The cracks all seem to form at the bushing barrel area near the transition to the inner wishbone ends. Good lighting, reasonable cleaning of these areas and wheels-off, clear inspection photos should be required.
The cracks all seem to form at the bushing barrel area near the transition to the inner wishbone ends. Good lighting, reasonable cleaning of these areas and wheels-off, clear inspection photos should be required.
Here are pics of my front 2 arms still on the car, 1 is much worse then the other. With a camera or phone to take photos, you do not need ramps or taking the wheels off to check.
I have located and had delivered 2 used replacements which are due to be fitted this week. Delivery times from ordering were 7 days (from Germany) and 9 days (from the USA)
I previously heard horror stories of 10 week delivery from America, so I was very pleasantly surprised. I got 2 good used arms with what look to be perfect stock bushes and hopefully good balljoints for half price of new arms.
I know it's a good idea to replace with poly bushes but that would be too much expense for me at the moment to do all 8 arms. Now I know what to look for, I'll keep a regular check on them.
left front A arm.jpg
right front A arm.jpg
Some or all of the Poly Bushings are installed into to metal bushings in the Control Arm , which seems a bit counter intuitive given they rust and expand.....
Hopefully someone can shed some light on that setup ???
No the metal bushing gets pressed out
Thanks for the heads up !
I was thinking of a supplier who use's Delrin Bushings but like this option better .
And here we are again Ladies and gentlemen! This time a Gen IV viper lower front control arm. received_795070714849959.jpg
If someone made them in chromoly tubing it could be a good seller........
Certainly alarming to see that.
Mark, does this Viper have any "pertinent history" ?
Thanks for posting !
Same crack as on my old gen 2.
THE IGNORE FEATURE WORKS, TRY IT...
Mitch - you're from WI or MI, right? Salted/chem-treated roads there too. I haven't had rubber bushings in my lower wishbones since about '02 (I went to monoballs) and uppers since about '20 (urethane replacements). Both are using the OE galvanized outer bushing sleeves. I run it hard, but not through deicing chemical puddles or potholed roads. And, rarely in inclement weather.
Pegasus. 5/8", wide series, teflon lined. The sleeves may need a very slight hone to achieve the correct interference fit. I had a press adapter machined to seat them to the correct depth. Spacers/cones have to be machined for correct centering in the frame ears.
Last edited by GTS Dean; 06-10-2022 at 10:47 AM.
The problem here is the sleeves rusting and expanding causing the aluminium arm to fail. So fitting anything that includes the use of the metal sleeve is not a fix.
True. However the monoballs are a separate, but related subject.
Totally agree with you, Mark. My general rule says abort if sleet, snow, salt, or sand is/has been on the road...along with cold temps...all of which can occur here in Indy...tending to shorten the driving season somewhat.
Actually pretty easy to do. I needed a set of control arms for another race car project - special configuration - long with clearance for very deep backspace wide wheels. I built a set out of black pipe to verify all dimensions, then transferred that to a set of jigs. My son then welded up a pair out of chrome moly using the jigs I provided. If and when we can no longer find factory pieces for our Vipers, fabrication is always an option. Viper control arms would be fairly simple for a good company with good CAD capability and precision tooling to fabricate. A little heavier than stock and not factory original, but plenty strong.
Corvette 56 control arms 1.jpg
"You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Pappy again."
Those are purdy.
Hello, bump on this thread, I have now been informed of another UK Viper with cracked Arms at the bushing area, so that's 5 UK Vipers now!
This thread is a great example of why the Forums need to stay LIVE.
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