Soon To Be Owner What To Buy

[lewkskywalker]

First of all, I want to introduce myself and apologize in advance if this is the wrong place to post this.

My name is Dan and I live in Metro Detroit. I have wanted a viper since I was a kid and FINALLY I’m ready to buy one. I’ve been doing my research but would LOVE some input. Additionally, if you’re local to metro Detroit, I’d love to connect.

I’m really looking for the iconic blue with white racing stripes Gen II.

My questions are as follows:

1.) If I’d like to supercharge or twin turbo and am looking for 1000 WHP+, should I look for a 1996-1999 GTS because of the forged pistons? Why do people call the 2000+ MY crempuffs and should I avoid them?
2.) better to supercharge or twin turbo?
3.) better to buy something someone has already done the work to or have it done after purchase?
4.) anything else I should keep in mind when selecting a model year?

All input is GREATLY appreciated as I have tremendous respect for your knowledge and experience.

Thanks again!

[Ronin47]

I would buy one with alittle or no mods on it. Drive the vehicle and get to know it first before you add more power to it.

[lewkskywalker]

I would buy one with alittle or no mods on it. Drive the vehicle and get to know it first before you add more power to it.

Thanks for the input. How much more will I spend by doing those mods (Paxton supercharger for example) myself?

[01sapphirebob]

Theres always a few questions to ask yourself when you start Viper shopping.

1. What color do I want? This will narrow your search greatly since you mentioned a GEN II (It appears you have your eyes on a B/W?)
2. What body style do I want? (GTS or RT/10)
3. Do I want ABS?

These three questions (not necessarily in that order) will help you find the GEN II you're looking for. You mentioned you're in the Detroit area, MCVO is an extremely active club. Hopefully one of them will chime in here but, see if they'll let you stop by one of their events. Look around and take notes.

As kinda mentioned above, get a car that has little to no mods on it. Things like exhaust, headers, hi-flow cats would be fine. I'd be a little worried about a car that has had the engine opened up. You don't want to take on someone elses headaches. Good luck and good hunting!

[Viperenvy]

Buy one with a quality & verifiable build.

With current values, buying something under 50,000 miles and you see a 20%+ drop in value on your purchase.

If you do buy, buy as high a mileage you can get for the least lose.

A year ago, you’d still be making money today.

Today, originality at all grades is getting a premium on Gen II GTS, ACR, & GT2.

In the end, its your money.

[srtoad4]

Buy one lightly modded, you'll save a ton of money as Viper parts are not cheap and have the "Viper Tax" on them. Basic Paxton bolt-on setup will run you $8-$9k plus install, and you'll want headers ($2k) and exhaust ($1300) to go along with it. Figure $15-$18k said and done, installed, for a supercharger setup with exhaust, and that'll only get you to the 550 wheel-ish power level. Anymore than that, you'll have to get into aftermarket fueling, standalone ECU, clutch/driveline upgrades, etc etc. Going down that rabbit hole gets very expensive, very fast. Better to buy one sorted and done, paying .50 on the dollar for mods, or less.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

I’m really looking for the iconic blue with white racing stripes Gen II.

My questions are as follows:

1.) If I’d like to supercharge or twin turbo and am looking for 1000 WHP+, should I look for a 1996-1999 GTS

If you succeed in snagging a low-mile 1996 or even 97 GTS B/W, Congrats.

NOW: DON'T ruin the value of these specific collectible cars by adding a motor-killing blower or turbos. Just stick a 3:73 rear gear in, and PRETEND the resulting wheelspin is from a blower, at 5% of the cost, and NO depreciation. Save the 3:07 gear for originality.

Good Luck, and remember: "Please Dont F-With 1992, 96Gts, 98GT2"

[lewkskywalker]

Buy one with a quality & verifiable build.

With current values, buying something under 50,000 miles and you see a 20%+ drop in value on your purchase.

If you do buy, buy as high a mileage you can get for the least lose.

.

Not sure what you mean here? Buying something under 50k miles and I’ll see a 20%+ DROP in value on my purchase?

[lewkskywalker]

How much power gain will the 3:73 rear gear get me? And do the super chargers and turbos really kill the motor? I thought the 97-99 blocks and pistons were relatively bullet proof?

Also, not TOO worried about depreciation as I’ll be keeping this car forever. Plus if I buy one already modded, someone else will have suffered the depreciation.

[lewkskywalker]

If you succeed in snagging a low-mile 1996 or even 97 GTS B/W, Congrats.

