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  1. #1

    Fascia Removal Update And Comments

    There are some fascia threads about removing the fascia and bumper as a single unit. I just used that method. It's much easier and quicker than removing just the fascia. Search and read those threads. No Xmas tree pins to deal with except the broken/missing one you'll find when you remove the fascia asst. Napa has the sizes you need to replace them and the ones under the headlights are no problem anymore.
    DSC_0387.jpg

    The 3 piece shroud over the radiator: The 2 ends are attached with Xmas trees. One for each end. PITA to reach and remove. I used a small tooth hacksaw blade to cut the stems (carefully). A wide coping saw blade works well too. I replaced them with 1/4 x20 x 1" body bolts from Tractor Supply and they come with a 1" washer. Put a speed nut where the tree pins were. Now simple to remove and install.. Cushion the plastic/metal washer interface if you want. I used some leather I had layin' around the shop.
    DSC_0394.JPG

    My Viper is completely stock and did not have nylon lock nuts. So if you don't see any, just steel nuts, you're ok. Loosen the 2 nuts (rt and lft) thru the hood opening as instructed. When you come to the 2 pairs of nuts right and left thru the "crosshairs" loosen the outside nuts only The inside nuts stay tight. Period. The nuts on my 2002 are 14mm. I've read 13 and 15 too Maybe the change with different years?
    DSC_0389.JPG

    People asked about shims in one thread. The few shims I saw were large and fixed to the frame plates. These plates have large shims are fixed to the frame horns and also the back of the bumper/fascia assy. No small shims to drop loose. Shims are easy to make out of any thin material or thicker metal stock or you can buy them at Napa or any body shop supply. Cut to size, drill the hole, and use tin snips to cut to the hole (2 cuts). Hacksaw for thicker metal stock. All this applies to my 2002 RT10.
    DSC_0392.jpg

    I removed my fascia with the car on the deck....put a furney pad all the way across under fascia. After gently prying the end away it came loose and was already safely on the pad. The assembly weighs about 50 lbs. Having a helper doesn't hurt. The groove towards the bottom of the fascia (that goes all around) is a good break point if you're just repairing scratches underneath. Lastly, my body guy was delighted the fascia and bumper were one. Gave him ideal points to mount the whole thing on his work rack. Don't hesitate to remove your fascia. It's a piece of cake.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    Ok I'm going to ask, why have you pulled the fascia off the car? Is it to re-spray it or some other reason?

  3. #3
    Yes, guess I overlooked that. Nasty encounter with a parking bumper and misc scratches underneath from previous owner. And just to take a look back there. GS

  4. #4
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    I've removed my fascia so many times I've got it down to about 10 minutes. But I've never considered that method. Very creative. How long does it take?

  5. #5
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    I took a bit more off than you did LOL
    IMG-20180423-WA0015.jpg

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by dave6666 View Post
    I've removed my fascia so many times I've got it down to about 10 minutes. But I've never considered that method. Very creative. How long does it take?


    I'm not the creative one I'm just passing along my experience with this method. I don't think I'd want to break your speed record. Not counting prep I'd say I'd get 'er done in 15- 20 minutes

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Fatboy 18 View Post
    I took a bit more off than you did LOL
    IMG-20180423-WA0015.jpg
    Man, serious tear-down. You must have a lot of pix and notes. Getting everything lined up and re-setting the head lights. Way past me. Nothing like experience tho.

  8. #8
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    I had tech help from the two D's putting everything back together (Dave6666 and GTS Dean). There were some cursing moments putting the fascia Fasteners back on lol But it all came out ok in the end.
    IMG-20180516-WA0005.jpg

  9. #9
    Yeh, Dean's old thread was my roadmap to the removal process. Even if you take just the fascia off you still have to take all the wheel well screws out and the bottom bolts. So 4 more nuts gets the whole thing off with no Xmas tree hassles. It seemed like a no-brainer. Getting my front clip back tomorrow. Funny tho, with it off I can finally use my Race Ramps.

  10. #10
    I need to replace one of my A/C hoses. This will be helpful. Thanks very much for sharing.

  11. #11
    Hey there, I am looking to shim my frame to core support to take care of a driver side end facia gap. How is the core support attached to the frame rails? I have the facia off and have climbed around a little with a flashlight. I don't see any fasteners right away.

  12. #12
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    It pins through the radiator base, screws into the side of the upper frame rails, both directly and with the wheel well brackets, and then the tubular braces.

    Note that if you have an ABS car the driver side screws to frame rail are hidden behind the ABS module. Also note that I've converted my car from factory sheet metal screws to body bolts via riven nuts in to the frame, so the fasteners in my pics look slightly different than factory.

    Also note that there are many more front fascia shim points than most tutorials show. And they ALL interact with one another i.e. move one to make something good then something else goes whacko.


    Radiator base:

    006.jpg

    Side of upper frame rail inside fascia:

    018.jpg

    Wheelwell:

    Picture 058.jpg

    Tubular braces:

    025a.jpg

  13. #13
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    Thanks for posting refreshed photo embeds Dave!


 

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