What are my options after a rod bearing failure

[ellowviper]

I'd like to know definitively where the metal particulates are originating from (given the amount). Bearing and most of the internals can be done without removing the engine from the vehicle (done it twice)....and I don't think bad rod or main bearings would result in particulates like those in the oil and filter. However if you don't know the cause of the metal particulates...sort of a moot discussion point. My bet is on cam journals which would require extensive reworking, maybe even a new block depending on the scoring. Be curious as to what is actually found during the teardown...assuming full disclosure is provided.

[Mikey]

Would be a very impressive NA build. Almost exactly 100hp/L out of a massive 8.4. Sounds awesome. I bet you'll love the extra 200 horses.

My neighbors won't

[StrokerAce]

My neighbors won't

I open the cutouts for one neighbor. He is in to muscle/sports cars and he thinks the electric cutout is the cats ass coolest thing. Haha A couple neighbors give me the dirty looks but oh well. You'll be fine.

[Mikey]

Anyone have a set of belanger headers they want to sell? Install and pull is going to be 4k, so I'll be over budget but I can't bastardize the build by cheaping out on headers

[Lawineer]

My neighbors won't

I have a unbelievably pain in the ass neighbor. He literally stormed INTO my house because my guy's night (steak and cigars type thing) on a freaking Tuesday was too loud for him. I told him that next time he's getting shot. He was complaining about my dog running on his roof (zero chance, she sleeps in bed with the humans). Turns it was a squirrel running across his roof. Yes, this MF complains about SQUIRRELS on his roof making too much noise.

Needless to say, after I installed in high flow cats, I made sure I drove the Viper to work every morning, leaving at 6AM.

He's also the kind of nosey jackass that asks me why I am working on my car and I don't just pay a mechanic and once told me not to waste so much of my money on cars.

[V10LEE]

Noted, we still haven't pulled the engine so I'm trying to make a list of everything to knock out during the build. Anyone recommend Belander headers?
I'm curious as to why he's doing a 5 cut valve job rather than porting, maybe to keep the low end Torque?

Not a fan of Belanger headers. Get a 5 into1 header instead like American Racing header. Viper has enough low and mid range power. The 5 into1 will net you more higher peak power.

[Jack B]

That was my thought also, that is a major amount of large metal shavings. That failure was not a simple turned rod bearing. For information purposes, the viper does not have cam bearings, you could be right, the source could be the cam journals.

Just an opinion, Prefix is the bullet-proof option and a pleasure to work with. they did my HC/9L, the engine dyno was 780. I also had them do a break-in on the dyno

I'd like to know definitively where the metal particulates are originating from (given the amount). Bearing and most of the internals can be done without removing the engine from the vehicle (done it twice)....and I don't think bad rod or main bearings would result in particulates like those in the oil and filter. However if you don't know the cause of the metal particulates...sort of a moot discussion point. My bet is on cam journals which would require extensive reworking, maybe even a new block depending on the scoring. Be curious as to what is actually found during the teardown...assuming full disclosure is provided.

[Mikey]

Not a fan of Belanger headers. Get a 5 into1 header instead like American Racing header. Viper has enough low and mid range power. The 5 into1 will net you more higher peak power.

I was told they tend to exhaust leak after some time

[SRT_BluByU]

I'll second that prefix has been awesome to work with on multiple occasions.

[efnfast]

That was my thought also, that is a major amount of large metal shavings. That failure was not a simple turned rod bearing. For information purposes, the viper does not have cam bearings, you could be right, the source could be the cam journals.

Just an opinion, Prefix is the bullet-proof option and a pleasure to work with. they did my HC/9L, the engine dyno was 780. I also had them do a break-in on the dyno

I thought I read some posts on here about Prefix engines grenading and having to be sent back because they weren't assembled properly? Not saying they do bad work, just that I've seen posts indicating some issues every so often.

[Mikey]

I'll second that prefix has been awesome to work with on multiple occasions.

As far as a rebuild, I'm sure I can't go wrong with any of the Vioer exchanges, calvo, prefix etc. Kevin does all custom work instead of packages, so he was able to build me something more for about the same price as a simple rebuild

[Jack B]

I was told they tend to exhaust leak after some time

I have had both on my G5. I moved to the ARH because the Prefix platform used ARH during development. The ARH are a bit trickier to install. . You must also use the oem gasket (not Balanger gasket) at the heads and you also have to use gaskets on the machined couplings.

[Mikey]

I have had both on my G5. I moved to the ARH because the Prefix platform used ARH during development. The ARH are a bit trickier to install. . You must also use the oem gasket (not Balanger gasket) at the heads and you also have to use gaskets on the machined couplings.

