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  1. #51
    Quote Originally Posted by 1Willy1 View Post
    Hey guys

    This is probably a silly question to some but if I want to hook up a battery charger to the engine bay , where do I hook up the negative too?

    Some say any bolt is fine but I'd like to know firsure

    Thanks
    Easier to run it off the battery in the back and run the battery tender harness wire into the rear bumper opening (vs having to leave the hood open or propped up which the security system hates). That’s how mine is and I just grab the harness off the battery and plug it into the battery tender whenever it’s going to sit for more than a few days.

  2. #52
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    254

    Sorry, I missed that batter tender part of your post.

    If that is what you are after, battery maintenance. Yes, that is what I do as well. I have the pigtail attached directly to the battery terminals and out the back of the rear bumper. When I unplug it, I just tuck the cable inside the bumper and hit the road.
    Most maintainers come with a 2-3 foot lead (so you can choose how you want to connect to the batter) with terminals. If your did not, you can buy those cables on Amazon/ebay in a myriad of lengths. I picked up a couple of extras for tractors, and other seldom used machines with a starter.
    Last edited by jpmst3; 05-20-2022 at 12:34 PM.

  3. #53
    Thanks guys , on my blue one I go right to the battery, on this one it has a sound system in the back covering the opening and battery , so I'd prefer the engine bat if possible

    What could go wrong If by chance I hook up to a ground that isn't sufficient ?

  4. #54
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    46
    Quote Originally Posted by 1Willy1 View Post
    Thanks guys , on my blue one I go right to the battery, on this one it has a sound system in the back covering the opening and battery , so I'd prefer the engine bat if possible

    What could go wrong If by chance I hook up to a ground that isn't sufficient ?
    I perfer to have the tender in the front of the vehicle in case iam backing out it automaticly disconnect, just tired of draging the tender down the street
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #55
    My power steering issue was actually a cracked steerimg rack, I updated the connections anyways so the power steering system is pretty much bulletproofed , (hope)

    Started refinishing the wheels , I'm not crazy about black wheels, and really hated the red lip, so I had to go on the attack20220601_021440.jpg20220601_021444.jpg20220601_002545.jpg20220601_002537.jpg20220601_002603.jpg

  6. #56
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    North Alabama
    Posts
    774
    Is that the same wheel??

  7. #57
    Same wheel

    I first went with a carbon flash metallic base coat and high gloss clear, but didn't like it as much as I thought

    Then I tried polished lip with carbon flash high gloss face , that was worse

    20220518_020306.jpg20220525_205825.jpg

  8. #58
    Hey guys , just had my power steering lines replaced , the shop I believe cracked the rack right around the threads, it was professionally welded and reinstalled

    Now when the car is not moving , or moving slow, if I turn the wheel left, I get a power steering shudder and vibration, sounds like a muffled machine gun

    Not when I turn right...only left ...

    Before I bring the car back in , any ideas on wgat it could be ?

    Air in the system ? Hose rubbing ? Any help is appreciated

  9. #59
    could be air in the system. I think there's a procedure to bleed it somewhere

  10. #60
    Thanks, when I open the power steering cold it's nearly empty, the dipstick doesn't even touch the liquid

    I'm assuming this is too low?

    Do you know the correct way to read it ?

  11. #61
    There should be a dip stick attached to the cap. It should read full when engine is cold.

  12. #62
    Thanks appreciate it

    New piece of the puzzle for anyone who has any ideas

    It only seems to happen when the car gets very hot, like super hot outside, driving for a couple hours, ac on pushing the coolant Temps higher then usual

    Once car cools down it stops

    Is belt slippage a possibility?

    When the hose broke it sprayed fluid all over the engine bay ....

  13. #63
    This can be many things from head gasket issue to air in system/low on coolant. I would start w/basics (leaks, checking for airflow restrictions, fan coming on, air in system, bleeding, coolant level) to progressively harder to treat (thermostat, water pump, radiator, and head gasket). Servicing all above is fairly easy w/stock car, good access to everything. I'm not sure how your belt/bracket setup impedes access to components.

  14. #64
    Thanks , the car is supercharged so it's harder to access I think

    The shop is leaning towards the belt slipping due to the fluid sprayed all over when the power steering failed

    Not getting any white smoke or loss of coolant, I checked my other viper and coolant is at same level

    I'm.goimg to order a belt and I'll update u guys how it goes

  15. #65
    My power steering failed again , they said the weld cracked , it lasted only a couple weeks

    Really pissed off and going to have a talk with the shop

    Does anyone know what the average time it would take for a steering rack to be removed and reinstalled ?

    (Also looking for a new/used rack if anyone has one )
    Last edited by 1Willy1; 08-13-2022 at 02:24 AM.

  16. #66
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    AZ, CA, VA
    Posts
    351
    Good god what a nightmare. Best of luck getting everything sorted out.

  17. #67
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    10
    Congrats, I picked up a silver SC Viper recently as well. What size are your wheels? Do you happen to have any pics of the refinished wheels installed? Trying to get ideas for mine.


 
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