Version 3 of the SRT Viper sub box

[Steve M]

This is a good thread, for those of you that don't know the G3 sub-box can be an issue when trying to replace a bad speaker or upgrading to a better sub-bass speaker.
The speaker and box are unique and need to be replaced as an assembly, they don't make a replacement speaker that works and the box cannot be modified to accept another bigger or better speaker.

Hope this helps.

Assuming the Gen 3 and 4 sub boxes are the same (I can't see why they would be any different), it can be modified to work with a different 6.5" sub, but the results aren't that great. I removed the funky port, sealed it, and used an MDF speaker ring to fit a 6.5" CDT audio subwoofer in the factory location (it was slightly taller/deeper). Everything fits behind the bulkhead just like stock. Even powered with an aftermarket amplifier (350 watts available on the sub channel), it just doesn't push enough air to overcome the bass note of the engine while it is running. I actually have it wired so I can either use the factory sub location or the single 10" sub I have in a box in the hatch...it's nice to have options.

[billseast]

The box in the first post and the website is the boxes i make. They have good sound but i want to have more so i will be putting a sub in the passenger floor also. If i could get a break from all the sub boxes for customers i can get started on it. I had a pioneer 8" in the bulkhead and it was better then the fosgate because the fosgate needs more airspace. My box vers stock box.

[jvm728]

Do you have a trunk viper sub enclosure for sale?

[IndyRon]

The box in the first post and the website is the boxes i make. They have good sound but i want to have more so i will be putting a sub in the passenger floor also. If i could get a break from all the sub boxes for customers i can get started on it. I had a pioneer 8" in the bulkhead and it was better then the fosgate because the fosgate needs more airspace. My box vers stock box.

From your pictures of the installed box, it appears that you lose the midrange driver mounted above the sub. Is this in fact the case or can that driver be kept?

[PaulP]

Indyron, there is no factory midrange driver above the factory sub, its a factory port for the factory sub box, most guys put a sealed box vs ported in.

[Steve M]

Indyron, there is no factory midrange driver above the factory sub, its a factory port for the factory sub box, most guys put a sealed box vs ported in.

Yep...the top spot is a very oddly shaped port that snakes around through the sub box itself.

[IndyRon]

Gotcha...duh! Thanks. I should have looked closer! Any chance of getting a JL audio sub in your box, Billseast? Kinda partial to them.

[NMviperguy]

Sorry for the multi threads. I will try to simplify the item list.
1/2" spacer. http://m.ebay.com/itm/290901573060
1" spacer. http://m.ebay.com/itm/281337540959
JL 6w3v3-4 6.5" sub. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002QC...OHL&ref=plSrch

Hope it works as well for you as it does for me!

[jvm728]

NMviperguy-

Your recommendation is with the OE BOX OR THE BillsEast box?

[NMviperguy]

NMviperguy-

Your recommendation is with the OE BOX OR THE BillsEast box?

I used the stock box with spacers. Didn't know at the time there were aftermarket boxes for ours cars

[billseast]

The stock box is made out of plastic and it will flex with a more powerful sub. My box is made out of fiberglass and will not flex. When i box flexes it distorts the sound. I just built a box for a 18" kicker that uses 10,000 watts. the box had to made out of 1" thick MDF and fiberglass on all the seems to keep the box from falling apart. I have 2 10" image dynamic subs in my daily driver car. They hit 113 dbs but its just not enough so i just traded a sub box for a 12" sundown sub. People are getting up to 160dbs with one 12".

NMviperguy-

Your recommendation is with the OE BOX OR THE BillsEast box?

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I can build boxes for anything.

Do you have a trunk viper sub enclosure for sale?

[jvm728]

I need a JL W3 8" or 10" sub in my viper. Don't care where it goes. Whatever is easiest. Ready..... GO!

[NMviperguy]

The stock box is made out of plastic and it will flex with a more powerful sub. My box is made out of fiberglass and will not flex. When i box flexes it distorts the sound. I just built a box for a 18" kicker that uses 10,000 watts. the box had to made out of 1" thick MDF and fiberglass on all the seems to keep the box from falling apart. I have 2 10" image dynamic subs in my daily driver car. They hit 113 dbs but its just not enough so i just traded a sub box for a 12" sundown sub. People are getting up to 160dbs with one 12".



