 3 mentioned above, and states:
"The best time to check the oil level is approximately five minutes after a
fully warmed engine is turned off or before starting the
engine after it has sat overnight."

The 2014-2017 Gen V owner's manuals states:
"The best time to check the oil level is approximately five minutes after a
fully warmed engine is shut off. Do not check oil level
before starting the engine after it has sat overnight.
Checking engine oil level when the engine is cold will
give you an incorrect reading."

Yup. They also changed the dipstick sometime in 2014.

[StrokerAce]

Yea, you're right but I still think of it as a GTS like the Gen 2.

I remember when they brought it back. I love the coupe.

[Mark1107]

Does anyone know the part number of the more recent dipstick? I can’t tell how much oil I have in the car and it drives me nuts. One half of the dipstick reads different than the other side. It’s bullshit.

[camarochevy1970]

2017 dipstick does the same thing

[Gen5snake]

To be more specific.

The 2013 Gen V owner's manual appears to be like the Gen 3 mentioned above, and states:
"The best time to check the oil level is approximately five minutes after a
fully warmed engine is turned off or before starting the
engine after it has sat overnight."

The 2014-2017 Gen V owner's manuals states:
"The best time to check the oil level is approximately five minutes after a
fully warmed engine is shut off. Do not check oil level
before starting the engine after it has sat overnight.
Checking engine oil level when the engine is cold will
give you an incorrect reading."

This is fantastic...this exemplifies Dodge in classic fashion. You must start the engine, fully warm it up, shut it off and wait 5 minutes to see if you just destroyed your engine because it was low on oil.

[StrokerAce]

This is fantastic...this exemplifies Dodge in classic fashion. You must start the engine, fully warm it up, shut it off and wait 5 minutes to see if you just destroyed your engine because it was low on oil.

I check before and after. It seems to be a linear change. I had to add about 1/2 a quart between oil changes a few changes ago but the last two I haven't. But the split between cold and warm was the same.

The car only had 6k miles on it so not sure why it's different now (just under 10k miles) but the delta seems to always be the same. I let it set for an hour after changing it the last time so I took a pic of the dipstick. Then, I took another pic after it was warm and I gave it 5 minutes. Then did it at ten minutes. When

[Mikey]

I check before and after. It seems to be a linear change. I had to add about 1/2 a quart between oil changes a few changes ago but the last two I haven't. But the split between cold and warm was the same.

The car only had 6k miles on it so not sure why it's different now (just under 10k miles) but the delta seems to always be the same. I let it set for an hour after changing it the last time so I took a pic of the dipstick. Then, I took another pic after it was warm and I gave it 5 minutes. Then did it at ten minutes. When

Mine seemed to be consuming a good amount of oil then, not sure how uncommon that is

[Lawineer]

This is fantastic...this exemplifies Dodge in classic fashion. You must start the engine, fully warm it up, shut it off and wait 5 minutes to see if you just destroyed your engine because it was low on oil.

How do you fuck up a dipstick. It's literally a STICK you stick into the oil. That's it. It is the most crude way I can think of to measure oil levels.

Honestly, why doesn't the car have a (better?) oil level sensor?

[TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM]

How do you fuck up a dipstick. It's literally a STICK you stick into the oil. That's it. It is the most crude way I can think of to measure oil levels.

Honestly, why doesn't the car have a (better?) oil level sensor?

Oil level sensors are ok for basic cars like a soccer mom's minivan that spends most of its life 1 qt down. For more high-performance based ( expensive) engines dipsticks are still by far the best way togo. The dipstick can also give you more information then just your oil level. The best part about oil level sensors unfortunately is they are prone fail or give false readings so they really should be a reference only tool backed up by dipstick

[ViperJon]

Checking engine oil level when the engine is cold will
give you an incorrect reading."

Here we go again. That is of course unless you know EXACTLY on the dipstick where 11 quarts of oil in a cold engine should be.

I change my own oil. When I do, I let the oil drain out for hours, sometimes overnight. There is not a drop coming out of it by morning. It is completely empty. I put the filter on and the oil pan bolt back in. Then I put in exactly 11 quarts of oil. Not 10....not 10 1-2/".....11. Then it again sits for hours till its as drained into the pan as humanly possible. Then I note where exactly 11 quarts of oil is on the dipstick. Cold. It is not possible to be more accurate there is no oil in the motor anywhere. I know with zero doubt where 11 quarts of oil should be cold. And that is what I use. There is no smearing from hot oil and there is no ambiguity it is precisely exact. Cold and the next morning.

