Coilover install

[efnfast]

I picked up some Aldan coilovers to install in my 2001. The design is different than I'm used to installing. Wondering:
(1) Are there any tricks to removing old/installing new into rear forks? Do I just spin the old coilover out of the fork and spin the new one in all the way?

(2) I'm used to coilovers having 2 rings - a base the spring sits on and a locking ring underneath it. These only have 1 large ring that's split with an allen headed bolt holding it together. Do you loosen the allen bolt, spin the ring up/down to desired ride height, then tighten the allen bolt to lock the ring in place?

[dave6666]

1) no idea

2) yes, but usually things like that have socket head set screws not allen bolts. The set screw usually looks cleaner than a bolt if that was the original design fit.

[efnfast]

sorry, brain fart, yes, they're socket head screws, not allens

[usmcfieldmp]

1. That's all that needs to be done, but the old ones will be in there tight. I essentially wedged my old damper body between two pieces of wood and then used my press to apply enough pressure to prevent rotation, then I used a couple 3/8" ratchet extensions through the lower bolt hole to break them free.

2. Mine had two rings - one silver, one black. Have they changed designs in the 16 months?

[efnfast]

The design you posted - base ring and locking ring - is what I'm familiar with from QA1, Koni, etc.

This is what I've got - 1 really fat ring with a split and socket headed bolt

[GTS Dean]

That's a threaded shaft collar and I've never seen one like that on a shock absorber before. Simple, but may not end up in a convenient orientation to lock if you are trying to be exact about corner weighting. Penske now uses a single adjuster collar with threaded set screws that bear against the body threads. They supply nylon-tipped screws that keep from damaging the threads.

[efnfast]

i spoke w/ them and apparently they changed the design. I dunno, I like the traditional 2 ring design, but it is what it is.

directions
https://aldanamerican.com/wp-content...structions.pdf

[dave6666]

1) My bad on the screw terminology. Those ARE Allen heads bolts, not set screws. I'd never seen those shocks in person so I assumed set screws not bolts. The terms Allen head and socket head are interchangeable. But not the terms set screw and bolt. So once again, apology for that.

2) The coilovers on my H1 use the same split collar with the Allen head bolt. That truck beats itself badly enough that every couple of months I have to tighten all of the interior trim screws in the roof to keep them from eventually falling out. But the shocks remain as they should.

Summary: Allen head bolt > H1, so Allen head bolt surely > Viper

20220922_172658_HDR.jpg

[efnfast]

How the @#$#@$#@%@# do you remove the rear strut body from the rear fork?

I put the assembly in my vice and put wood against the strut body, then tighten the vice until the wood compresses against the strut body and the spring is locked in the vice. But when I try to unscrew the fork, all I end up doing is spinning the strut body and fork as one piece.

I've tried locking the strut body with wood, metal, everything, and all that happens is it just keeps spinning as one piece - I can't get the damn strut body to stay put. I'm almost at the point where I'm going to cut the spring off in order to stick a pipe wrench on the strut body.

[efnfast]

okay, nevermind, I'm stupid.

I tried to unscrew the fork by holding the body between the spring with wood (and metal and stuff)

You have to get a spring compressor, compress spring, remove hat, remove spring, then clamp the entire body in a vice to have any chance, then beat on the fork (carefully) with a pipewrench until it breaks free

not fun/10