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  1. #1
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    Another GEN II stereo thread

    Ok so, I know theres more then a few threads on stereo "upgrades" here on the forums, and I have been looking them over. More often then not, I find myself getting more confused then gaining an understanding on what people have done and what I'm thinking about doing. I currently have an iSimple iPod adapter in it which is working fine. However, It would be nice to get bluetooth and just update the system overall. Growing up my dad was a huge audiophile, even starting his own shortlived speaker company. The stereo in his car was worth more then the car! Unfortunately, all his teachings have been forgotten at this point. Anyhoo, heres what I was looking at doing. I'd love to replace the head unit, all speakers, and the subwoofer. When I was younger, my dad upgraded the stereo in one of my cars with an Alpine headunit and JL audio speakers. The sound was great!

    Heres the head unit I was looking at...
    https://www.alpine-usa.com/product/cde-175bt

    I like this unit because of its features, specifically the ability to change the color of the display!

    Heres the speakers I was looking at...
    https://www.jlaudio.com/collections/...-systems-99034

    and woofer...
    https://www.jlaudio.com/collections/...-woofers-99033

    Heres where some expertise is needed. Would these work in my '01? What would need to be done to make them work? Do I need to replace the stock amplifier? For the love of god, help! LOL
    Last edited by City; 06-16-2021 at 09:56 AM.

  2. #2
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    Hey Bob,

    I am always glad if someone starts a new thread on this topic, even if there are plenty existing

    Maybe you have seen my threads as I have done quite a substantial overhaul on the stereo in my RT/10. Looking at your plan, I would like to just give you my opinion/some general hints on this. So, here it comes:

    Yes, it will work. However you will have to make some modifications to the cabling, with or without using the existing amps.

    If someone starts this endeavour, he or she is usually looking for an audible improvement over the stock system. This, however, will not be very notable with just installing a new head-unit and the replacement of stock speakers.

    In my opinion, the key items in a nutshell that will dramatically improve the sound at this point are:

    A. adding a real subwoofer (incl. an appropriate amp)
    B. adding a good DSP to the system that allows for proper EQ and time alignment

    Happy to provide more information/help, if wanted. Have fun!!
    Last edited by My98RT10; 06-16-2021 at 01:24 AM.

  3. #3
    I've also gone through this process as well.

    The 6inch speakers will fit perfect in the doors. You either need an adapter or you will need to make your own mounting holes though as the factory holes wont line up with the new speaker (at least in my 98). I just drilled new holes in the lip that holds the speaker and used the mounts that came with the speaker. Don't recall their name but they are basically folded over metal clips with screw threads.

    If you are planning on putting those subs in the rear factory spots, forget about it. They aren't sealed back there so those subs wont sound good like that. What I did was put more mid range speakers in that spot and built a small enclosure (that is flush with the storage compartment (removed the spare tire) and put my 5 channel amp there and the sub.

    Get a 5 channel amp and run all new speaker wires. This helps in two ways. Allows you to keep the stock wiring in the car if you ever needed to go back to stock but allows you to use better wiring and to direct wire as you wish. You can either wire directly to the head unit (would only need a 1 or 2 channel amp for the sub) or wire the head to the amp and your speakers to that. Going to and amp will make it sound much better than direct to head. Head units just don't produce enough power for good clean sound.

    Their is not an adapter for the factory head unit to plug into an aftermarket unit. As such you need to tap into the power, ground and ACC wires. DO NOT forget to tap power into the antenna amp as well. I like to use the connectors that clamp over the existing wire and you can use a spade connector to plug into them. This way it's easy to remove if necessary.

    If you aren't worried about added weight put some sound deadening down. I put some in the rear of my car which really helped bring down some of the highway drone sound I had with my Borla system in place. I've since gone Corsa and it's all gone now.

    20160702_170532.jpg
    20160702_104338.jpg
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    20180228_220122.jpg
    Last edited by 98RedGTS; 06-16-2021 at 10:43 AM.