[StrokerAce]

Here we go again. That is of course unless you know EXACTLY on the dipstick where 11 quarts of oil in a cold engine should be.

I change my own oil. When I do, I let the oil drain out for hours, sometimes overnight. There is not a drop coming out of it by morning. It is completely empty. I put the filter on and the oil pan bolt back in. Then I put in exactly 11 quarts of oil. Not 10....not 10 1-2/".....11. Then it again sits for hours till its as drained into the pan as humanly possible. Then I note where exactly 11 quarts of oil is on the dipstick. Cold. It is not possible to be more accurate there is no oil in the motor anywhere. I know with zero doubt where 11 quarts of oil should be cold. And that is what I use. There is no smearing from hot oil and there is no ambiguity it is precisely exact. Cold and the next morning.

Unless you have a different amount in the filter after it's been ran vs what you fill it with out of the 11 quarts.

[Lawineer]

Oil level sensors are ok for basic cars like a soccer mom's minivan that spends most of its life 1 qt down. For more high-performance based ( expensive) engines dipsticks are still by far the best way togo. The dipstick can also give you more information then just your oil level. The best part about oil level sensors unfortunately is they are prone fail or give false readings so they really should be a reference only tool backed up by dipstick

I never said to eliminate the dipstick. But it wouldn't take much to have a decent oil level sensor that could tell you at startup that you're a quart or two low. Heck, the car already has has accelerometers out the ying yang. It could easily even tell if it was on a flat surface. If it's on a flat surface and doesn't have any significant forces (lateral, etc), and the oil level is below X, send a message. It's a pretty small, simple and cheap sensor. Heck, put two next to each other. You know how much that would have saved them in engine recalls? It would cost a dollar, maybe two, for a *good* oil level sensor.

Even aside from that- shit just happens. I had a client who got their oil changed in a relatively nice car. Somehow, some way, something went wrong (can't remember) and all the oil leaked out while they were driving. Oil filters get loose. Things vibrate. Gaskets/crush rings are forgotten. People forget to torque things down (this is why we safety wire bolts). And high performance engines just burn oil, if for no other reason, how they're used.



BTW: what other info are you getting from your dispstick? Or are you referring to finding coolant or something in your oil.

[Lawineer]

Here we go again. That is of course unless you know EXACTLY on the dipstick where 11 quarts of oil in a cold engine should be.

I change my own oil. When I do, I let the oil drain out for hours, sometimes overnight. There is not a drop coming out of it by morning. It is completely empty. I put the filter on and the oil pan bolt back in. Then I put in exactly 11 quarts of oil. Not 10....not 10 1-2/".....11. Then it again sits for hours till its as drained into the pan as humanly possible. Then I note where exactly 11 quarts of oil is on the dipstick. Cold. It is not possible to be more accurate there is no oil in the motor anywhere. I know with zero doubt where 11 quarts of oil should be cold. And that is what I use. There is no smearing from hot oil and there is no ambiguity it is precisely exact. Cold and the next morning.

Man, talk about overkill. The amount of oil that comes out after even 30 min (if you want to be ultra safe) vs 30 hours is pretty much negligible and non-compounding. That's a lot of work for an oil change.

You could let it drain for 15 min or 15 years. If you put 11 quarts back in, you'll only have added 11 quarts. If you're really OCD, just jack the other side of the car up a touch higher.

Just for fun, next time you change your oil, remove the pan after 30 min and put beaker or something underneath. See how much oil comes out. I bet it's less than half an oz.

Unless you have a different amount in the filter after it's been ran vs what you fill it with out of the 11 quarts.

Assuming he uses a new oil filter and he uses a total of 11 quarts (whether it's all in the engine or part of it into the filter and some into the engine), he's going to have 11 quarts in the engine no matter what.

It's an oil change guys. Don't over think it. I just take off the filter and draincock, fill up a bottle for oil analysis, get out from under the car, wash my hands/take off my gloves, get the oil, filter and funnel down from the shelf and lined up, pop the hood, fill the filter with oil, etc, maybe go get a drink of water, come back down and within those 15 min, it's done draining. I put the new filter on, put the draincock back in, low the car, then fill it with the correct amount, check the level, and be on my way.