Did you end up keeping your stock headers? I'm trying to move mine to save some coin after this


Edit: So now I'm down to figuring out tuning. Torrie came highly recommended but I'd be paying 2 people for 1 tune (the shop and torrie). The shop I'm working with was the lead tech at Dallas Performance, so I'd imagine he's familiar with tuning a v10, though it's NA

[Lawineer]

Did you end up keeping your stock headers? I'm trying to move mine to save some coin after this


Edit: So now I'm down to figuring out tuning. Torrie came highly recommended but I'd be paying 2 people for 1 tune (the shop and torrie). The shop I'm working with was the lead tech at Dallas Performance, so I'd imagine he's familiar with tuning a v10, though it's NA

Who are you using?
Either way, it's very platform specific.

[Mikey]

Who are you using?
Either way, it's very platform specific.

The shop I'm at is with Luke Oas, I'd prefer to use Torrie, but not going to pay double to do it

[Jack B]

i did keep the stock headers, cats and muflers

Did you end up keeping your stock headers? I'm trying to move mine to save some coin after this


Edit: So now I'm down to figuring out tuning. Torrie came highly recommended but I'd be paying 2 people for 1 tune (the shop and torrie). The shop I'm working with was the lead tech at Dallas Performance, so I'd imagine he's familiar with tuning a v10, though it's NA

[Mikey]

Can anyone confirm when the appropriate time to check the oil is? I checked it once a week when it was fully cold, always came out fine. The shop that cut the filter open said it was on the low end near the crosshatch

[SRT_BluByU]

in the owners manual; with engine at operating temp, 5 min after shutdown.. while on level surface (paraphrased).

[ViperGeorge]

in the owners manual; with engine at operating temp, 5 min after shutdown.. while on level surface (paraphrased).

Bingo, the winning answer. Checking the oil cold can result in a safe reading when the engine is in fact low on oil. As I have said a dozen times on this forum the dipstick is designed to account for the oil left in the engine immediately (within 5 minutes) of engine shutdown. Checking it cold allows for more oil to drain from the engine into the pan causing the level to appear higher. I have even posted an email from the SRT engineer responsible for the oiling system that confirms exactly this. He said the V10 is a big engine (duh) and there is a lot of oil that can be left in the engine immediately after shutdown.

I have posted pictures of my dipstick after sitting overnight and immediately after shutdown. The difference in readings is noticeable (at least a quart or more). I know that many people on here think it is ok to check the oil when cold, that is their choice. BUT please don't bash me because you disagree with the engineers or the owners manual. I for one think it is prudent to follow the procedure laid out in the manual.

[Mikey]

Bingo, the winning answer. Checking the oil cold can result in a safe reading when the engine is in fact low on oil. As I have said a dozen times on this forum the dipstick is designed to account for the oil left in the engine immediately (within 5 minutes) of engine shutdown. Checking it cold allows for more oil to drain from the engine into the pan causing the level to appear higher. I have even posted an email from the SRT engineer responsible for the oiling system that confirms exactly this. He said the V10 is a big engine (duh) and there is a lot of oil that can be left in the engine immediately after shutdown.

I have posted pictures of my dipstick after sitting overnight and immediately after shutdown. The difference in readings is noticeable (at least a quart or more). I know that many people on here think it is ok to check the oil when cold, that is their choice. BUT please don't bash me because you disagree with the engineers or the owners manual. I for one think it is prudent to follow the procedure laid out in the manual.

When searching around I kept seeing different answers, but this makes sense. On average, how much oil does it consume? I drove 1k miles within that 3 weeks after leaving the shop, can't imagine it got substantially low within that time

[StrokerAce]

I can confirm. If I check it cold or warm it's about 1/8-1/4 inch lower on the stick when warm.

[Old School]

I'll bet a bunch of guys on this forum are checking their oil right now....

[ViperGeorge]

When searching around I kept seeing different answers, but this makes sense. On average, how much oil does it consume? I drove 1k miles within that 3 weeks after leaving the shop, can't imagine it got substantially low within that time

Well that depends. My street driven 2014 GTS burns virtually no oil in 3,000 miles (I change it every 3,000). My 2017 ACR will burn a quart or two if it has been tracked hard, which it usually is. Remember too that if you or the shop checked your car cold it may have been low to start.

[SRT_BluByU]

over a 4 engine avg.. all broken in correctly.. same driver.. same drive cycle.. avg was around 1qt/1k miles

- - - Updated - - -

I for one think it is prudent to follow the procedure laid out in the manual.

i never understand why this isnt obvious to all...

[Old School]

My Gen 3 owner's manual states to check oil 5 minutes after a fully warmed up engine is turned off or after sitting overnight, on a level surface.

It also states to add oil if below the safe mark. I would never let it get this low, it's always topped off.