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  1. #1

    Slow to crank when Hot

    Changed battery, cleaned and install new ends on cables. Cranks fine when cold.

    Starter Time??

  2. #2
    Most likely the starter getting weak.

  3. #3
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    Connectors to my starter were pretty burnt and when ohming out the wire to the starter there was unusually high resistance when the wire was hot. I brought the car into the garage and got it on the lift right after a long drive so I was able to check it right away. Replaced the starter wire and its been good. That wouldn't rule out a starter either like proedge said but its something to check first.

  4. #4
    Sounds very familiar.

    Interested to hear if the new starter resolves the condition.

    Also, did you go with the Mopar replacement or other?

  5. #5
    AC Delco, New not remanufacture, I can keep and rebuild my old MOPAR unit!

  6. #6
    Big power line from the starter to the battery?

    Quote Originally Posted by BlueSnake44 View Post
    Connectors to my starter were pretty burnt and when ohming out the wire to the starter there was unusually high resistance when the wire was hot. I brought the car into the garage and got it on the lift right after a long drive so I was able to check it right away. Replaced the starter wire and its been good. That wouldn't rule out a starter either like proedge said but its something to check first.

  7. #7
    Just finished, starts fine, the problem is when it's hot out and a 15/30 min drive. Then it's slow to crank. Dose seem to crank faster, RPM before it fires off seems higher.

    Will report back in a week.

  8. #8
    Following

    Have the same symptoms, but it's not a problem.

  9. #9
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    My 08 has cranked like that hot for 10 years. Not sure I would worry about it.

  10. #10
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    Your Starter maybe getting heat soaked , I've heard of some putting a heat shield on to minimize the issue from Header's.

  11. #11
    Tech Team

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    With age the cable from the back of the car to the front develops voltage drop. Gets worse with heat.

  12. #12
    Cable will be next if it's not the starter. So far it's good. Crank 10-12 times at the autocross, that's the problem.

  13. #13
    Starter fixed it! Very hot today, many starts, all good.

    Heads up the AC/Delco starter dose not have the locking electrical connector the the MOPAR unit has. I used a wire tie strap.

    New (not reman) AC/Delco was $150, I did not check with Dodge.

    Rebuild kit copper parts is $50
    Last edited by pokeyl; 06-18-2022 at 10:26 PM.

  14. #14
    Outstanding. Thanks for following up!

  15. #15
    Another update, It's back. I will changing the start relay next.

  16. #16
    I've been randomly having the same issues, but it's totally random when and if it happens, however, it is always when the engine is hot on a hot day. At least I now know to check the wires first, but it's not enough of an issue to mess with it yet.

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by J TNT View Post
    Your Starter maybe getting heat soaked , I've heard of some putting a heat shield on to minimize the issue from Header's.
    This is true. Thus far, I've not had this problem with my modified (by Arrow) Gen IV, but my modified Corvette C6 (with aftermarket headers) required a new starter to remedy this condition. A known condition. Heat soak from the close aboard collector / header was degrading the solenoid and starter over time. Cold start was never a problem. Only after a 30 minute drive (or thereabouts) would the starter be reluctant to crank. Car behaved like the battery was dead / dying - but that was not the case.

    Heat shielding for the new starter (and nearby wiring and connectors!) is recommended too!

  18. #18
    It's looking like I got my slow cranking issue solved.

    1. I keep her on the trickle charger all the time now.. which I didn't do before.

    2. Added a Starter Heat Shield wrap thingy bought off of Amazon. Was a perfect fit. LINK

    So far so good after a number of thorough heat soakings.

  19. #19
    Changed the starter relay, no help. But I took the under hood fuse box cove roff and the relays are so hot you can't touch them. took out the starter relay cooled it off starts right up.

  20. #20
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    Probably wouldn't hurt to check the status of the wiring on the back side of that PDC.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by pokeyl View Post
    But I took the under hood fuse box cove roff and the relays are so hot you can't touch them. took out the starter relay cooled it off starts right up.
    Where's the heat coming from?

  22. #22
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    This has been a common problem over the years. With the battery in the back and the long cables, voltage drop in the system often is the issue. Always do a Voltage drop test of the primary starter side. If the that checks out, do a cranking draw test to see if the starter is
    drawing the current down. Also, the ASD fuse and start fuse in the PDC should be a 25 amp fuse, not a 20 amp. This can cause issues as well. If all that checks out then move onto the battery. When hot, there is often a little delay when hitting the start button, and a little longer crank time. A higher CCA battery often helps with this.

  23. #23
    I will check. Last week at the autocross all starts were good with the cover off and living the hood up between runs.

    Starts were not all good last year with only the hood up.

    More data to come.

  24. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Cragin View Post
    ... Also, the ASD fuse and start fuse in the PDC should be a 25 amp fuse, not a 20 amp. This can cause issues as well.
    Hey Dan, hope all is well.

    Could you please clarify/identify the exact 20amp fuses you're talking about?

    FuseBlock_SideBySide.jpg


    The ASD Starter Relay is labeled clearly, but it's a standard 21911C, which I think is a 10amp.

    Thanks!

  25. #25
    Tech Team

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    The ASD 1 fuse. Change to a 25. We had problems with the 20 amp fuse on several cars.


 

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