  4. #4
    You'll see in the above picture that I started with 6.5 speakers for the door. Hated it as it didn't sit flush and was wedging to the dash kickpanel. Pulled them and when with the 6 inch ones you posted.

  5. #5
    I did similar changes to my Gen I and here is the little bit of help I can provide.

    For the tweeters in the door, they bolt in to the rear of the door panel. I measured the diameter of the hole in the door panel and found new ones that were very close to that same diameter. When putting the new ones in, I had to sand the outside plastic so they would fit in the door panel. I sanded just enough so that they were a snug fit in from the back and then made a bracket to bolt them in to the factory mounting point. Courtesy Crutchfield, here is a picture of the mounting on the rear of the door panel.
    frontdoortweeterspeaker.jpg

    For the sub between the seats. I am not sure how it is mounted in a Gen II, but my Gen I has a plastic housing that is bolted to the rear frame/bulkhead of the car. Once the interior trim was removed, the plastic housing could be removed. Typically subs perform best in some sort of enclosure. The plastic housing in the Gen I did not have a back. The back was created by the flat surface it bolted to on the bulkhead. But it didn't really seal well to make an actual enclosure. So I created a back for the plastic housing using fiberglass. This way the subs had an actual sealed enclosure.

  6. #6
    trunk_1.jpg

    The stereo in my car was done by the pervious owner. I did swap out the head unit as it did not have Blue Tooth and I wanted that. It does have a 5 ch amp but the old stereo did not have a dedicated sub-out and was Y'd from the rear ch. The new head-unit addressed that as well.

  7. #7
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    My stereo part replacements, in order, with opinion. Car is a GTS which is a much better sound theater than a RT.

    * Installed Alpine CDA9885 head. Results, 1 out of 3 impressed.
    ** Then installed Alpine SPR-17S speakers in doors. 2 out of 3 impressed.
    *** Then installed another set of Alpine SPR-17S speakers in trunk. 1 out of 3 impressed even though OEMs were toast.
    **** Then installed Alpine CDE-163BT head, X-A90V Amp (bridged to front doors), JL Audio CP108LGW3v3 sub (deleted factory rear subs), and completely rewired car with aftermarket power, speaker, and audio cabling. 3 out of 3 impressed.

    In summary, the amp and speakers matter more than the head. Use a cheap head, a good amp, and good speakers.

  8. #8
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    Hey Bob,

    what's the game plan now? Have you started to tear it apart?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by My98RT10 View Post
    Hey Bob,

    what's the game plan now? Have you started to tear it apart?
    Not yet. Just trying to put a game plan together. It'll be a winter project for sure.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01sapphirebob View Post
    Not yet. Just trying to put a game plan together. It'll be a winter project for sure.
    Take your time! Just make sure to keep us posted Thanks!

  11. #11
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    My car has a lot of upgraded stereo equipment but was done years ago. I think it even has a Flux Capacitor in the back! Have had the car a month now and haven’t really assessed how it sounds! I will probably update the head unit to something with Apple Car Play. All speakers have also been replaced.

    00E768A3-66CD-4579-A661-3A10705F0563.jpg

    DBE896A1-EC57-4ADC-8957-E1AA2CB62DFC.jpg

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by My98RT10 View Post
    Hey Bob,

    what's the game plan now? Have you started to tear it apart?
    Alright 98…think I have a new game plan. Think id like to start by just swapping the head unit for now. Was on a road trip this weekend and the iTrip I have in my car is just a PITA at this point. Ive also decided that CD’s arent really going yo be a priority. So I have a new head unit in mind… https://www.alpine-usa.com/product/ute-73bt

    What do I need to do to get this working in my ‘01.
    Last edited by 01sapphirebob; 10-22-2021 at 09:11 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01sapphirebob View Post
    ...What do I need to do to get this working in my ‘01.
    I assume, that is a question? Not much, you just need to fabricate the infamous DIN adapter to connect power and the line-out.

