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  1. #1
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    What are my options after a rod bearing failure

    My car is a 2015, so I don't believe it's under warranty

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  2. #2
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    I assume you are hearing a rod knock

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old School View Post
    I assume you are hearing a rod knock
    Not sure what I heard, the car started making this noise after having the clutch changed

    https://youtu.be/-QliPEnua5o

  4. #4
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    Oof you've had a rough go with that car. Send that sucker to Calvo and get it sorted.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Docmartin View Post
    Oof you've had a rough go with that car. Send that sucker to Calvo and get it sorted.
    I want to just light it on fire and be done with it

  6. #6
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    Man that’s sickening to see, my heart goes out to ya! What oil filter were you running? Doesn’t look like an MO-041 going by the pics (not that it’s the cause…just curious).

    Not sure I’m recalling this correctly, but I’m thinking Calvo was one of the shops that advocated converting crankshaft oiling from cross-drilled to high speed so-called “Chevy” oiling. Which cylinders bearing(s) failed?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLYBRI View Post
    Man that’s sickening to see, my heart goes out to ya! What oil filter were you running? Doesn’t look like an MO-041 going by the pics (not that it’s the cause…just curious).

    Not sure I’m recalling this correctly, but I’m thinking Calvo was one of the shops that advocated converting crankshaft oiling from cross-drilled to high speed so-called “Chevy” oiling. Which cylinders bearing(s) failed?
    I think mobil 1 for whatever reason

    No details yet, they had just cut the filter right around closing, so will probably find out today. I didn't think this would be an issue in 2015s.

  8. #8
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    First task will be to remove the rod caps and see what is damaged. It could be anything from repolishing the crank and installing new bearings, if there is no crank damage, to a more significant rebuild if there is. I have observed your many posts from when you were looking for a car and selecting this one to today. I would venture that car had quite a bit of track usage prior to your ownership, and how it was maintained is crucial to understanding how it failed. I expect that low oil level at some point contributed to the failure. That said there is a lot of debris present so I am crossing my fingers that you find a positive outcome.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperSRT View Post
    First task will be to remove the rod caps and see what is damaged. It could be anything from repolishing the crank and installing new bearings, if there is no crank damage, to a more significant rebuild if there is. I have observed your many posts from when you were looking for a car and selecting this one to today. I would venture that car had quite a bit of track usage prior to your ownership, and how it was maintained is crucial to understanding how it failed. I expect that low oil level at some point contributed to the failure. That said there is a lot of debris present so I am crossing my fingers that you find a positive outcome.
    They're sending the motor off to rebuild. He estimates a complete failure is going to be about 20k. So much for "bulletproof"

  10. #10
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    just curious, since you have to rebuild anyway, is 20k close enough to going with a 9l at this point?

  11. #11
    What the history of this Snake? was it an old bonderaunt Viper? Reading through your process and experiance with the car.. the extremely worn brakes, aftermarket clutch, apparent exhaust modifications at some point, smoked clutch and now bearings it really makes you wonder what those first 10k miles looked like.. Ive owned a few Gen V Vipers and roughly 100k miles of combined seat time between them all combined and have found them all to be extremely reliable and durable cars. I suppopse following exacting factory maintenance recommendations and parts has helped.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by blingnoring View Post
    just curious, since you have to rebuild anyway, is 20k close enough to going with a 9l at this point?
    I've already put 15k into the car, I'm done

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRT_BluByU View Post
    What the history of this Snake? was it an old bonderaunt Viper? Reading through your process and experiance with the car.. the extremely worn brakes, aftermarket clutch, apparent exhaust modifications at some point, smoked clutch and now bearings it really makes you wonder what those first 10k miles looked like.. Ive owned a few Gen V Vipers and roughly 100k miles of combined seat time between them all combined and have found them all to be extremely reliable and durable cars. I suppopse following exacting factory maintenance recommendations and parts has helped.
    No clue, I have the names of the former owners, not sure if it would say anything if it was a Bonduraunt Viper. This by far has been my worst experience with a car and has really put me off to owning one again, I'm wondering if this could have been caught earlier during an oil change.