**except last time. Last time I added a trip to autozone and three hours of cleaning oil out of my garage because I didn't realize I forgot to open the drain pan breather valve and I had about 5 quarts of oil from the daily driver to clean up by the time I heard the bubbling. JFC, what a disaster. The best part was that I couldn't get the draincock back in to fill the engine back up without laying in the oil under the car.
It was also my first oil change, and I discovered the previous oil change monkey lost the gasket for the oil canister solved the problem not by getting a new gasket, but by torquing the fucking oil filter cap down so tight, my impact couldn't take it off and I had to use a long wrench + a mallet. All while laying in used engine oil.

My neighbor-buddy who is also a car guy found it very entertaining.

[Pappy]

Here we go again. That is of course unless you know EXACTLY on the dipstick where 11 quarts of oil in a cold engine should be.

I change my own oil. When I do, I let the oil drain out for hours, sometimes overnight. There is not a drop coming out of it by morning. It is completely empty. I put the filter on and the oil pan bolt back in. Then I put in exactly 11 quarts of oil. Not 10....not 10 1-2/".....11. Then it again sits for hours till its as drained into the pan as humanly possible. Then I note where exactly 11 quarts of oil is on the dipstick. Cold. It is not possible to be more accurate there is no oil in the motor anywhere. I know with zero doubt where 11 quarts of oil should be cold. And that is what I use. There is no smearing from hot oil and there is no ambiguity it is precisely exact. Cold and the next morning.

I did the same process -once. That enabled me to calibrate my dipstick to see exactly where the oil level is when fully serviced and cold. Don't forget to completely fill the oil filter with part of the 11 quarts when installing, or as a better option you can start the engine and then let it cool and drain down to finish the dipstick calibration. That will account for any oil in the oil cooler and lines that may or may not drain into the pan each time the engine is shut down.

[StrokerAce]

Man, talk about overkill. The amount of oil that comes out after even 30 min (if you want to be ultra safe) vs 30 hours is pretty much negligible and non-compounding. That's a lot of work for an oil change.

You could let it drain for 15 min or 15 years. If you put 11 quarts back in, you'll only have added 11 quarts. If you're really OCD, just jack the other side of the car up a touch higher.

Just for fun, next time you change your oil, remove the pan after 30 min and put beaker or something underneath. See how much oil comes out. I bet it's less than half an oz.




Assuming he uses a new oil filter and he uses a total of 11 quarts (whether it's all in the engine or part of it into the filter and some into the engine), he's going to have 11 quarts in the engine no matter what.

It's an oil change guys. Don't over think it. I just take off the filter and draincock, fill up a bottle for oil analysis, get out from under the car, wash my hands/take off my gloves, get the oil, filter and funnel down from the shelf and lined up, pop the hood, fill the filter with oil, etc, maybe go get a drink of water, come back down and within those 15 min, it's done draining. I put the new filter on, put the draincock back in, low the car, then fill it with the correct amount, check the level, and be on my way.

**except last time. Last time I added a trip to autozone and three hours of cleaning oil out of my garage because I didn't realize I forgot to open the drain pan breather valve and I had about 5 quarts of oil from the daily driver to clean up by the time I heard the bubbling. JFC, what a disaster. The best part was that I couldn't get the draincock back in to fill the engine back up without laying in the oil under the car.
It was also my first oil change, and I discovered the previous oil change monkey lost the gasket for the oil canister solved the problem not by getting a new gasket, but by torquing the fucking oil filter cap down so tight, my impact couldn't take it off and I had to use a long wrench + a mallet. All while laying in used engine oil.

My neighbor-buddy who is also a car guy found it very entertaining.

Correct, but not to be measured in this manner. The amount in the pan, which the dip stick measures, is different as that is separate from the filter itself.

[Lawineer]

Correct, but not to be measured in this manner. The amount in the pan, which the dip stick measures, is different as that is separate from the filter itself.

After the first start, it's all the same.

[swexlin]

Yup. They also changed the dipstick sometime in 2014.

Correct. The dipstick on my 2013 the hashmark represented 2 qts, I believe. In other words, at the bottom of the hash, you were down to. The updated stick the hash was 1 qt, to lessen user error.

[StrokerAce]

After the first start, it's all the same.

True. But that isn't what he stated. He said he then looks after it's sat, before he starts it for the first time after an oil change, as his starting point from there forward.