  14. #14
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    If anyone of you wants to sell an OEM head unit for a 98 GTS, please let me know. I have some aftermarket thing in it, it probably sounds as terrible as the original OEM unit, but as I'd like to keep my interior stock, I'm looking for an OEM unit.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by My98RT10 View Post
    I assume, that is a question? Not much, you just need to fabricate the infamous DIN adapter to connect power and the line-out.
    Yea, it was a question. Lol. Ok…first Ive gotta find the radio in question. Ill report back when that happens.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by James View Post
    If anyone of you wants to sell an OEM head unit for a 98 GTS, please let me know. I have some aftermarket thing in it, it probably sounds as terrible as the original OEM unit, but as I'd like to keep my interior stock, I'm looking for an OEM unit.
    If its the same Alpine unit as fitted in a 2000 Viper I have one in working order. Make me a sensible offer.

  17. #17
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    Well…that escalated quickly. Lol

    BCFB807E-E4D1-47AE-97F8-AB689CD7E7CA.jpg


    Stopped at a couple stores today and the last place I went actually had something Alpine in stock. Lol. To make a long story short I ended up walking out with the above unit. Now the fun begins.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by My98RT10 View Post
    you just need to fabricate the infamous DIN adapter to connect power and the line-out.
    Any idea which connector to buy? I've looked several places but none of them look right.

  19. #19
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    I was looking at that exact unit. Keep us posted on the install

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlashFyre View Post
    I was looking at that exact unit. Keep us posted on the install
    Stay tuned!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fatboy 18 View Post
    If its the same Alpine unit as fitted in a 2000 Viper I have one in working order. Make me a sensible offer.
    I'll check and send you a PM ;-)

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01sapphirebob View Post
    Stay tuned!
    I'll post some pics later but my Alpine was quite a pain to get all the wires stuffed in with the limited space behind the unit. Had to use 90* adapters on all of the RCA connectors that go to the amp as otherwise they would hit the firewall. That in turn blocked the antenna jack on the back of the unit albeit I never use AM/FM anyway. I also had to pull the factory brace out which is only held in by a few sheet metal screws, but the screw on the passenger side was wedged in behind some of the HVAC duct work and it took every right angle ratcheting phillips screwdriver that I own to get it out.

    Referencing my component rating list I posted earlier in this thread, the head unit is a good start to better sound. But if you're like most people the bliss of the new head unit will pass and you'll want more. Like better speakers and better amp. My point in mentioning that is, be sure and keep your long term plans in mind to cover anything going foward so you don't have to take the car apart twice. Ask me how I know all of that...

    This is how snug I had to get the cabling to the back of the unit to get it to fit. Maybe because it was CD capable and yours isn't it won't have that issue.

    20180113_153251.jpg
    Last edited by dave6666; 10-07-2021 at 09:31 AM. Reason: add pic

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Omahawg View Post
    Any idea which connector to buy? I've looked several places but none of them look right.
    I am 99% sure it is 8 pin DIN 270 connector. The missing 1% is due to the fact, that I cannot get to it to verify as everything is installed.

  24. #24
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    Definitively a PITA to get everything lined up in that compartment...

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave6666 View Post
    I'll post some pics later but my Alpine was quite a pain to get all the wires stuffed in with the limited space behind the unit. Had to use 90* adapters on all of the RCA connectors that go to the amp as otherwise they would hit the firewall. That in turn blocked the antenna jack on the back of the unit albeit I never use AM/FM anyway. I also had to pull the factory brace out which is only held in by a few sheet metal screws, but the screw on the passenger side was wedged in behind some of the HVAC duct work and it took every right angle ratcheting phillips screwdriver that I own to get it out.

    Referencing my component rating list I posted earlier in this thread, the head unit is a good start to better sound. But if you're like most people the bliss of the new head unit will pass and you'll want more. Like better speakers and better amp. My point in mentioning that is, be sure and keep your long term plans in mind to cover anything going foward so you don't have to take the car apart twice. Ask me how I know all of that...

    This is how snug I had to get the cabling to the back of the unit to get it to fit. Maybe because it was CD capable and yours isn't it won't have that issue.

    20180113_153251.jpg
    Thanks for the photos dave!


 
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