    I'm leaning on the side of selling it once the motor is done, which is going to bother me since someone is essentially getting a new Viper from my expense
    Last edited by Mikey; 09-22-2022 at 12:32 PM.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    No clue, I have the names of the former owners, not sure if it would say anything if it was a Bonduraunt Viper. This by far has been my worst experience with a car and has really put me off to owning one again, I'm wondering if this could have been caught earlier during an oil change
    Given the wear seen visually I would say no doubt an oil analysis performed when you first got it would have been beneficial, and possibly avoided big costs. I really do not understand a $20k price tag unless the engine was damaged beyond repair (block, heads, crank, etc).

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperSRT View Post
    Given the wear seen visually I would say no doubt an oil analysis performed when you first got it would have been beneficial, and possibly avoided big costs. I really do not understand a $20k price tag unless the engine was damaged beyond repair (block, heads, crank, etc).
    This is apparently with the slight modifications to address bearing issues and oil consumption. I'm confused as to why they aren't checking part of it in house

    Edit: so the 20k is a worst case scenario, hopefully that won't be the case
    Last edited by Mikey; 09-22-2022 at 12:58 PM.

  16. #16
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    to buy a new engine for it, it would cost you only $18k

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimuaya View Post
    to buy a new engine for it, it would cost you only $18k
    Do you have a link for it?

  18. #18
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    Suggest that you consider contacting Scot at Prefix and discuss options...i.e. let them do any necessary rebuild vs. new engine(which they could supply).

    Link:

    https://www.prefix.com/performance/
    Last edited by Steve-Indy; 09-22-2022 at 01:20 PM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperSRT View Post
    Given the wear seen visually I would say no doubt an oil analysis performed when you first got it would have been beneficial, and possibly avoided big costs. I really do not understand a $20k price tag unless the engine was damaged beyond repair (block, heads, crank, etc).
    Yeah, I'd assume $5-7k for a rebuild using existing rod, crank and pistons. You're basically just freshening up the block and replacing bearings and gaskets.
    I think you're in a position where you can either take a huge hit on the car and sell it as is or do something like a 9L rebuild and enjoying it. I think you're going to get hurt worse by doing a bare bones rebuild.


    This car had to be someone's track car or something. Too much stuff going on to just be bad luck.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lawineer View Post
    Yeah, I'd assume $5-7k for a rebuild using existing rod, crank and pistons. You're basically just freshening up the block and replacing bearings and gaskets.
    I think you're in a position where you can either take a huge hit on the car and sell it as is or do something like a 9L rebuild and enjoying it. I think you're going to get hurt worse by doing a bare bones rebuild.


    This car had to be someone's track car or something. Too much stuff going on to just be bad luck.
    I can stomach 5-7k. 9L and I'll need headers, maybe a new clutch, and then a new tune. They're denying any issues with the clutch/alignment, I'm just hoping after all this that at least that was sorted

    After this, my car has LITERALLY been in the shop more than in my garage
    Last edited by Mikey; 09-22-2022 at 01:37 PM.

  21. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve-Indy View Post
    Suggest that you consider contacting Scot at Prefix and discuss options...i.e. let them do any necessary rebuild vs. new engine(which they could supply).

    Link:

    https://www.prefix.com/performance/
    +1
    Better do some improvement while at it

  22. #22
    5-7k for a rebuild, including parts and labor, in 2022..?

    Damn guys, you have bargains down south

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    My car is a 2015,
    Quote Originally Posted by SRT_BluByU View Post
    What the history of this Snake? was it an old bonderaunt Viper?
    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    No clue, I have the names of the former owners, not sure if it would say anything if it was a Bonduraunt Viper.
    I am pretty confident in my list of known and probable Vipers used by the Bonduraunt school. None are 2015 Vipers.

  24. #24
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    Brand new engine will be 40k. Nah, I'm good
    He did confirm though, 20k is worst case scenario

    Not sure who I spoke to, it wasn't Scot

  25. #25
    May as well just go with it - $20k isn't the end of the world. I had to get my sewer line replaced from the house to the street, and it was $40k. Didn't get any joy out of that afterwards - I'd be happy to just turd in the woods rather than pay $40k for the joy of being able to use indoor plumbing. But, that vote didn't go in my favor.

    If you can do a 9L, or even just their base rebuild, you'll be happy with it.


 
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