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I can build boxes for anything.

I'm not trying to take away from billseast sales at all, heck i brought life back to this thread for you. I do agree, a strong box is always a good thing and I obviously can't speak to the strength of the stock, I've only had a viper for a month. I can say that the spacers are also bolted to the bulk head which I would assume would add to its strength. I think it's awesome that people step up and add aftermarket items for our cars even as they age. What works for me may not work for the next, but I think it's great to have options, and I'm honestly not worried about warping my car with a subwoofer

[billseast]

It would have to go into the passenger floor on in the trunk. If you have a coupe the trunk area would be best. But in a convertible we have to use the stock area or passenger side floor. I'm all caught up on boxes right now so i will see what i can work up in the floor area.

I need a JL W3 8" or 10" sub in my viper. Don't care where it goes. Whatever is easiest. Ready..... GO!

[Hotrodder00]

I'd be interested in what you come up with. I have a jl 10w3 sitting in the garage and a 8w3 in the STi that is impressive for an 8" sub, but may need to be upgraded.

[Vprbite]

Are any of you fiberglass, speaker box gurus doing a bulkhead swap out yet? I would jump on that in a heartbeat.

In the between the seats bulkhead Gen III, I would think a really nice 8 would sound good, stereo guys agree? Or do you have to go ten, and will one even fit? I would think a ten would overpower everything else, necessitating some creative installations and I wouldn't want to change any door panels or have the speaker sticking way far out. I don't however, mind the center sub sticking out a bit. Especially painted body color to match.

But if any of you fiberglass studs out there are wanting to get into the bulkhead swap business, I am sure there would be some interested parties. Put me on the list!!!

Thanks for your input, stereo gurus.

[slowhatch]

The stock "sound" system is the single aspect I hate most about my car. But I can't bring myself to add weight to it, the struggle is real

[NMviperguy]

I'm not too worried about a few pounds. Eventually I will also add sound deadening, read in a past thread about roof flashing working just as well as dynaliner as long as you don't get the asphalt based flashing. Should also help with heat so a win win in my book!

[billseast]

The problem with that is the air space you need for the sub to work correct would make it to big for the bulkhead. You have it easy you have a coupe just need to put a box in the back.

Are any of you fiberglass, speaker box gurus doing a bulkhead swap out yet? I would jump on that in a heartbeat.

In the between the seats bulkhead Gen III, I would think a really nice 8 would sound good, stereo guys agree? Or do you have to go ten, and will one even fit? I would think a ten would overpower everything else, necessitating some creative installations and I wouldn't want to change any door panels or have the speaker sticking way far out. I don't however, mind the center sub sticking out a bit. Especially painted body color to match.

But if any of you fiberglass studs out there are wanting to get into the bulkhead swap business, I am sure there would be some interested parties. Put me on the list!!!

Thanks for your input, stereo gurus.

[billseast]

That was the first thing i did when i got my viper. Did the whole floor boards and bulkhead.

I'm not too worried about a few pounds. Eventually I will also add sound deadening, read in a past thread about roof flashing working just as well as dynaliner as long as you don't get the asphalt based flashing. Should also help with heat so a win win in my book!

[NMviperguy]

That was the first thing i did when i got my viper. Did the whole floor boards and bulkhead.

Did you notice a difference in both heat and sound? Did you do full interior?

[billseast]

I took the cats out also it helped with the heat soak and road noise

Did you notice a difference in both heat and sound? Did you do full interior?

[Vprbite]

The problem with that is the air space you need for the sub to work correct would make it to big for the bulkhead. You have it easy you have a coupe just need to put a box in the back.

Yes, it would have to be easily removable though because I bring my guitar a lot when I go places. What about putting 2 8s in the bulkhead?

[Steve M]

Yes, it would have to be easily removable though because I bring my guitar a lot when I go places. What about putting 2 8s in the bulkhead?

How about 2 8"s in the hatch?

I understand your desire, but you can make an easily removable sub box that goes in the hatch. It flat out isn't worth trying to do what you are suggesting when there's a better, easier solution.

[billseast]

The other idea i had for the coupe is to cut the section of the trunk next to the battery. Then i could just build a box that would slide in and hang next to the battery.

Yes, it would have to be easily removable though because I bring my guitar a lot when I go places. What about putting 2 8s in the bulkhead?