NOW: DON'T ruin the value of these specific collectible cars by adding a motor-killing blower or turbos. Just stick a 3:73 rear gear in, and PRETEND the resulting wheelspin is from a blower, at 5% of the cost, and NO depreciation. Save the 3:07 gear for originality.

Good Luck, and remember: "Please Dont F-With 1992, 96Gts, 98GT2"

How much power gain will the 3:73 rear gear get me? And do the super chargers and turbos really kill the motor? I thought the 97-99 blocks and pistons were relatively bullet proof?

Also, not TOO worried about depreciation as I’ll be keeping this car forever. Plus if I buy one already modded, someone else will have suffered the depreciation.

And… why not mess with those models you mentioned above?

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

How much power gain will the 3:73 rear gear get me? And do the super chargers and turbos really kill the motor? I thought the 97-99 blocks and pistons were relatively bullet proof?

Also, not TOO worried about depreciation as I’ll be keeping this car forever. Plus if I buy one already modded, someone else will have suffered the depreciation.

3:73 Does not "Gain" power, just re-gears the power you have. Accelerates 22% quicker, as if you HAD gained 100HP And brakes faster too


Also not so much about ongoing depreciation, but on those 3 models its about the APPRECIATION your estate could realize if you stay original, and dont F with them.

[Mbccenter]

I will be listing a B&W from a member soon...

[lewkskywalker]

3:73 Does not "Gain" power, just re-gears the power you have. Accelerates 22% quicker, as if you HAD gained 100HP And brakes faster too


Also not so much about ongoing depreciation, but on those 3 models its about the APPRECIATION your estate could realize if you stay original, and dont F with them.

What if I supercharge AND regear to a 3.73? That sounds amazing.

Also, how much does a 3.73 regear cost, parts and labor?

Thanks!!

[DublinOH]

Screen Shot 2021-06-18 at 4.05.49 PM.jpg

This for obvious reasons.....Keep it in the family.

[lewkskywalker]

Screen Shot 2021-06-18 at 4.05.49 PM.jpg

This for obvious reasons.....Keep it in the family.

Wow. Just wow.

[TheMadMachinist]

How about some track lessons.

[lewkskywalker]

How about some track lessons.

I’m totally down! When are where?

[TheMadMachinist]

That would depend on where you are located.

Always best to fix the nut behind the wheel first.lol

[Fatboy 18]

Hello, well lets get back to some basics here.
The early Gen2 cars had forged pistons and a lumpy cam. Roe Racing made a supercharger for these cars. The later Gen 2 cars 2000-2002 the pistons were made with a silicone injection producing tighter tolerances between piston and sleeve, also the cam was changed. You can fit and run a supercharger on these cars up to a 6lb pulley, but if you really want high boost over 6lb then swapping out the pistons back to the forged pistons is the way most people go.
Next comes the Engine management system, you will need to find someone who actually knows what their doing rather than garages that say they can do the tune for you but then come unstuck, when they get into it!
You also need to ask yourself what the intended application is for? Straight line drag racing or Track (Circuit) use? If you intend to tour with the car your fuel economy will suck!
At least in the USA your Gas price is a hell of a lot cheaper than we pay the other side of the pond.
Next will be the other items needed to go along with the supercharger or turbos......BRAKES OEM Gen 2 brakes are not great if you Circuit the car, they can overheat quickly and the pedal can drop to the floor from boiled fluid so you will need to upgrade the fluid to a higher boiling point such as motul 600 rbf, Next is a full caliper and disc upgrade, the list of things goes on.

Cooling is also another issue, so before you know it if you are paying for parts and a garage to do this work for you, you may as well double up on the price of the car! Some people also fit water meth injection too to help.

Now a much better way to save some cash is to find a car that has already been modified with the parts you want on it. "Stock" early Gen 2 B/W are the Premium car that a lot of the collectors are looking for, so if you buy one and then mod it you will loose money all the way down the line.

Look for a supercharged Viper already done, the previous owner will have spent a ton of cash which will save you the headaches, but make sure you get all paperwork to find out who and how it was fitted, even if you don't find a B/W car with it fitted it will be cheaper to wrap the car in the colour you want than wreck a stock car and fit everything.

Paxton turbo's was another option offered to Gen 2 Vipers.

Getting the car to stop safely would be my first upgrade before fitting any speed add ons.

[TheMadMachinist]

As far as Gen 2 cars are concerned if you have your heart set on a Paxton setup. Be aware that the weak point is the crank snout. I sure I am not the only one to snap one in two. I do believe it's not the norm but it can happen.